Thoonga Nagaram! A City That Never Sleeps- Madurai

This temple city is home to the iconic Meenakshi Amman Temple and several other grand temples and also the city where Silapathikaram one of the grand epics of Tamil literature came from. This city has lot of culture heritage and was considered a very important trade hub even in the ancient times. Legacy of Madurai the Meenakshi Amman temple was ransacked and demolished by Mughal invaders in the 14th century and restored to it's present day glory by Nayakkar family in the 16th century.

We fell in love with the beautiful age old monument Meenakshi Amman temple. This magnanimous temple has four entrances and at each entrance is a high raising Gopuram that is beautifully carved and brightly painted. There are intricate carvings of mythical creatures that took us back in time. The temple is dedicated to Meenakshi Amman and Lord Shiva. The temple walls are beautifully painted and how can one miss the brightly colored ceiling of the temple. The entire complex is supported by numerous pillars that are equidistant and placed with great precision.

Every pillar, wall and corner of this massive temple complex has elaborately carved monolithic mythical creatures and scenes from Hindu mythological epics. The sculptures in the temple depict the beauty of women by highlighting their features in an intricate manner. Big breasts, thin waist line and broad hip, all while staying in the realm of art. They were so precise in their carvings that they would create sculptures that were exactly how they saw women around them- voluptuous, highlighting their beauty and not creating a fake sculpture and expecting women to idolize it.

The other great attraction within the temple premises is the "One Thousand Pillar" mandapam aka "Aayiram Kaal Mandapam." this madapam has thousand pillars each again precisely placed with intricate carvings and paintings. The grandeur of this mandapam is enhanced by the sculptures with such minute details giving a feel that they might come to life any time. The mandapam has now been converted to an art museum with exhibits ranging from a 20 foot massive door that used to stand guard the temple to photographs to sculptures of various deities to antique coins. 

The main deity is Nataraja the cosmic dancer, however, the showstopper and the most puzzling aspect is a group of rock cut cylindrical pillars that greet you at the entrance. The puzzling aspect is if you places your ears on the pillar and knock the pillars you can hear unique musical notes, tunes from each pillar. These pillars seem to be hollow and each one creates a unique note.

The sacred pond within the temple premises is believed to be the testing ground for a new work of literature. Tirukkural by Tiruvalluvar was the piece that got the approval. Legend has is that no marine form of life exists in this pond and is considered very sacred. Walking around the pond offers a unique view point from where you have a view of the Golden Kalash or Gopuram above the main deities Shiva and Amman. To mark this spot the temple authorities have installed a copper plate.

The temple is open throughout the day however, the gates to the inner sanctum are open from 4 am to 12.30 pm and 4 pm to 9.30 pm. The age old structural engineering and water management are that effective that they still work flawlessly. Set aside at least a couple of hours to soak in the beauty of this ancient Indian monument. 

Digital cameras are prohibited inside the temple premises but mobile phones are allowed we failed to understand this logic. As you enter the lanes leading you to the temple shopkeepers pressurize you to leave your footwear and bags with them, free of any charges and in return would try to hard sell you their products. Please note that temple authorities have created safe deposit counters where devotees can leave their footwear and bags free of cost. 

Kudal Alazagar Perumal Temple, this extraordinary temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu is a couple of kilometers away from Meenakshi Amman temple. The sculptures on the Goparum at the entrance depict scenes from the epics - Ramayana and Mahabarata at various tiers. The massive walls and pillars of this incredible temple exquisitely portray the various incarnations of Lord Vishnu. The long and broad walkways have elaborate paintings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. A chamber of the temple is dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi and the deity is beautifully carved.

As you enter the temple on the left do check out the elaborate carving on the wall behind a glass enclosure. This carving just blew our minds, it illustrates the Sun, Surya Bhagwan riding on a chariot pulled by 7 horses that depict 7 days of the week. Around the sun are 6 corners that depict different seasons and around them are the 12 sun signs. There are two serpents depicting Raghu and Kethu that stand guard on either side of the Sun. The serpent on the left has its tail curled outside denotes day and the one on the right with its tail curled inside denotes night. This carving was carved in ancient times before modern science, tool and gadgets, ultra powerful telescopes existed. This goes to prove the fact that our forefathers were extremely smart.

However, the sore part was concrete constructions within the temple premises eating up parts of this ancient wonder. Multiple AC vents have been drilled, ugly PVC pipes running around make the temple lose its charm. The temples is open all days from 4 am to 12 pm and 4 pm to 9 pm.

