Khmer Rogue Regime- The Dark History Of Cambodia!

This was one of the most depressing days of our Cambodia trip. Being fully aware of what was in store for us, we were still taken aback and literally had tears in our eyes after S 21 prison and the killing fields memorial visit we could not digest the brutality and level of inhumanity that people could stoop to. It clearly projected a picture of what power can do and the greed for power can make people turn barbarians and actually enjoy the gruesome acts to instill fear and get their ideology accepted.  

Tuol Sleng Genocide museum or S 21 is one of the most notorious secret prison of the 200 other prisons that were spread across Cambodia during the 4 years of Khmer rogue regime. It is estimated that between 12000 to 20000 people were imprisoned and tortured here before they were executed. There were only 12 confirmed survivors from this prison. Through out our couple of hours in this prison there was a grim eerie feeling. We felt as though the wall and cells were screaming out for help and justice. These walls have seen men, women and children being brutalized and tortured beyond imagination. It is gut wrenching to know what fellow human beings could do to one another.

This place is not for the faint heart but is a must visit to understand Cambodian history. Much of the prison is left intact and gives a very real and raw experience. The black and white images and paintings are extremely graphic and horrifying. Once a charming school, where kids played around and studied, it fell into the wrong hands and turned out to be the darkest pages of Cambodian history.

Our next stop was the killing fields. Again this is just one of the many killing fields in Cambodia where people were butchered and in the most inhumane way. Even young children were not spared as the Khmer rogues did not want them to seek any revenge. Once they ran out of burial space around S 21 prison, in hordes they drove prisoners who were tied blindfolded and gagged under the cover of darkness 15 kilometer away. They dug shallow pits, sprayed DDT and smacked people to death as bullets were quite expensive. People were brutally killed with hammers, axes, bamboo poles and we could just imagine how they would have pleaded for a quicker death. Most of them were not even dead and were still buried alive.

One of the pits here had 450 bodies in them. The most disgusting and tragic part was the killing tree where infants were smacked against the tree and killed in the most violent way possible. One in 5 Cambodians were killed by the Khmer Rogue regime. The memorial that stands tall here provided a glimpse of the brutality with skulls, bones and teeth recovered from the fields placed in a 17 tiered memorial. So many skulls were cracked open and punctured with sharp tools and weapons. The incident was so gruesome that even today we can find bones, teeth and victim's clothes strewn around the grave sight.

Following the depressing tour we did not feel like having lunch. This just reminded us of the fact that every wacko or nut job idea would definitely have sadistic fan following or supporters. Much like religion and new age gurus.

From looking at the fractured skulls to actually spotting the clothes strewn across and bones around on the fields just made us realize that these country men have been through terrible times and have survived the worst. The streets are filled with land mine survivors and they don't seem to carry hate in their hearts. The beauty of these people lies in them trying to move away from this gruesome past and ensure a brighter and peaceful future for the coming generations. 

Entry is priced at USD 8 and 6 respectively which includes a very informative audio tour that is available in multiple languages. Our hostel arranged for our tuk tuk and charged USD 18 in total for gun range, S 21 and killing field. It was pretty much a whole day affair. 

Travel To The Much Less Visited Koh Rong Samloem Island In Cambodia

Beaches were the most exciting part of our 75 days SEA backpacking trip. Undoubtedly, Sihanoukville is a beach place but what was exciting about it were the tours from Sihanoukville to remote and less frequented islands, namely Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem Islands. After reading up about both islands we decided to hit Koh Rong Samloem Island as it had a laid back vibe with nothing much to do apart from chilling at the beach in contrast to Koh Rong which has way too many stay options to chose from and was a typical party island.

