Panna National Park

Day 18 Amarkantak to Panna Via Rewa 

Distance: 392 km

Road Condition: Good roads with occasional potholes. A stretch of 20 km in between has no roads. However, work is in progress to lay roads. On this stretch oncoming heavy vehicle creates a cloud of dust completely blinding the driver.

Panna, a hidden treasure far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, way off the tourist radar due to it's slim tiger population. Compared to other national parks, this park is very calm minus the tiger centric crowd. This makes the jungle safari a pleasant and serene experience.

Panna National Park

Ken river, the lifeline of Panna National Park is a rich source of uncontaminated water flowing through the dense forest, an ideal living condition for the marsh crocodiles. Apart from jeep safari the park also offers boat safari to witness crocodiles basking in the sun. If you are lucky enough you could even spot an elusive leopard quenching it's thirst. Minimum charges for the boat ride is Rs. 200 for 4 people.

Massive Ken River

Due to rampant poaching, in 2009 the entire tiger population was wiped out. 2 female tigers and a male tiger were then relocated from Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench respectively. Rigorous conservation efforts by the forest department and locals has led to an increase in the tiger population. Currently, the number stands at 27. There are designated teams tracking the movement of tigers keeping them safe from poachers.

The forest department might block some safari routes if there has been a kill. While we were there, one route was off-limits as there was a fresh kill by a tigress with 3 cubs. On another occasion, we saw the carcass of a leopard being carried away by the forest officials, word is a duel broke-out between the tigress and the leopard.

Safari expenses: Jeep charges Rs. 1500, guide 300, camera charges 250, park entry fee 1000. Do checkout the museum at the ticket booking counter.

We took 3 safaris and spotted vultures. Panna is one of the last few natural habitats for these endangered species. A rocky terrain leads to great view of deep gorge, also known as Vulture point. It would be a spectacular sight to see water fall into the gorge during monsoon.

Crested Serpent Eagle

Thanks to the sheer brilliance of our guide, Suresh, we spotted a highly camouflaged nightjar. It took us a while to differentiate the bird from the twigs around.

Camouflaged Nightjar

Up Close

Other wildlife sighting included tigers cooling off by the river, crocodiles basking in the sun, grey hornbill, stork billed kingfisher, eagles, paradise flycatcher, rufous tree pie, oriental magpie, mongoose.

Stork Billed Kingfisher

Changeable Hawk Eagle

Other tourist attraction in Panna- Pandava falls. A few things to note - guide service is mandatory, charges at Rs 60 and the falls is 600 mt away from the gate. Legend is, Pandavas spent a couple of years during their exile at this place. A flight of 100 steps leads to the caves. The falls is alluring and would be quite a sight during monsoon. The caves are in pretty bad shape, the govt has closed the caves all you get to see is 2 mt of the caves. The guide says if one is extremely lucky they could spot bear, leopard or tiger here. We are not sure how lucky you would be if you have a face-off with any of these.

Pandava Caves

We checked into MPTDC Jungle Camp, Madla zone, the property shares it's boundary with the park. They provide AC tented accommodation which are very cozy, rooms are spacious and clean with TV, small fridge and comfortable sit out.  The best part is safari booking office is hardly a kilometer away.

However, the service standards of the hotel are horrendous. During our 2 days stay in the month of April, there were frequent and lengthy power cuts. Despite having backup generators the management refused to switch them on even after repeated requests. The bizarre reason given was 'The guy who switches on the gen set was not available.'

In addition, they overcharged us Rs 500 for every jeep safari we took. This being a Government owned and run hotel, these charges were unacceptable. The jeep drivers employed by the hotel try to save fuel and refuse to drive on rugged terrain. The point of taking a jungle safari is defeated.

Also, food is bad. Management is not reachable at any given time. We highly recommend you to stay away from this property.

Do check out Ken River Lodge for stay options.

With great expectations we head to Khajuraho.

Amarkantak.