Mariamman Thepakolam Temple is built around a pond and is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess of rain- Mariamman. During Thaipusam, float festival a floating chariot goes around this temple and lights up the entire area. This festival commemorates the birth of King Thirumalai Nayak. Sadly, when we visited the pond it was absolutely dry and was being used as a cricket ground. The temple would have been an absolute fantastic site to see had the pond been filled with water. It is a perfect place to take a stroll for a relaxing evening. There are plenty of food carts around to make your day end with good food. 

Near Thepakolam is the Sri Muktheeshwarar Temple which is as old as Meenakshi Amman temple. This temple is very calm and peaceful and has some great architecture. As there was no Goparum for this temple, the temple constructed at the Tepokkalam serves as the Goparum for this temple. 

Nayakkar Mahal - This palace was built with the help of an Italian architect by King Thirumalai Nayak in 1636. The architecture was a combination of Italian, Dravidian and Islamic style and was built to be the most significant palace of South India. Though the exteriors of the palace were plain and simple the splendor interiors are worth watching. Unfortunately, very little of this palace remains now as King's grandson destroyed most of the palace structure.

Like many other beautiful churches St. Mary's Cathedral is a magnificent and eye catchy cathedral standing as a fine example of secularism practiced by our beautiful Country. The beauty of this cathedral draws you to this place, the architecture providing a touch of Roman and European style is a treat for the eyes. This church is a couple of minutes walk from Nayakkar Mahal. The school around the church adds a nice charming factor.

The perfect place to satisfy your hunger pangs is to head to "Modern Restaurant," a star attraction within this star city. This age old restaurant is now successfully run by their third generation. The legacy of this restaurant has still been kept intact, they ace in serving traditional vegetarian food to their patrons. This is the ideal place to treat your taste buds for breakfast, lunch or dinner. We recommend you try all three. The elaborate meals for lunch include chapati and korma, 4 different types of vegetable curries, rice, dal, dal powder, good amount of desi ghee, sambar, rasam, puli kolambu/vata kolambu, curd, more or buttermilk, pickle, appalam and dessert. When we dined we were served mysore pak as dessert that was drenched in ghee. After this sumptuous meal they served us a banana and healthy pan for easy digestion. This huge spread of meal is priced at only Rs. 80 per person.  To ensure the authentic traditional taste, they do not use any ready made masalas or artificial food colors or flavors. All masalas are handmade to perfection in traditional style even today.

If you are there for breakfast or dinner treat yourself with different varieties of dosas or classic upma. The korma, chutney and sambar compliment the tiffin very well. Though we are not big fans of idiyappam we fell in love with their masala idiyappam.  Also, do try out their jangiri sweet which is pretty famous in Tamil Nadu and you wont be disappointed . This place has seen a wide range of eminent guests such as Sir CV. Raman, Dr. Rajendra prasad, Nehru, and the Father Of The Nation himself Mohandas Karam Chand Gandhi.' This restaurant is on Netaji Road, walking distance from Meenakshi Amman temple.

We highly recommend "Jigardhanda Junction" outlet for their awesome Madurai special Jigardhanda. This sweet drink is a big hit and a specialty of Madurai city. This outlet is near 'Periyar Bus stand.' To beat Madurai heat keep yourself hydrated the Natural way and sip on tender coconuts that are available in abundance and your body will thank you a million times.

During our stay in Madurai we checked into Rani Mangamal Residency, this age old hotel now beautifully renovated with modern amenities is managed and run by a group of able people. This is a perfect budgeted hotel to stay in Madurai. The hotel offers spacious rooms with clean bath, 24 hour running water, satellite TV, free WiFi in the lobby and all of this at a super budgeted price. The Madurai Railway Station is right opposite the hotel. Despite the railway station being bang opposite the hotel, the thick walls managed to filter out all the chaos from the station or main road completely. The Periyar bus stand is just a few minutes walk, from where one can access most parts of Madurai. Meenakshi Amman temple is at walk-able distance from here. There are plenty of restaurants in the vicinity.

Madurai is a happening town and all parts of the city are easily accessible by public transport. Madurai is too hot a city even in the month of August so it would be a good idea to wear cotton clothes and carry a good pair of shades. Also, keep yourself hydrated to beat the heat as the heat is way too dry and more grilling than the heat you face when you travel up North.

Courtallam a perfect destination very close to Madurai.