Our bags were packed and we headed to the Serendipity pier to board our ferry to Koh Rong Samloem island. It was a short 40 minute speed boat ride from Serendipity pier to M'Pai bay. This was the only place in our trip where things were not really organized. Despite having tickets with all details mentioned including the bay number and ferry to board, the pier people made us change our boat twice creating a lot of confusion. Note: Be very sure to double confirm and board your ferry as there are last minute changes. However, it was all dealt with and with a delay of 10 minutes we left for our desired island. The speed boat was very comfortable and the ride so smooth that we did not even realize how soon 40 minutes went by. Unfortunately, we could not say the same for our return journey. The ride back was the complete opposite to say the least, the sea was very rough. Of course, the boat journey experience depends on Mother Nature's mood. 

Once at M'pai bay we were welcomed by a make shift pier of wooden planks as the pier was under construction. The first thing that we felt on reaching the bay was the calmness of the place. The beautiful Koh Rong Samloem Island was just our kind of place. Very calm, quiet, slow and laid back with unending beautiful beaches to walk by. A couple of restaurants and a handful of stay options is all that the place offers. We were thrilled as that meant a peaceful environment and above all most likely our own private beaches to enjoy. The island soothed our souls and upon reaching our hostel we fell in love with the place. We had initially booked our stay for 2 nights and immediately extended our stay by one more night.

Very fortunately Koh Rong Samloem Island has not seen exponential growth but the island has been leased by the Cambodian government to private players and it has just got a few years time to safe guard her wilderness and raw charming beaches. There are very few and basic eat out options on the island. Walking into one of the restaurants we ordered a simple egg fried rice. We never knew a simple and basic dish like fried rice could be so brilliant with tons of colorful veggies, local flavors and different sauces adding so much flavor to the mild rice.

The day was perfect with clear sky and in the evening we decided to take a long walk along the shore of the island and reach the other side of the island. This turned out to be one of the most beautiful stretches with tall and thick trees on one side, our feet leaving prints on the super sandy beach and crystal clear water on the other side gently brazing past our feet every now and then. It was so beautiful with no sound apart from the waves kissing the shore that we decided to soak in the beauty by sitting on one of the many rocks on the beach and enjoying the beautiful views.

After a good long walk we were lazing in the hammocks, soaking in mesmerizing views and that is when  the weather gods decided to surprise us. We saw dark clouds gather shape and create thunder far away. Clear blue skies turned dark grey followed by massive thunder and lightning. Slowly the fishing boats started arriving at the pier and the clouds became darker and were accompanied by massive lightning. We were just in time to run for cover to our hostel and it started to pour. The storm lasted for around an hour with trees being uprooted, furniture strewn around, boards fallen on the ground, puddles all across and bringing down the temperature drastically. Though little scary it was fun experiencing rains. It was such a contrast to the temperature that we experienced in the afternoon. Truly Nature has her own rules.

Despite the storm the folks in the hostel made sure the night was happening and awesome with bonfire, music, beer pong and traditional fire show. We sat on the swing by the beach under the starlit sky making memories!

Life on the island could not have been any better. It was like living our ultimate dream- a place to stay by the beach and waking up early in the morning to go for a swim in the turquoise blue waters. After a good swim we were hungry and super charged up for the day. We headed to Erin's kitchen for breakfast and treated ourselves to pan cake with chocolate sauce and a mango smoothie. The sit out on the shore at Erin's kitchen was a perfect set up. A massive tree next to our table provided the right amount of shade from the morning sun and the cold wind gushing past us made us feel relaxed. Our mind too was equally relaxed by the mesmerizing sound of the waves crashing on the beach.

In the afternoon, we were chilling on the swing and by the bar at our hostel when we stumbled upon a placard promoting a snorkeling tour. Since we were pretty much free the entire day we decided to give it a shot and in no time we were all set to leave for a snorkeling trip from the Yellow Moon hostel that had organized a boat tour including snorkeling, fishing, barbecue, sunset view followed by dinner.