Day 13 Bandhavgarh to Amarkantak

Distance: 200 km

Road Condition: Very good state highway via Shahdol. The roads are flawless apart from a 6 km stretch, which is very poor.

Narmada Udgam

Beauty of a road trip is that one can change their direction and destination any time. Amarkantak was not in our itinerary, however, stumbling upon an impressive picture made us head in that direction. Arch shaped trees covering the black carpet like road was a welcome sight. It is a very quiet town that sleeps and wakes up early. One of the holiest places in India that has over hundred Shiva temples, a Gurudawara and a Jain temple.

Dream Road

Dreadful 6 km Stretch 

Amarkantak was packed with surprises, this is where the Vindhya and Satpura ranges meet, popularly known as 'King Of Pilgrimages.' One of the holiest rivers in India, Narmada originates here, a beautiful temple is built at the source of origin as a mark of devotion.It is believed that the mere sight of the holy river cleanses all sins. Aarti is performed twice a day at sunrise and sunset. Experiencing the puja awakens your spiritual side and takes you to a world of trance. The reflection of the temples in the kund makes it very picturesque.

Do not miss out on the group of ancient temples adjacent to Narmada Udgam. The history of this place goes back to 8th century when Adi Shankaracharya built a Surya kund to specify the origin of the Narmada. The layout of Shiva temple here is very unique, it has a common entrance and Mandapa leading to two different Garbhagras facing in perpendicular direction.

10th Century Shiva Temple

These 10th century monuments are from Kalachuri period, built by the ruler Karnadeva. These temples are very well maintained by the Archaeological Department of India. ASI have employed an ex-serviceman as the caretaker, who was kind enough to unlock the doors to give us a peek of the main deity - Lord Shiva. It is believed to be a Swayambu - 'Naturally occurring Ling' and once every month Narmada graces her presence here and pays her respect to Lord Shiva. It remains a mystery until today as to how this occurs.

Watch out for the stunning Bhrama temple visible from these ancient monuments, a few meters away. The murti is very eye catchy and is a must visit.

Bramha Statue 

Kalip and Dhudh Dhara are tucked away 8 km from here, the waterfall would be quite a sight in monsoon. Head-down 150 feet via rock cut stairs to reach Dhudh Dhara, the trek is not very challenging and gives you a good feel of the jungle. There are plenty of beehives around, be mindful.

The area around the temple was thriving with many Dharmshalas and quite a few private properties. We checked into Hotel Holiday Home, owned and operated by MTDC. They offer tented accommodations and rooms which were very comfortable, clean and basic. The tents are fitted with AC and are pitched in plenty of shade, keeping them cool even in summer. They are priced at 3200 INR including taxes. They serve good food and their service quality is commendable. The property is only half a kilometer away from Narmada Udgam.

MTDC Holiday Home

Our bags are packed and we head to Panna.

Bandhavgarh National Park, Jewel Of India.

Day 11 Bhedaghat To Bandhavgarh

Distance: 200 km

Road Condition: First 35 km tends to be chaotic so it is better to cover this stretch early in the morning. Pretty bad roads clubbed with zero road sense makes the drive horrifying. However, the moment you hit the state highway curvaceous road with excellent tarmac welcomes you. There is hardly any traffic and no pot holes until you reach Bandhavgarh. It is blissful to drive through ghat sections with beautiful trees adoring colorful leaves on either side of the highway. Once you reach Bandhavgarh, the 15 km stretch towards Tala is terrible. The roads are non-existent but the good news is work is underway to lay cement roads.

En Route Bandhavgarh

After a brief stay in Jabalpur, we head back to our home away from home, the jungles of India- this time Bandhavgarh. This national park lives up to it's expectation and hype as a tiger territory, it is believed that one has to be extremely unlucky to not sight a tiger here. 

