Dhubela Museum

Chhatrasal Museum, the largest museum in the State of MP, on the Khajuraho - Orccha highway is a must visit. In this very site there stood a Palace, the ruins of which still stand in bits & pieces. This was not in our itinerary, but we made sure we stop over as this was highly recommended by the locals.

The museum, divided into 8 sections, houses artifacts from the 3rd century. Relics displayed are from Gupta, Kalchuri & Chandela periods focusing on art, painting, antique sculptures, arms & artillery.

Don't miss the canon of Adil Sher Shah from 18 century AD.

Within the museum compound stands the Mastani Mahal built 1696 AD, which was once a beautiful palace. It was built by the Maharaja for a beautiful dancer and now stands as a monument which says who loves whom!

Around the museum are many more ruined monuments, one can spot the 18th century  tomb of Sawai Singh from the highway a little before the museum.

Even in the most unexpected corners of India lies priceless treasures! Oh you Incredible India. 

Bhimbetka - Cave Dwellers

Day 42 Sanchi to Bhimbetka

Distance: 50 km
Road Condition: Good

Cave dwellings

Bhimbetka caves, lying in the lap of the Vindhya ranges, are a gift from our forefathers, aka cavemen! These long lost rock shelters were discovered by Dr. Vishnu Sridhar in 1957. This World Heritage Monument offers a pictorial representation of how our ancestors lived their lives during the Stone Age. The rich paintings and art depict day to day activities, it is hard to believe that plant extracts used as colors centuries ago look amazing even today.

These caves were inhabited by human race from Paleolithic time up-to Medieval period. The bright green and red colors extracted from plants and minerals have been dated to 100000 B.P. The quality of the paintings and art forms are splendid. Scenes from celebration, warfare, hunting, & figures of humans, animals, mythical creatures are portrayed with great precision.

Though the outside temperature was at 42 degree, as soon as you enter the caves the temperature drops significantly.

The following piece of art depicts a scene of two elephants with long uplifted tusks. You can see a caveman standing on one of them holding a spear and wearing a sword on his waist.

Among the figures of various animals, pay close attention and you will be able to spot the hand print of a small child.

A Royal procession is depicted here, horsemen & soldiers armed with bows, arrows, swords & shields. The horsemen are accompanied by drummers.

 Men in formation and a peacock next to them.

Hunting scenes - you can see men hunting deers with bow & arrow.

Ginormous Boar

Men in Battle Formation

Children Playing

We end our MP trip with this place. With great memories we head back home- Hyderabad.

Sanchi, Vidisha & Udaigiri Caves.

Day 41 Bhopal To Sanchi, Vidisha & Udaigiri

Distance: 50 km
Road Condition: Very good

The Great Stupa

Sanchi Stupas, the first stone monuments in India leave you spellbound! Built in the 3rd century BC, atop a hillock, these magnificent stone structures are nothing less than a feat of engineering ingenuity. These breathtaking Stupas built by Emperor Ashoka mark the birth of Buddhism. These World heritage monuments stand as a fine example of Classical Indian Architecture.

The Stupa 1, towering over 16 mt in height & 36 mt in diameter, embellishing triple umbrella on the Dome is the center of attraction. One can find intricate carvings depicting the 'Life Of Buddha.'

Stupa 1

Stupa 2

Stupa 3

Every ruin has a sad story to tell and this place is no exception. Walking across the Stupas, one comes across a ruined pillar.  As the story goes, this pillar which was erected by Ashoka was destroyed by a local Zamindar. Only the lower portion of the pillar stands while the remains are now preserved under a shed. This pillar carries a strong message from Ashoka warning the Monks & Nuns of expulsion, if found to create schism within Buddhist Community.

The Britishers did not leave empty handed, the contents of the Stupas were shipped to England.

Vidisha & Udaigiri Caves

India is a treasure trove & never fails to amuse even the most seasoned Traveler, Vidisha is a fine example. This quiet town teleports one to the 3rd century - the structure, ruins, caves & pillars leaves one speechless. It gives any Indian immense bragging rights. Once a thriving town, this most sought after trade destination was abandoned during 6th century and till date continues to remain in an antique state. The ruins of Brahmanical Shrine here, reveals that the foundation bricks are cemented together with Lime Mortar, the first known example of use of cement in India.

