Nalanda- An acclaimed University of Ancient times

World's most prestigious and thriving university of Ancient India. It was a childhood dream come true to visit this magnificent first International Residential University that flourished for centuries. A center of learning and way to means for people who were in search of wisdom. People from across the globe flocked to this university in India to graduate in Astronomy, Math, Grammar, Logic, Theology, Meta Physics and Medicine. It is said that the library of Nalanda continuously burnt for three months and that the smoke was seen from far away distances. Despite the savage destruction left behind by the Mughal invaders they failed to wipe away the memory and learning that this place offered. This proves "Pen is mightier than the sword."

An archway of massive thick green trees welcome you to this esteemed site. The ruins of Nalanda comprises of several monasteries, residential quarters, temples and shrines. The entire complex is mesmerizing that beyond any doubt in its heydays, Nalanda university would have given the best of education to people from across the globe. It is sad to see such a glorious historic monument now in ruins. We stood there baffled thinking about millions of Indians who stand for several hours in long queues outside embassies of foreign countries in the hope of getting admission in colleges overseas. There was a time when we gave the World good quality education and now for several years India has been facing a brain drain crisis.

Almost all of the many monuments, temple and monasteries are breathtaking. As we entered the ruins, to our left was monastery 3, the post card of Nalanda University- the most imposing of all and was constructed in seven phases. There were four towers erected on the corners of which only two remain now. You can walk around this monument and on the other side are several pagodas and small stupa like structures. Parallel to this is another monument in ruins that showcases state of the art water harvesting system.

Backtrack the same route and the pathway leads to the remaining temples and monasteries. Almost every monastery has residential cells, raised platforms for the teachers to preach while some of them are equipped with wells and traditional ovens used for cooking.The drainage system and the well thought of ventilation shafts for sunlight are commendable.

Monastery 1 apart from providing the maximum number of artifacts during excavation  is one monastery that went through nine phases of construction. It has bed platforms and shelves for keeping books and other valuables. The destruction of the University by fire is visible in the cells of this monastery.

There is one monastery with vast number of stone pillars still standing in their original position serving more the purpose of a grand hall. Stay on the walkway and you will be led to the huge smelting furnace. Also, watch out for the small narrow passage that leads you to the temple and with this the tour of Nalanda pretty much comes to an end.

However, when you are existing the complex do not walk back the same route but take the trek path from the last temple shrine that leads you to the backside of all the monasteries. The highlight of this path is the elevated platform that offers breathtaking panoramic views of the ruins and also leads you to the most incredible ruin i.e. Temple no.2. Take a stroll around this temple to witness some of the most stunning and crisp stone carvings, portraying sculptures of gods and goddesses, Jataka stories, geometric patterns and even mermaids. Either our ancestors were big fans of fantasy or actually saw this for real. There are several pillars lying around this temple and each paints a unique story.

Sarai Mound concludes your visit to the ruins of Nalanda. This multi-storeyed Buddhist temple with large number of stupas and shrines was protected by a massive wall enclosure. The ruins in the sanctum suggest that the Buddha statue was around eighty feet high. Don't be too surprised if you find a monitor lizard giving you company while taking a stroll around.

ASI has done a wonderful job of maintaining the ruins well. An early morning visit to the ruins would be ideal, the monument is open to visitors from 9 am. Clean drinking water is made available and restroom facilities too are available. A day pack is an absolute must as it takes a minimum of two hours to see the entire ruins. There are hardly any options to stay or dine in Nalanda. If you are planning to stay over, Rajgir which is 12 km away would be the best place to halt and there are plenty of buses that ply from Nalanda to Rajgir.

Right opposite the ruins of Nalanda is the Nalanda ASI museum. It houses relics that were excavated from the ruins of Nalanda and other neighboring regions. The museum houses age old relics in absolute pristine condition. The sculptures of Buddha in various mudras, the striking calm sculpture of Shiva and Parvati and the sculpture of a fierce looking Goddess with seven hands wearing human skulls as ornaments around her neck are enthralling. A display of the simple tools used by the sculptors made us appreciate the immense talent that they had to convert rock into such amazing sculptures giving them so much life. There are two massive storage earthen pots at the entrance. The terracotta gallery exhibits elephant stamps that come with a lid, this was used to save time and make multiple copies or impressions. Other interesting displays that should not be missed are combs made of ivory and dices made of bones.

Rajgir - The Crown of Magadha Kingdom

Rajgir, the first capital of Magadha Kindom that later on became the Mauryan Empire, has a lot of tales to tell every inquisitive visitor with a keen interest in history. This city is not just mentioned in the epic "Mahabharata" but also finds a place in Jainism and Buddhism scriptures and has a cluster of attractions spread across 3 lanes- defining Incredible India. This tiny town in the remote part of India has more than enough to give treasure hunters sleepless nights.