The boat trip was the most exciting part of the day. We snorkeled at two different spots. Though the visibility and marine life was non existent, fishing while on boat was a brilliant experience. The two of us together managed to catch close to 7 to 8 fish. There was live barbecue on the boat and we had our catch barbecued with Thai fish sauce right there and this was the most fresh meal that one could have. It was a great experience to see everyone get a catch and we had fun comparing who got the biggest catch. Post sunset, we headed back to our hostel for a dinner of fried rice and chicken and veg kababs. The meal was pretty good. For USD 10 per person the trip was out and out worth it. Oh and of-course there was a can of free beer for every one on board which was a big plus and mind you the beer was as chilled as it could get. We also witnessed a rooster fight that was happening and the locals were pretty much involved in it.

Most of the hostels organize Beer pong tournaments and that is usually where you can spot majority of the crowd post sunset enjoying the game along with their drinks. We witnessed our first tournament here at Yellow moon hostel.

Plankton beach, just 5 minutes away from Yellow Moon hostel is where the beach comes alive post sunset. It is a once in a lifetime experience to swim with bio-luminescent organisms that lights up the blue waters of Cambodia. The later you get into the water the better is the effect. We got into the water after midnight. With every stroke or movement we could see bright fluorescent bio luminescent organisms sparkle. There are very few experiences that can not be explained with any amount of words or adjectives and this was one such experience. Yet another magical work of Mother Nature. It is an absolute must do in Koh Rong Samloem Island.

Out of the few places to dine in Koh Rong Samloem Island, Kiki's restaurant is the first preference. Almost everything on their menu is priced at USD 2 which is budget friendly. The pan cakes with Nutella was amazing and the baguette with fried eggs was one of the best brunches we have had in a long time. Their French fries are an absolute must try! None of the fries served by the massive fast food chains could even remotely come close to this one. It would be an absolute crime to not buy the fresh fruits on this island.

We tried mango and pineapple which was juicy, sweet and lip smacking. We had all of this by the beach under the shade of massive trees being seated on very comfortable naturally made bamboo chairs. One meal would go on for an hour enjoying the surreal atmosphere- life is beautiful!

After much deliberation and research, we booked our stay on the island with Coastal 23 hostel, a sister concern of Yellow Moon hostel. It was one of our best hostel experiences. We had opted for a private room. The beds are very basic but comfortable and come with a mosquito net. The beautiful wooden room is rustic and charming. The room, sheets, pillow cases were squeaky clean. They tried to give the best of travel experience by organizing budgeted tours. They also take great pains to make sure the décor is nice, cool, wacky and very creative plus innovative. It was very basic yet beautiful and considering the remoteness of this island, it was a luxury. The shared bathrooms were very clean and the entire place was very well kept. The hostel offers plenty of hammocks and pretty swings by the beach which is an absolute romantic spot with your loved one where you can enjoy the views of M'pai bay.

Coastal 23 hostel is the last property on the beach strip. Just a 5 minute short walk from here we reached a secluded rocky beach and a 10 minute leisure walk we reached the clear water bay. The name is completely justifiable as the water here was crystal clear and glass like. We could literally see thru the blue water. Apart from us on this secluded stretch there were hardly 8 other beach bums. We felt like we were on our own little private island. There are few charming beach facing bungalows on clear water bay. They seemed a little expensive however, stay options in M'pai bay were way better. The vibe in coastal 23 hostel was very chilled out. We could rent a kayak for USD 10, play volley ball or just sip the local beer by the beach all day. They have a pretty impressive bar.

Nothing had quite prepared us for a hostel experience. Another perk of travel, the hostel atmosphere is nothing like that of a hotel. In our opinion, it is not run to make profits but to help strict budget travelers. Hostels provide basic amenities and stay at a very reasonable price but give immense exposure and learning. In a very short span of three days, we interacted with folks from Mexico, Lebanon, New Zealand, Australia, Germany, Canada, England, USA, South Korea, France and Cambodia. The atmosphere is extremely social, friendly and trustworthy. It was one hell of an experience and quite overwhelming too in a very positive way.