So Comforting

Bandhavgarh national park is compact and beaming with wildlife, making it famous among tourists. There are 3 entry zones and Tala zone is the most sought after. However, one has to cough up more money to enter this zone. The booking counter for spot booking operates at a snail's speed and there is no gypsy booking booth near the counter. One has to call on a number provided on their notice board to book a gypsy for safari. On weekdays, you may get to enter the park via Magadhi or Kitauli zone and it is pretty much impossible to get a spot booking on weekends.

Show off

Safari expenses: Jeep charges Rs. 2000, entry Rs.1000, Guide fee Rs 300. No charges for camera. Entry for Tala zone is Rs 1000 more expensive.

Tala zone is right behind the booking office so there is no time spent in reaching the gate. For the other 2 zones, one would have to travel a few km to reach the entry gate. We had permit for Magadhi zone for our first safari and were greeted with lush green Sal trees, huge bamboo shoots, meadows and natural water holes. The terrain is hilly and the park is not as cold as other parks in MP. The fort, dam and lord Vishnu murti are within the park's boundaries.

Lush Green Park

We were right in time to witness breakfast being prepared for the mighty elephant, hot rotis were being prepared and each weighed around 3 kg.

Breakfast For The Giant

During the safari we spotted sambar, jackal, eagle, barking deer, chinkara, painted stork, peacocks, and caught a glimpse of elusive tiger crossing the road behind thick shrubs. This scene unfolded a few meters away yet only a few were lucky enough to witness it. As the safari came to an end, our guide drew our attention towards a jungle fowl in a hollow tree trunk incubation her eggs.

Mom At Work

Chinkara

We got permit to enter Khitauli zone for the evening safari. We had a great start- spotted a crested serpent eagle mere meters away which was not camera shy. After clicking a few pics we moved along to see a peacock trying to impress a peahen by a watering hole, pretty sure it does not take more than this for the hen to fall head over heels in love.

Serpent Eagle

Jackal

While admiring the beauty of the peacock dance, we saw a very conscious and alert wild boar walk to a watering hole to quench his thirst and cool off. After spending considerable time we headed in search of more action. Mere meters away from our gypsy we spotted a vine snake take shelter in a bamboo shoot. It was quite a sight and our first time to see a snake in the wild. It was beautifully camouflaged making one aware of the lurking danger around.

Cooling Off

Green Vine Snake

Our 3rd and final safari was to the Tala zone, and with this we covered all three zones of the park. Binod Kumar, our guide with 19 years of experience knew the forest inside out. We followed warning calls of langurs, sambars and spotted deer in search of a predator and ended up in Kankatti's territory who got her name from a feud years ago in which her ear was cut, hence, the name. The calls led to thick shrubs and in the background we saw glowing orange with black stripes, she was engrossed feeding on her kill - a spotted deer.

Lunch Time

Spent time admiring her and proceeded towards the 10th century Vishnu murti, this 35 foot sculpture has been carved out of a single sandstone rock. Steep slopes take you to a hill where you see Vishnu resting on a serpent with Bramha and Shiv on either sides for company. We were in awe with the architecture, and amazed by the history and beauty of India. The park is home for a natural fort and many sandstone caves that are out of bound for tourists. Specialty of Tala zone is one gets to see all these monuments.  If the words of the guide are to be believed, these caves are now used as home for tiger cubs.

Resting Vishnu

We checked into Tiger Den Resort, a pretty posh property. We were promptly checked into our room, the staff is very friendly, courteous and helpful. The resort offers great aesthetics and spacious rooms, has a swimming pool, spa, souvenir shop and a well stocked library. The food served there is awesome. Personal food requests are entertained, desserts are out of the world, sinful and heavenly. Their Phirni and mud cake with chocolate sauce is to die for. Tala zone is only half a kilometer away from the premises, the other 2 zones are 3 and 6 km away.
Downside: The bathrooms are huge but the shower cubicle is too small for comfort.

Excited to say hi to our next destination Amarkantak.

Bhedaghat

Day 9 Kanha to Bhedaghat

Distance: 150 kms. 
Road Condition: Good to Ok.