Sone bhandar Caves is the ultimate mysterious challenge and more like an Indiana Jones moment in Rajgir. This simple looking cave could very well be your elite luxurious retirement bonanza. If only you could decipher the inscription on the caves. Legend has it that incredible amount of gold and precious stones are hidden here and cracking this code would be the key to this treasure. When Britishers failed the intelligence test of our forefathers they resorted to brute force by firing canon balls in the hope of getting their hands on the booty. Needless to say their choice was not a smart one.

En-route to sone bhandar is Maniyar Matt dedicated to serpent Goddess. This structure resembles a well and has some interesting images such as Ganesh with snakes wrapped around, a six armed dancing Shiva and a four armed Vishnu. Sadly though most of these images have been ruined.

Bimbisar Jail or barely the remains of it today. If not for the board by Bihar Tourism, this place left us perplexed as to what should we see. It just looks like any other barren land. However, we were told that there was an underground prison where King Bimbisar was imprisoned by his son Ajatashatru. The site for the prison was chosen by the King himself, over looking the Griddhakuta hill. This hill is believed to have been used by Buddha to preach and the King being a disciple of Buddha wanted this privilege.

Another striking and almost unbelievable yet a pretty convincing place that makes you question your own reasoning ability is Lord Krishna's Chariot marks left on a very hard rocky surface. There are two tracks that run parallel to each other for several meters. It is very firmly believed that these are the wheel tracks of Krishna's Chariot. We believe Hindu Mythology is completely factual or one hell of a grand illusion.

Head to Brahma Kund to experience one of the many hot water springs in India. This is one of the holiest Hindu pilgrimage sites. People strongly believe that the water here has great healing powers. The many temples around the hot water spring offer a very charming and serene ambience. We sat there immersed in thoughts losing track of time. The only downside to this place appears to be self declared pseudo priests and guides who offer unwanted advice and charge a fee. You will find many of them who may ruin your time there. It would be a better idea to stay away and not encourage such people as you never know how much they might end up charging you.

Vishwa Shanti Stupa is a breathtaking beautiful pagoda built on top of a hill and can be accessed via rope way or a tedious trek. The stupa is home to 4 statues of Buddha made of gold depicting birth, enlightenment, teaching and passing away of Lord Buddha. There is also a monastery and the views of the valley from here are amazing.The tickets for the rope way are issued from 8 am to 4.30 pm and keep in mind there is a one hour lunch break.  A round trip ticket for the rope way is priced at Rs 60.

On the way to Shanti Stupa stand the ruins of  Jeevak Aamravan, a residence cum hospital that was run by Jeevak Kaumarbhritya. Jeevak was a renowned physician in the royal court of  Bimbisar and Ajatashatru. He even treated Lord Buddha and there are accounts of his medical practice mentioned in literatures in Pali language.

There are beautiful tongas in Rajgir that slowly ferry people around. These colorful tongas were our best friends. They offer a package deal for most of the tourist attractions at a government set price of Rs 450 per tonga. However, if you want to visit attractions that are not mentioned in the package you will have to shell out a little more.

Rajgir is a very tiny town so most people prefer a day trip and hence this place offers very few basic stay options. Most of them are very old homes converted to hotels. Rajgir offers 3 very good stay options- Hotel Nalanda Regency near bus stand, Siddharta Hotel near Brahma Kund and Gargee Gautam Vihar Resort on the same road as Nalanda Regency. There is not a single 5 star property in Nalanda. Annapurna Restaurant in Nalanda Regency is the best deal to dine in the whole of Nalanda and Rajgir. They have a wide range of cuisines to choose from and serve awesome food. They offer excellent service and have a reasonably priced menu.

We stayed at Hotel Ratnagiri near bus stand, this budgeted place is one of the best stay options in Rajgir. This relatively new building which quite honestly is a rare sight in Rajgir offers compact rooms with clean sheets and soft pillows. Do keep in mind that there are frequent power cuts in Rajgir, this property has 24 hour power backup. Another plus is that it is walking distance from the railway station and tongas are readily available.

Another thing to keep in mind while travelling is though Indian Railways is a boon to a traveler, at the same time it can ruin your travel plans all together. Our train from Patna to Rajgir was late by over two hours, so do set aside buffer time to accommodate any such delays.

Fast & The Furious In Kerala Backwaters- Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race!

When you think of Kerala, you can picturize the calm and serene backwaters with paddy fields and the tall coconut trees in the backdrop, houseboats drifting slowly in the canals and joyful boat rides across villages, watch birds fly above and stealthily dive in the water for a catch. But come August, the still backwaters turn into a battlefield of the mightiest oarsmen showcasing their muscle power and skill. The enthusiasm and energy is contagious, villagers from near and far cheer their home teams, the rhythm is set and tourists from across continents are seen flocking the canals to witness the most prestigious boat race of the year- The Nehru Trophy Boat Race.

Nehru Trophy Boat Race, the most famous "Vallam Kali" which literally means boat game, at Punnamada, Alappuzha/Alleppey, is held on the second Saturday of August every year. The Kerala Snake Boats or Chundan Vallam have been in existence for over 400 years and were used as naval vessels by Kuttanadu Kings. The boat is made of local wood "Aanjili Thadi" and their speed, maneuverability, capacity to carry over 100 warriors on board and the snake like construction made it ideal for launching an ambush. Now, the communities use these boats for racing and keep their legacy alive. These races are considered as a matter of pride and prestige. The Chundan Vallam also has the record of "the biggest water vessel used for sports purpose."

