Nalanda- An acclaimed University of Ancient times

World's most prestigious and thriving university of Ancient India. It was a childhood dream come true to visit this magnificent first International Residential University that flourished for centuries. A center of learning and way to means for people who were in search of wisdom. People from across the globe flocked to this university in India to graduate in Astronomy, Math, Grammar, Logic, Theology, Meta Physics and Medicine. It is said that the library of Nalanda continuously burnt for three months and that the smoke was seen from far away distances. Despite the savage destruction left behind by the Mughal invaders they failed to wipe away the memory and learning that this place offered. This proves "Pen is mightier than the sword."

An archway of massive thick green trees welcome you to this esteemed site. The ruins of Nalanda comprises of several monasteries, residential quarters, temples and shrines. The entire complex is mesmerizing that beyond any doubt in its heydays, Nalanda university would have given the best of education to people from across the globe. It is sad to see such a glorious historic monument now in ruins. We stood there baffled thinking about millions of Indians who stand for several hours in long queues outside embassies of foreign countries in the hope of getting admission in colleges overseas. There was a time when we gave the World good quality education and now for several years India has been facing a brain drain crisis.

Almost all of the many monuments, temple and monasteries are breathtaking. As we entered the ruins, to our left was monastery 3, the post card of Nalanda University- the most imposing of all and was constructed in seven phases. There were four towers erected on the corners of which only two remain now. You can walk around this monument and on the other side are several pagodas and small stupa like structures. Parallel to this is another monument in ruins that showcases state of the art water harvesting system.

Backtrack the same route and the pathway leads to the remaining temples and monasteries. Almost every monastery has residential cells, raised platforms for the teachers to preach while some of them are equipped with wells and traditional ovens used for cooking.The drainage system and the well thought of ventilation shafts for sunlight are commendable.

Monastery 1 apart from providing the maximum number of artifacts during excavation  is one monastery that went through nine phases of construction. It has bed platforms and shelves for keeping books and other valuables. The destruction of the University by fire is visible in the cells of this monastery.

There is one monastery with vast number of stone pillars still standing in their original position serving more the purpose of a grand hall. Stay on the walkway and you will be led to the huge smelting furnace. Also, watch out for the small narrow passage that leads you to the temple and with this the tour of Nalanda pretty much comes to an end.

However, when you are existing the complex do not walk back the same route but take the trek path from the last temple shrine that leads you to the backside of all the monasteries. The highlight of this path is the elevated platform that offers breathtaking panoramic views of the ruins and also leads you to the most incredible ruin i.e. Temple no.2. Take a stroll around this temple to witness some of the most stunning and crisp stone carvings, portraying sculptures of gods and goddesses, Jataka stories, geometric patterns and even mermaids. Either our ancestors were big fans of fantasy or actually saw this for real. There are several pillars lying around this temple and each paints a unique story.

Sarai Mound concludes your visit to the ruins of Nalanda. This multi-storeyed Buddhist temple with large number of stupas and shrines was protected by a massive wall enclosure. The ruins in the sanctum suggest that the Buddha statue was around eighty feet high. Don't be too surprised if you find a monitor lizard giving you company while taking a stroll around.

ASI has done a wonderful job of maintaining the ruins well. An early morning visit to the ruins would be ideal, the monument is open to visitors from 9 am. Clean drinking water is made available and restroom facilities too are available. A day pack is an absolute must as it takes a minimum of two hours to see the entire ruins. There are hardly any options to stay or dine in Nalanda. If you are planning to stay over, Rajgir which is 12 km away would be the best place to halt and there are plenty of buses that ply from Nalanda to Rajgir.

Right opposite the ruins of Nalanda is the Nalanda ASI museum. It houses relics that were excavated from the ruins of Nalanda and other neighboring regions. The museum houses age old relics in absolute pristine condition. The sculptures of Buddha in various mudras, the striking calm sculpture of Shiva and Parvati and the sculpture of a fierce looking Goddess with seven hands wearing human skulls as ornaments around her neck are enthralling. A display of the simple tools used by the sculptors made us appreciate the immense talent that they had to convert rock into such amazing sculptures giving them so much life. There are two massive storage earthen pots at the entrance. The terracotta gallery exhibits elephant stamps that come with a lid, this was used to save time and make multiple copies or impressions. Other interesting displays that should not be missed are combs made of ivory and dices made of bones.

Sanchi, Vidisha & Udaigiri Caves.

Day 41 Bhopal To Sanchi, Vidisha & Udaigiri

Distance: 50 km
Road Condition: Very good

The Great Stupa

Sanchi Stupas, the first stone monuments in India leave you spellbound! Built in the 3rd century BC, atop a hillock, these magnificent stone structures are nothing less than a feat of engineering ingenuity. These breathtaking Stupas built by Emperor Ashoka mark the birth of Buddhism. These World heritage monuments stand as a fine example of Classical Indian Architecture.

The Stupa 1, towering over 16 mt in height & 36 mt in diameter, embellishing triple umbrella on the Dome is the center of attraction. One can find intricate carvings depicting the 'Life Of Buddha.'