After spending 8 days in peace and tranquility we piloted to Bhedaghat to get a taste of crazy city life and chaos. Jabalpur, the entry point of Bhedaghat welcomed us with gridlocks, traffic rules are non existent. At snail's speed we crossed Jabalpur and moved towards Bhedaghat which is 25 km away.

10th Century Wonder

Bhedaghat a sleepy town set on the banks of holy Narmada is home for a cluster of attractions such as colossal marble rocks that rise over 100 ft, 10th century Chaunsath Yogini Temple and invincible Dhuandhar falls. Renowned for marbles the town is beaming with shops selling souvenirs in all shapes and sizes. Despite the temple town attracting hoards of pilgrims, the options to dine are very limited. The only ATM in the town operates from 8 am to 8 pm.

The best way to behold the beauty of marble rocks is to take a boat ride, which in itself is adventurous. The guys paddling the boat act as your guide and keep you entertained for the next 30 mins. One is is charged 50 to 60 rs per head for the ride. However, if you want to hire a boat exclusively your negotiation skills will come in handy and you might be charged a couple of hundreds. Boat rides are offered from November to May. However, the ride could be a risky affair as safety precautions are non existent, no life jackets are offered, boats are over crowed and one is made to wait until the boat is full and this could take up to an hour.

Pride Of Bhedaghat

The breathtaking Dhuandhar falls offers view of Narmada in full throttle, quite an amazing place to witness natures wrath, the white water gushing down with full force creates smoke cascade. The viewing gallery is the place to be to experience this phenomena. One could spend hours there and admire Almighty's magic. One gets to see the calmer side of the river as it takes a small detour resulting in water flowing at gentle pace, it feels pleasant to sit there, soak your feet in ice cold water and be in a state of reverie. There is no shortage of drama, here a guy offers to take 30 ft plunge into the water for mere Rs. 20 -30.

Smoke Cascade

Chaunsath Yogini Mandir - 108 steep rock cut steps lead us to the ruins of 10th Century Chaunsath Yogini Temple. The Garbaghaha portrays  the wedding procession of Shiva and Parvati on Nandi, word is this is the only temple in India to depict  this moment of their lives.

Just Married

It is indeed a sad site to see all 64 idols of the yoginis ravaged and disfigured. The temple silently paints a picture of the testing times it has seen and withstood the dreadful attacks and plunders of the Mogul forces. If you are looking  for calm and serene atmosphere, visit the temple early in the morning.

Ruined Yet Stunning

After sunset, we headed to the river banks to experience divine intervention, here Aarti is offered to Lord Shankar and water Gods. The whole atmosphere is electrifying, the locals play music and sing bhajans to please the river goddess. The beauty of the aarti is that everybody gets a chance to perform the ritual, irrespective of their beliefs. The locals treat the tourist as one among them.

Har Har Mahadev

Since Jabalpur city is only 25 km away, stay options in Bhedaghat are very basic and minimal. We checked into Hotel River View, the perks are- brilliant view of Narmada and marble rocks, a prime location as all the attractions are at walking distance and the hotel offers decent food. Cons: The hotel had poor hygiene standards - the sheets were very dirty and seemed like they had not been washed for eternity. The room had a pungent odor, fan was squeaking and gave us an eerie feel. Service quality was poor. Stay there only if you have no other options.

There are better hotels like the Government run Motel Marble Rocks and Upper rest house. Upper rest house offers only 2 rooms and the reservations need to be done in Jabalpur.

Adios Bhedaghat here we come Bandhavgarh.

Kanha National Park

Day 6 Pench to Kanha 

Distance: 200 kms. 
Road Condition: Very good roads and we clocked 1000 kms of our MP journey.