Yeh Hai Mumbai Meri Jaan!!!

Mumbai, the dream city of the Masses, a magical city that has elevated people from poverty to prosperity. The glamour world of Bollywood, home to business tycoons and one of the world's most expensive house and alongside comes the darker and grimmer world of underworld dons trying to run the city and the common man shrugging off the ghastly attack by coward terrorists. A few spots in the city still wearing the signs of destruction left behind. This city teaches the world on how to be brave and survive even in the most horrifying circumstances, be it the terror attacks or natural calamities. This city has a never say die attitude and comes together to come back to normalcy.

Mumbai was meant to be a pit stop for our Magical Monsoon Matheran trip. But coming to Mumbai and not getting engulfed by it's charm is highly impossible. This is the perfect city to see the ultra rich and ultra poor co-exist. The financial capital of India takes you aback with breathtaking high rises, bridges built over sea, the over hyped real estate prices and the sea facing homes.

Taj Mahal hotel was built in 1903 and believe it or not it was built 21 years before the Gateway of India. This beautiful piece of history is a true example of what Mumbai stand for- It's surviving spirit and fearless attitude. This hotel was opened in record time after the ghastly terror attacks.

The beautiful monument, Gateway of India, was completed in 1924 and it was built to commemorate the visit of King George and Queen Mary but the first major event to happen was the ceremony that was conducted on 28 February 1948 when the last set of British troops and divisions left India post-Independence.

The beach providing a view of Gateway of India and Taj Mahal hotel is a picture perfect moment but as much as we would love to see the beautiful building, the clutter floating in the water reflecting a darker side of commercialization and tourism melted our hearts. This significant and beautiful place is surrounded with so much garbage around, if only Mankind would respect Nature, this world would definitely be a much better place.

Commuting like the Mumbaikars in the local train is an experience in itself. You need to master the art of boarding and alienating the train without getting a scratch. That being said, this is the lifeline of Mumbai and the entire city relies on it and its pretty much a part of every single person's routine.

With the monorail being introduced, we hopped in for a joy ride and were pretty impressed with it. The smart Mono rail criss-crosses the city, ferrying people from one end to another. 

This dream city is also home to several slums which houses the most hard working class that are grossly underpaid. It is such a contrast to see one of the world's largest slum among such urbanization. This made us wonder how is it not possible to eradicate poverty and rehabilitate these folks. Living conditions in these slums are beyond imagination, millions still don't have access to clean drinking water, healthy living environment, drainage system etc.

The high and the mighty bow their heads down at Siddhi Vinayaka temple and even at times ditch their luxury cars and choose to walk it up from their sprawling bungalows to the temple. This Ganesh temple built in 1801 is one of the richest temples in Mumbai.

The Mount Mary church at Bandra, 80 mts above sea level, is a beautiful stone structure and the interiors have beautifully painted murals depicting the life events of Mary. This church is also famous for the feast of the Blessed Virgin Mary held in September followed by a week long celebration known as Bandra Fair.

Bandra-Worli sea link, reduces the travel time from Bandra to Worli from 90 minutes to 20-30 minutes. This INR 16 Billion bridge is perfect for late night drives and of course makes for some beautiful photographs.

Marine Drive, is the ideal place for an evening stroll or to just sit there with the high rise building behind and the sea in front inviting us to dream big and encouraging us to fulfill those dreams. Ah! The city of Dreams.

The Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus, popularly known as Victoria Terminus "VT" Station, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is blend of Victoria Gothic, Mughal and traditional Indian style of architecture. The wood carvings, tiles, iron and brass railings, and the grand staircase left us in awe at the brilliance of the designs.

Mumbai is a fantastic destination for food lovers and apart from the most famous Juhu Chowpati, there are a lot of other eateries that make you lick your fingers. We treated our taste buds to the best of street food, desserts and a wee bit of fancy continental food.

Your trip to Bombay is not complete without a visit to Leopold Cafe. They have extensive variety of Beer and their Alferdo Veg Pasta and Peking Chicken fried rice is a lovely add on. This place still bears the remains of the terror attack- the bullet holes and small crater due to the grenade blast under one of the tables tell the horrifying tales.

If you are in mood for some Nachos, french-fries, nooodles, visit Abstrakt Bistro & Lounge. The food was excellent and the ambience great.