Koh Rong Samloem Island has very beautiful dive sights. There is one shop that was brilliant- "Cambodian Diving Group." If you are a first time diver like us the "discovery scuba diving experience" priced at USD 95 takes you into one of the most pristine under water world in SEA.

Ferry round trip ticket from Sihanoukville to Koh Rong Samloem costs USD 22 per person and from Samloem if you want to reach Koh Rong just pay an additional USD 5 for a round trip. The ferry departs at 9 am, 11:30 am and 3 pm from Sihanoukville and it leaves at 10 am, 12:30 pm and 4 pm from Koh Rong Samloem. The return ticket is an open ticket meaning it could be used to return on any given day. There are several stay options in Koh Rong Samloem island. Based on the property you have chosen to stay make sure that the ferry stops at the desired boat jetty/ bay. If you miss your stop and you get down at the wrong stop it is a very expensive and tiring affair to reach the right part of the island. If you are fortunate enough you could find local boats willing to drop you at the pier but at a very exorbitant price. Or you have to carry all your luggage and trek through the jungle for 40 minutes to reach the other side. On a hot and sunny day this wont be the ideal island vacation experience. In our case, we chose Coast 23 hostel on M'pai bay and chose one of the most sought after ferry services "Speed Ferry Cambodia" which stops at 'M'Pai bay.' The other bay is Saracen bay.

For your return ferry from the island back to Sihanoukville, remember to carry your ticket one day prior to the ferry point and block your seats. You need to report 15 minutes prior to the departure time.

Sihanoukville Beaches- Gateway To Stunning Koh Rong Samloem Island!

What Goa is to Indians, Sihanoukville is to Cambodians. A perfect place with beautiful beaches, party atmosphere, sea food and of course shacks and bars. It should not come as a surprise that it is home to the largest brewery in Cambodia. The city is believed to have the best beaches in the country. We were keen to visit the secluded island of Cambodia- Koh Rong Samloem and Sihanoukville was our gateway to the island.

Stunning Beaches Of Koh Rong Samloem

Since it was more of a pit stop we decided to stay closest to the pier and that happened to be the Serendipity beach. The most crowded and touristic part of the town. The best way to identify the area is by the massive Golden Lion Circle. The area is lined with bar, cafes, restaurants, hostels, hotels and not to forget the string of Casinos. Sihanoukville is a complete casino city solely aimed at the Chinese tourists. If party is on your mind and you want to go completely wild, then Sihanoukville is the place to be. The city is buzzing with life at night and is very lively with live music, lights, casinos lit up and of course people partying like there is no tomorrow.

Though we went with minimal expectations to Serendipity beach, it was pretty much a turn off to put it very mildly. We happened to see the darker side of tourism. Sadly the beach was eaten up by the eateries that have mushroomed around the shore. The beautiful beaches back home in South Goa are paradise. The strong stench, massive amount of garbage strewn around, beer cans floating and glittering in the water, hundreds of restaurants encroaching the beach and sparing all but one feet width on the beach for people to take a stroll. However, since this beach was one of the smallest stretches and the most crowded, this was the scenario. Other beaches such as Otres are believed to be better. There also seems to be a private beach - Sokha Beach owned by Sokha Beach and Resort, where visitors can spend time on the beach by paying a small fee.

We managed to walk around the local market and were amazed by the number of stalls around. While the Serendipity beach was not much fun, we enjoyed the amazing budget friendly cafes and spas which was the only silver lining of Sihanoukville. Most people of Cambodia are extremely nice and friendly, greeting us with a smile at every corner. Their charming smile lit up our day.

Invito Restaurant serves amazing wood fired pizza at a very budget friendly price. Their service was excellent, staff very friendly and the thin crust pizza was very good. The ambiance was top notch.

There are lot of activities that one can indulge in while in Sihanoukville from snorkeling tours to diving. There are a few reliable dive stores that are PADI certified and provide a great experience.