Today, we drive to Kanha celebrating our 2nd Wedding Anniversary. It would have been ideal to pamper yourself with apparel from a high end store, expensive jewelry, and a candle light dinner at a star hotel. However, there are few things money can't buy like having breakfast in middle of nowhere with birds chirping around, langurs jumping on trees, a lake nearby and the love of your life beside you making this perfect day priceless.

Blissful Breakfast

The best part about road trips are the challenges and surprises thrown at you and how one improvises to find solutions.  After driving a few kilometers enjoying the pristine beauty of the jungle on either side, we were taken aback to see a huge tree fallen on the road due to a heavy storm the previous night. Reminding us, mere mortals that we are at the mercy of Mother Nature. We took a detour via some fields to reach the other side of the road.

Challenge Accepted! 

Arriving at Kanha, we made this our home for the next 3 days and took 3 Safaris. The beautiful and huge Sal trees paint the jungle green. In the morning the park is cold in it's unique way and one has to experience it. National Parks across Madhya Pradesh are closed for evening safaris on Wednesdays. Nearest petrol pump is 25 km away. There is an ATM right opposite Khatia gate.

Colors Of Jungle

Go here not for the tigers but to catch a glimpse of the rare Barasingha. These endangered species can be found only in Kanha. Thanks to the conservation efforts their numbers have now reached to 450 from a mere 66.

Endangered Barasingha

Do not be hooked on to just spotting a tiger, the park is full of surprises, try and be appreciative of nature around you. You never know what the jungle has in store for you. We heard strong warning calls from Sambhar and spotted deer, which means only 1 thing- the predator is around the corner. The wait for the tiger was fruitful and we did catch a glimpse of the tiger walking down a hill and a tigress lazing around in the bushes to beat the scorching heat. As all jeeps were lined up awaiting the arrival of the tiger, from nowhere a spotted deer sprang up and sprinted towards the meadows.

Surprise Element

We were lucky enough to spot a confused peacock dancing and trying to impress a spotted deer. Other wildlife sightings included bison, vulture, endangered barasinghas, painted stork, racket tailed drongo.

Bewildered Peacock

Racket Tailed Drongo

Indian Bison

Unexpected showers during our second safari was a very unique experience. The air was clear, the park way too calm and silent without any alarm calls. As the safari was coming to our end, there was buzz around a waterhole - Alas! the royal bengal tiger relaxing in the waterhole. The shutterbugs went click, click, click.

King Of Kanha

As we headed towards the exit gate, we saw a deer raise an alarm call sensing danger from a harmless macaque. Since the deer is only used to seeing langurs, it wasn't sure if the macaque  was a friend or foe and hence raised the distress call.

Safari Expenses- Entry charges Rs.2000, Jeep Charges Rs.2000, Guide fee Rs.300. No charges for the camera. Note- Entry to zones other than Kanha are Rs.600 less expensive.

Checked into Wild Chalet Resort, spread across 9.5 acres. It is a Bird watcher's paradise. Top class hospitality service. The staff is enthusiastic and love to take care of their guests. They surprised us with a cake during dinner as it was our anniversary. Resort offers great food and their masala chai is a must try. The property overlooks a river and you can watch elephants taking a bath in the river. Add-on the lake attracts a lot of birds. One more great property from India Adventures. We chose a Non-AC, Air cooler room during summer and we did not regret it one bit.

Our Den

Other attractions- Nature walk across the river bed, where we saw a crow hunt a bee- eater and simultaneously the bee-eater hunt for an insect, both failed attempts. It was an amazing sight to see the bee-eater hunt when it's own life was at stake.

Egret hunting for food

You can also watch the sun set by the river. The view in the evening is amazing with three different shades in the sky- pink, orange and blue. Clouds partially covering the sun with thunder and lightening.

Sunset

Resort Staff, Ghanshyam took us to the nearby weekly market to experience the flavors of the village. He was kind enough to buy us desi daaru, Mahua Liquor that is made from the mahua flower available in abundance.

Villager Collecting Mahua Flowers

Taking fond memories we packed our bags and left for Bhedaghat.