Close to the ruins still stands 'Khambha Baba/ Heliodorus Pillar,' a free standing 20 feet pillar. Helio Dorus an ambassador from Taxila constructed this pillar to pay homage to Vasudev, Lord Vishnu. This pillar is strikingly similar to that of Ashoka pillar.

In 4th century AD came into being Udaigiri Caves, a series of rock cut carving with emphasis on the preaching of Hinduism & Jainism. These caves established by Vikramaditya stand as testimony of the craftsmanship during that period. Udaigiri caves represents great Indian craftsmanship, imagine such carvings done at an era when stone was the only tool available. I think it would be safe to assume that human race was much more smarter, better skilled & naturally gifted before modernization & fancy gadgets kicked in. The most significant features are the carving of 'Varaha,' the 3rd incarnation of Lord Vishnu & the statue of Vishnu resting, both carved out of single piece of rock.

Irony is Gods, the creator & protector of the human race, are now locked behind steel enclosures in order to keep them safe from humans because it is important for Pinku to express his eternal love for Tinku on centuries old monuments!

Checked into Hotel Samodhi at Sanchi- the property is value for money. Pretty spacious & clean rooms, the service & food is very good. Stay options are very basic & minimal, it is advisable to stay in Bhopal.

Our next stop- Bhimbetka.

Bhopal

Day 40 Gwalior To Bhopal

Distance 424 km 
Road condition: Moderate to Bad

Taj-ul-Masjid

Bhopal, the Capital of Madhya Pradesh, comes as a big surprise for people from metros or any developed cities. It is way ahead of it's time - brilliantly planned city with wide roads, express lanes for bus, immaculately functioning signals & people following traffic rules adds more beauty to the city.

The Upper & Lower lakes in Bhopal are very well kept and makes it an ideal place for a perfect evening. Sail, speed boats & ferries are available for hire, cruising on one of them & watching the sunset makes it a great experience.

Be sure to check out the Imposing Taj-ul-Masjid in old city. This is believed to be the largest Mosque in India. The most striking feature of the Mosque is the pillars towering to great heights flaunting brilliant Islamic architecture.

Jama Masjid, built in 1837, continues to impress people with its gold spikes on the domes. It would be a great idea to visit this mosque early in the morning when it is free from all chaos. The lanes that lead to the Masjid would be very crowded later during the day owing to the several hundred shops that have mushroomed around.

Sair Sapata: This amusement park on the other side of the lake is a great place for kids to have a ball. The toy train being the highlight, there are quite a few restaurants to pamper your taste buds. There are plenty of other activities to keep the kids engaged.

Despite all development and buzz there still lingers a dark shadow on Bhopal reminding us of the 'Bhopal Gas Tragedy.' The Union Carbide Factory that stands as a testimony of the tragedy that had befallen on Bhopal. The factory, in ruins today, continues to contaminate the environment and the area is still off-limits.

We checked into Hotel Sarthak in New Market. The rooms are spacious & clean, their service is good. Location of the hotel is brilliant. The food is good. Rooms offer a TV & fridge. They have exclusive car park.

From here we head to Sanchi. 

Gwalior

Day 27 Shivpuri To Gwalior

Distance: 200 km

Road condition: Average to Bad.
We were advised not to take the Datia route as it was in terrible condition. It was a dry 200 km drive with no food options en route.

Gwalior Ki Shaan

The city of Gwalior was founded in the 8th century by Suraj Sen & named after Saint Gwalipa who cured the king of a deadly disease. Gwalior served as the Capital city for many royal dynasties. The invincible fort dominates the city. The splendid temples & palaces left behind stand as testimony of the Royals.

The massive fort on a cliff, 300 ft above ground level continues to epitomize Hindu architecture. At the foot hill you are greeted by huge Jain statues carved out of the mountain.

Rock Cut Mahavir

The fort complex is home for Man Singh Palace, 11th century Sas Bahu mandir, 9th century Teli Ka Mandir, Gurudwara, Suraj kund and the Scindia School.