We had stayed at Monkey Republic Hostel Serendipity beach road near Golden Lion traffic circle. Our first hostel experience outside India and boy were we blown away! We had opted for the basic private "Only Fan" room and it was way better than some of the hotels that we had stayed in. The room had an attached bath, cleanest of sheets, soft mattress and pillow, very friendly staff, happening pocket friendly bar and lot to offer during happy hours. The hostel's location is a great plus with bus station, ferry points, serendipity beach, plenty of good eat outs and bars all at walkable distance. Their travel desk helped us with booking ferry tickets at no additional cost. The hostel is very safe. The best part about the hostel was it was very quite and they gave us two draft beers complimentary. They have a pretty good and clean swimming pool. A security deposit of USD 10 is taken for towels which is returned at the time of checkout. None of the hostels we stayed at during our South East Asia trip was a party hostel. We are too old to have neon glow paints on us or to look for any no strings attached.  In all our research, we found hostel world to give good pricing than booking.com.

For our up journey from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville we opted for the Golden Bayon VIP Mini Bus Service. This comes highly recommended after/ second only to Giant Ibis. We were promptly picked from our hotel (for free) and dropped off at their office where our mini bus awaited us. Our schedule departure was at 8:45 am and we promptly left at 8:50 am. We chose seat number 5 and 6 and right in the middle. It is guaranteed that most of the luggage will travel inside the coach as there is very little luggage space. It was a very comfortable 250 km drive and the roads were in great condition that we could even catch up on decent sleep. The only thing is that it takes an hour to hour and a half to cross the city limits and hit the highway as the traffic scene is pretty bad in the capital city. If you plan to take the ferry on the same day to Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem islands, you would have an anxious drive as it would be cutting it too close. In our case, bus reached Sihanoukville at 2:35 pm and the last ferry to the islands departs at 3 pm. En route we had a 20 minute lunch break at a not so great restaurant. We decided to opt for coconut water and munched on the awesome local snacks that we were carrying.

Bayon Mini Bus

Overall we would give Golden Bayon a 5 star rating for their on time pick up, safe driving, comfortable seats, very clean bus and also for providing a bottle of water and they charged us USD 9, which was USD 2 less than what Giant Ibis was charging. Budget saver tip: If you book online there is a USD 1 processing fee and the Forex conversion charge by banks where as if you go to the booking center or any of the travel agencies it is a flat USD 9. Saving USD 1 might seem cheap, but for a budget backpacker couple travelling over 75 days opting multiple journeys it adds up. Overall very professional service. Try and have your tickets booked a little in advance rather than a day before to get the best seats possible otherwise they tend to hard-sell the last 4 seats that could get quite uncomfortable. Though we did not use the services of Mekong Express in Cambodia, just by the looks of it, their minibus looked on par with the two big players.

For our return journey from Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh, we opted for Giant Ibis Mini Bus Service. We were pleasantly surprised to see a bus in top notch condition and impeccable professional service offered by the crew. The previous night we visited their office near Golden Lion Circle updated our pick up location and the following morning we were promptly picked up from our hostel free of charge and the bus left right on time. Giant Ibis offers massive leg room than their competitors Golden Bayon. On board, we were served cold water and snacks from "Blue Pumpkin" bakers.

Giant Ibis Seat 1 A and B

The driver was very professional, not driving rash and maintaining speed limits at all times. It was the most comfortable 250 km journey. Tip: Do not opt for seats 1A and B right behind the driver. The seats do not offer enough leg room and engine compartment would made it a very uneven and uncomfortable journey. The additional USD 2 that you pay for the ticket is completely justified. This journey made us even more excited and we were looking forward to taking their night bus service from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

Not being too much of party people, we were craving for some secluded, calm and quiet beach time and we were definitely disappointed with Sihanoukville. Expecting the worse we set sail to "Koh Rong Samloem," which turned out to be the trip highlight!