Stupa 1

Stupa 2

Stupa 3

Every ruin has a sad story to tell and this place is no exception. Walking across the Stupas, one comes across a ruined pillar.  As the story goes, this pillar which was erected by Ashoka was destroyed by a local Zamindar. Only the lower portion of the pillar stands while the remains are now preserved under a shed. This pillar carries a strong message from Ashoka warning the Monks & Nuns of expulsion, if found to create schism within Buddhist Community.

The Britishers did not leave empty handed, the contents of the Stupas were shipped to England.

Vidisha & Udaigiri Caves

India is a treasure trove & never fails to amuse even the most seasoned Traveler, Vidisha is a fine example. This quiet town teleports one to the 3rd century - the structure, ruins, caves & pillars leaves one speechless. It gives any Indian immense bragging rights. Once a thriving town, this most sought after trade destination was abandoned during 6th century and till date continues to remain in an antique state. The ruins of Brahmanical Shrine here, reveals that the foundation bricks are cemented together with Lime Mortar, the first known example of use of cement in India.

Close to the ruins still stands 'Khambha Baba/ Heliodorus Pillar,' a free standing 20 feet pillar. Helio Dorus an ambassador from Taxila constructed this pillar to pay homage to Vasudev, Lord Vishnu. This pillar is strikingly similar to that of Ashoka pillar.

In 4th century AD came into being Udaigiri Caves, a series of rock cut carving with emphasis on the preaching of Hinduism & Jainism. These caves established by Vikramaditya stand as testimony of the craftsmanship during that period. Udaigiri caves represents great Indian craftsmanship, imagine such carvings done at an era when stone was the only tool available. I think it would be safe to assume that human race was much more smarter, better skilled & naturally gifted before modernization & fancy gadgets kicked in. The most significant features are the carving of 'Varaha,' the 3rd incarnation of Lord Vishnu & the statue of Vishnu resting, both carved out of single piece of rock.

Irony is Gods, the creator & protector of the human race, are now locked behind steel enclosures in order to keep them safe from humans because it is important for Pinku to express his eternal love for Tinku on centuries old monuments!

Checked into Hotel Samodhi at Sanchi- the property is value for money. Pretty spacious & clean rooms, the service & food is very good. Stay options are very basic & minimal, it is advisable to stay in Bhopal.

Our next stop- Bhimbetka.

Gwalior

Day 27 Shivpuri To Gwalior

Distance: 200 km

Road condition: Average to Bad.
We were advised not to take the Datia route as it was in terrible condition. It was a dry 200 km drive with no food options en route.

Gwalior Ki Shaan

The city of Gwalior was founded in the 8th century by Suraj Sen & named after Saint Gwalipa who cured the king of a deadly disease. Gwalior served as the Capital city for many royal dynasties. The invincible fort dominates the city. The splendid temples & palaces left behind stand as testimony of the Royals.

The massive fort on a cliff, 300 ft above ground level continues to epitomize Hindu architecture. At the foot hill you are greeted by huge Jain statues carved out of the mountain.

Rock Cut Mahavir

The fort complex is home for Man Singh Palace, 11th century Sas Bahu mandir, 9th century Teli Ka Mandir, Gurudwara, Suraj kund and the Scindia School.

For The Bahu 

For The Saas

The splendid Raja Mansingh Palace built in 1508 AD, is a four storeyed monument of which two are underground. This magnificent palace proudly flaunts the glazed iconic blue tiles with varied painting of figures like ducks, humans, peacocks etc. on its exterior wall. In its heyday, the entire palace was beautifully lit up with these tiles, much of it now remains in bits & pieces, telling a tale of the destruction the fort has witnessed.

Teli Ka Mandir: This temple soaring 30 mt in height is of Dravidian style & the carvings are from Indo Aryan period.

Jai Vilas Palace: This neo-classical palace, the residence of the royal family, takes you back in time and showcases the lifestyle of the Maharajas!

Home Of Royals

A section of the palace is converted into a museum exhibiting silver baggi & rath, Persian carpets, armoury, crystalware, paintings, stuffed white tiger skin & other precious artifacts.

The highlight of the museum tour is the Darbar Hall, that houses two Belgium glass cut chandeliers, each weighing 3.5 ton and were hung only after 10 elephants had tested the strength of the roof.

The magnificent chandeliers have made the palace famous and the hall housing the chandeliers is decked up with 560 kg of melted gold.

The dining hall houses a train that carries cigars, wine & champagne, used till date by the Royal family to host lavish dinners.

While in the study room, do catch a glimpse of the vintage kerosene run fans & phonograph.

Made In 1914

Another section of the palace is now converted to a heritage hotel, run by Taj group. If you want to have a real sense of how to live life King size, this palace is a must visit.

Gwalior is a foodies paradise, do try the faluda ice-cream, chaat, Bahadura's laddus made in desi ghee & finish with paan from Rathore at Gandhi market.