For The Bahu 

For The Saas

The splendid Raja Mansingh Palace built in 1508 AD, is a four storeyed monument of which two are underground. This magnificent palace proudly flaunts the glazed iconic blue tiles with varied painting of figures like ducks, humans, peacocks etc. on its exterior wall. In its heyday, the entire palace was beautifully lit up with these tiles, much of it now remains in bits & pieces, telling a tale of the destruction the fort has witnessed.

Teli Ka Mandir: This temple soaring 30 mt in height is of Dravidian style & the carvings are from Indo Aryan period.

Jai Vilas Palace: This neo-classical palace, the residence of the royal family, takes you back in time and showcases the lifestyle of the Maharajas!

Home Of Royals

A section of the palace is converted into a museum exhibiting silver baggi & rath, Persian carpets, armoury, crystalware, paintings, stuffed white tiger skin & other precious artifacts.

The highlight of the museum tour is the Darbar Hall, that houses two Belgium glass cut chandeliers, each weighing 3.5 ton and were hung only after 10 elephants had tested the strength of the roof.

The magnificent chandeliers have made the palace famous and the hall housing the chandeliers is decked up with 560 kg of melted gold.

The dining hall houses a train that carries cigars, wine & champagne, used till date by the Royal family to host lavish dinners.

While in the study room, do catch a glimpse of the vintage kerosene run fans & phonograph.

Made In 1914

Another section of the palace is now converted to a heritage hotel, run by Taj group. If you want to have a real sense of how to live life King size, this palace is a must visit.

Gwalior is a foodies paradise, do try the faluda ice-cream, chaat, Bahadura's laddus made in desi ghee & finish with paan from Rathore at Gandhi market.

From here we head to Bhopal.

Shivpuri

Day 26 Orccha To Shivpuri

Distance: 120 km

Road Condition: Very good 4 way lane.

Chhatri In Memory Of Madhav Rao Scindia

Shivpuri, the then summer capital of Scindia rulers, is a small town with great places of interests such as Madhav National Park, George Castle, Chattris & Tatya Tope memorial.

Madhav National Park: It is a great park but sadly almost all wildlife was wiped out due to rampant hunting by the Royal family and their friends. The 20 km drive inside the park hardly yielded in any wildlife sighting. However, it is a bird watcher's paradise. The park is open from sunrise to sunset with no specific safari timings.

Within the park premises is the massive man-made Sakhya Sagar lake, home for marsh crocodiles. The lake has abundant water even during peak summer and is a good place to spot wildlife & birds quenching their thirst. MPTDC operates a boat club offering joyrides.

George Castle: Within the national park stands tall George Castle built by Maharaja Jiyaji Rao Scindia for the King Of England George V. It was built as a rest house for the King during his visit to hunt tigers, it so happened that he shot and killed one on the way and hence never stayed here.

These majestic beasts that were once found in abundance here are now completely wiped out. All to prove machismo of Nawabs, Kings and Britishers. The panoramic view of the national park from atop George Castle is fabulous. The castle is now converted into a museum.

Madhav Rao & Maharani Sakhya Raje Scindia Chhatri: In their memory the Scindia family have built 2 magnanimous Cenotaphs facing each other. These monuments are nothing less than architectural marvels. Especially the one dedicated to Madhav Rao Scindia built with sparkling white marbles is stellar.

The doors are made of silver and the exquisite mural wall paintings are a delight. This place is ideal to spend a quiet evening and watch the sunset.

Truly Royal - Silver Door

Tatya Tope memorial: Betrayed by his friend Man Singh this is where Legendary Tatya Tope's trial was conducted and he was publicly hanged to death by the British Raj for the Revolt of 1857.

Legend Lives On

We checked into Tourist village Shivpuri operated by MPTDC, this is one of the best properties. The property is brilliantly laid-out and the aesthetics are very good. It is at the edge of Madhav national park & shares boundary with Sakhya sagar lake. Resort houses swimming pool, gym, indoor games area & adventure activity zone. Mountain bikes are also available on rent. Food standards are pretty good. The boat club is within the resort premises.

Next destination Gwalior.