The water festival in Kuttanad is unique as no other country in the world has such festivities nor a sport with such large number of members in a team. Nehru Boat Race is one of the most prestigious events celebrated not only by Keralites but the whole country. In total, around 56 boats contest in different categories. Of which, 16 are Snake Boats, also known as the "Kings of Water," each measuring anywhere between 120-140 feet. Each boat comprises of 100 to 120 oarsmen, 4 lead from the front paddling in unison, 5 or 6 men at the back navigate the boat and a band of 10 musicians sing and play drums to keep the tempo high and going. The snake boats are ornamented with team flags and good luck charms. 

Punamada lake is electrifying, the locals gather along the entire race course to cheer and support their favorite team. It is not just snake boats/Chundan Vallam that compete but other boats as well such as Churulan Vallam/passenger boats which have circular rings at both ends, Vaipu Vallam which were used to prepare food for the warriors, one end of this boat is higher than the other and Iruttukuthy/Odi that were designed for transportation at night and were used to conduct piracy raids during wars.

The oars moving in sync to the rhythmic songs cutting through the calm waters of the race track, the sweat soaking their clothes wet, the biceps flaring with every swift move, the zeal to win, the tension evident as they near the finish line and then the ultimate sense of achievement amidst the loud cheer from the supporters, this event is definitely one of its kind. The racing is not just muscle power but also keen understanding of water currents, tides and many other minute variables. The best team wins the race and that would be a cohesive team that trusts each other. One small mistake by a member and the result could be disastrous.

To keep their adrenaline high and momentum going, every snake boat has rhythmic songs called "Vanchipattu" or the song of the boatman. This mini orchestra with traditional instruments keeps pace with the movement of the oars and lifts up the spirit of the boatmen.

For the 63rd edition, Union Minister Nitin Gadkari was the chief guest along with several other dignitaries such as Chinese Ambassador Le Yucheng. Just before the start of the Snake Boat Race, in an extravagant fashion, a chopper greets the participants by showering  rose petals on them.

Throughout the day a lot of races are conducted keeping the spectators on the edge of their seats. It is indeed awesome to see how these boats zip through the back waters at incredible speed. Participants are as young as 8 years and there is a separate category for women. All races guarantee a thrilling and nail biting finish.There are several heat rounds followed by 4 finales that decide the ultimate champion. Just nano seconds separate the first and second place. Though there are several other boat races that are conducted in Kerala, Nehru Trophy Boat Race is a matter of prestige and pride for the participants. The fervor with which the locals support their favorite teams by arriving on the day of event in large numbers and celebrating every moment is commendable. In all, it is a thrilling experience.

In the end, when the winners lift the trophy it all seems worth it. The participants put in a lot of hard work by training for months under the supervision of the senior most oarsmen with some even going to the extent of taking vow of abstinence and celibacy to prepare for this event. Equal credit goes to the villagers and community members for they are the ones who contribute money in lakhs for the race, ensure the boats are smeared with sardine oil for smooth passage through the water and take the responsibility of feeding the oarsmen during the practice sessions and foot in all the expenses.

Tickets for the boat race are easily available even on the day of the event. Tickets range from INR 100 to 2500 per person. If you are buying the tickets in Alleppey, please make sure you buy them from registered agents or government office. The locals and government authorities are super helpful. Kindly avoid touts and brokers who approach you with fancy deal on the streets. If you are booking tickets online do carry a printout of the confirmation page. This would suffice as tickets and would be checked at the respective boat jetty.

Elaborate, comfortable and covered seating arrangements are provided by the organizers. We purchased the "Tourist Silver" tickets priced at INR 1500 per person. In our opinion, this is the best seat in the house as it provides excellent views of the race track, finishing line and podium. If you reach early and grab the corner seats at the far end you could get excellent pictures too. However, the draw back is if you arrive late you might not get good view as the seats are on a first come first basis. To reach the seating arena one has to board a ferry from "Madha Jetty" (For Silver) or "Lake Palace" Jetty (For Gold.) Limited snacks and beverages are made available at the venue so it would be wise to carry a day pack with snacks and fluids of your preference.

The race day is a full day event with no options to dine there. Hence having a heavy breakfast would be a good idea. Do carry a good hat and sunglasses.

One of the most popular ideas to watch the race is believed to be from the houseboats. The package sounds really hard to resist with DJ, lunch, snacks, drinks, exclusive views, comfort - all made available at a cost ranging from INR 1500 to 2500. If it is too good to believe, it is more often not! The ultimate crux of the race that is "the view" is obstructed by several other house boats that are lined up one after the other. Houseboats provide little to no cover from the sun, imagine spending the entire day without any shade or cover. They are over crowded and there is no way one can leave halfway through the event. You can easily give the houseboat experience a miss when better views are made available for the same price.

Race Track To The Left