From here we head to Bhopal.

Orccha

Day 23 Khajaraho to Orccha

Distance 200  km

Road Condition: Decent to Good.

True to it's name, Orccha is a hidden jewel of MP, quite literally, there are absolutely no sign boards and we had to stop multiple times to check if we were heading in the right direction despite using Maps. This small town packs a punch and keeps tourists busy for a couple of days.

Orccha is way off the tourist radar, the place offers stunning view of Chattris, river rafting in Betwa, Raja Ram Temple with an astounding story, Laxminarayan Temple, Chaturbhuj Temple, beautifully planned and exquisitely built Fort - housing Jehangir Mahal, Raja Mahal, Rai Praveen Mahal.

View Of Orccha From Lakshmi Narayana Temple

Raja Ram Temple: This Palace turned temple has a fascinating story to say. The statue of Lord Rama was brought from Ayodhya to Orccha by Ganesh Kuanwari. The temple still being under construction, the deity was placed in the palace kitchen. Upon completion of the temple they tried to move the idol but in vain. Thus a new temple was built around the idol. This is the only place in India where Lord Ram is worshiped as King.

Palace Turned Temple

Make yourself available here at 8 pm to witness the evening Aarti. The temple premises is buzzing with activities and you can capture sadhus doing what they do best. Camera and leather belts are strictly prohibited inside the temple premises and there are no safe deposit box or cloakrooms.

Chattris: Built along the banks of Betwa river, stands tall the burial place of the Bundela rulers. The narrow passages lead to the first and second storey offering breathtaking view of Orccha. The view of the Chattris from the 'Sunset Point' across Betwa river is stunning.

These monuments are now shelter to vultures. Maintain absolute silence and be sure not to disturb them as they may take flight. This is one of the very few places to get up close view of these critically endangered species. Gates open from 8.30 am to 5.30 pm, however the tickets have to be purchased from the ticket counter at the fort.

Right next to the Chattris by the river side are 2 monuments left in ruins, one of them seems to be an old Shiva temple. This 3 storeyed building has mysterious stairway leading to the upper floors. The higher the climb the better the view of the river, ruins & Chattris. Do watch out for bats & insects in the dark stairway.

It would be a good idea to visit these monuments early in the morning as plenty of beers bottles left behind suggest trouble mongers could be around after sunset.

Fort: The fort compound is the center of attraction in Orccha, home of magnificent and much talked about Jehangir Mahal built by Raja Bir Singh Ju Deo in the 17th Century.

From Jehangir & Raja Mahal you get a breathtaking bird's eye view of Orccha. The mural painting in the palace and the views from Raja Mahal are so mesmerizing that you might lose track of time.

It is a long walk to the exit door which is the only way out and is closed at 5.30 pm. Be mindful of the time otherwise you might end up like us, trapped inside. In a much dramatic way, we had to scream our guts out to draw the attention of other tourists and finally got the authorities to unlock the door and get us out.

Our Gateway To Freedom

Sound and light show takes place here, there are 2 shows - 7.30 pm English & 8.45 pm Hindi. A part of the fort complex 'Sheesh Mahal' is now converted to a heritage hotel, owned and run by MPTDC.

Chaturbhuj Temple: Built upon a massive stone platform stands tall the stunning Chaturbhuj Temple initially built for Lord Ram. Steep steps lead you to the top of the monument and the view of the city is brilliant. You have a panoramic view of Jehangir Mahal, Raja Mahal, Chattris, Ram Raja Temple & Lakshmi narayana Temple.

There was a charming wedding processing going on with guys playing desi music on drums. The mood was electrifying and everyone around felt like they were a part of the Baraat.

Lakshmi Narayana Temple: Make it a point that you visit this temple to see the 2000 year old Mural wall paintings covering spiritual & secular concepts bringing the walls of the temple to life.

The weather gods were very kind to us. As a pleasant relief from the scorching sun, the sky turned gloomy, slight drizzle & strong winds brought down the mercury level drastically. Making the visit around these historic monuments very pleasant.

It was quite thrilling & exciting to drive on the narrow bridge that can accommodate only one heavy vehicle at a time.  A slip here or there you might end up in the bottom of the river. This narrow bridge is the lifeline connecting Orccha & Tekhmargh.

We checked into Bundelkhand Riverside, it is hard to believe this is not a heritage property. This charming property built on the banks of betwa river, takes you back in time. The switchboard, furniture, high rise ceiling with chandeliers, huge mirrors in hallway, beautiful paintings, old photographs, minute attention to detail makes this one of the best properties in Orccha. The rooms do not have TV sets but there is a common TV room. Property is absolute value for money, they provide complimentary breakfast.

Hotel offers swimming pool, open terrace, private entry to the river. The river facing rooms have great sit-out. The management organizes folk musical event in their lawn everyday. The service is outstanding - everybody is helpful and knowledgeable. They always greet you with a smile and exchange pleasantries. They stand as a fine example for hospitality industry.

After spending 3 beautiful days in Orccha, we left for Shivpuri.