Milkshake at Shiv Sagar- This place is not just famous for its Idly, Vada, Dosa, tea and coffee but also serves some really good milkshakes. We tried the Sitaphal Milkshake and it was as heavy as a whole breakfast meal.

Sadguru Pav Bhajji- This place is famous for the variety of Pav Bhajji that they offer with lots of butter floating on the bhajji and the only thing you can be heard saying after finishing it is - Yeh Dil Maange More!!

People who love chaat will definitely vouch for this- "as long as you have not had Pani Puri you have not had Chaat". For Pani Puri, we would highly recommend Sind Pani Puri house, they have the perfect blend of spice and masala providing a perfect end to your chaat experience.

To satisfy the sweet tooth craving, head to Rassilly, a small falooda joint and try from a list of their faloodas. The Rabdi falooda was heavenly filled with dry fruits and believe us when we say it would not be possible for a person to finish the whole glass.

For those who love ice creams, Ice Cream sandwich at Rustoms at Churchgate is a must visit. This place serves Ice cream Sandwich with some variety of flavors ranging from Muskmelon to Pappay and the ice cream is sandwiched in between two wafer slabs, definitely unique.

Of course, the trademark snack Vada pav at any of the eat outs, Maharashtra's very own favorite snack is a must try.

Mumbai gave us a taste of the rapid fast Mumbaikars' life. We enjoyed the iconic places, the food and in true Mumbai style we were welcomed by our friend and her family who made the stay in Mumbai filled with happy and joyous memories.

Alleppey A Floating Paradise!

The placid canals and backwaters, massive amount of palm and coconut trees dotted along the backwaters, traditional homes, rich green paddy fields and banana plantations aptly defines what natural beauty is. Kerala is the perfect place to unwind while sipping coconut water and gorging on excellent sea food. Of course a mere mention of Kerala and the first thought that crosses our minds are the houseboats giving you a glimpse of Punammada Lake.

The houseboats on Punnamada lake, which is a part of the longest lake in India- Vembanad, are a pretty sight adding a lot of charm to Alleppey, no wonder it has been named, Venice of  the East. These traditional looking massive built house boats that are in abundance provide all the creature comforts in a luxurious way and complete the whole Kerala Backwater experience making it a pretty sight but cliche. But this most often chosen option of enjoying the Kerala life comes with its own hindrances or loopholes- Traffic jams due to their sheer numbers, docking the boats all of them cramped together at one place at night, limited movement which means less exploration and the food options are not much.

We thought instead of opting for a houseboat it would be best to travel like the locals and take a ferry ride to catch a glimpse of their daily routine. The ferry ride helped us understand how on a daily basis it positively touches millions of lives. We passed through villages that had no roads, saw multiple small channels breaking from the massive backwaters and leading to even smaller and more beautiful villages. Some of these channels were so narrow that they could only be accessed by canoes.

The journey offers breathtaking views of paddy fields, the beautifully scattered churches and schools, the iconic post office and in a true sense we understood how massive and beautiful the backwaters of Kerala are.

It was an awesome sight to see the massive ferry stop on either sides of the banks for locals to alienate and reach their homes. The ferry definitely rules the waters here and it pretty much reminds you of the bus journeys on the road with so many left and right turns combined with a couple of U turns. The ferry clearly wins over the buses as they do not have to face traffic jams, it is an absolute free way! To our astonishment this mighty vessel managed to venture into small and narrow canals with as much ease as a small canoe would have.

Also, from the ferry you can witness various birds from egrets, cormorants to kingfishers busy hunting for fish and some even gracing your camera by posing for photos. We even saw an eagle resting on the compound wall of one of the houses in a village totally comfortable with so much activity around and completely at peace, making us realize once again how awesome and beautiful nature is. She feeds us when we are hungry, quenches our thirst, helps us travel. The least that we should give back is the respect that she deserves.

Since we were in Alleppey to attend the most awaited event of the year- the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, we got excited to see multiple teams prepare for the boat race set to happen the following day. The serene and calm town of Alleppey completely transforms and gives a feel that you are on the sets of action flick 'Fast And Furious.' Every year on the second Saturday of August, the government of Kerala conducts the prestigious 'Nehru Boat Race Festival.' We would definitely rate witnessing the teams sweat it out and practice as the highlight of the ferry ride.

This whole awesome package of a two and a half hour ferry ride with the locals from Alleppey town jetty to Pullicunno church came at an all inclusive price of  INR 15 per person.

We were left speechless when we saw the church on the banks of the water providing a picturesque view. This church with its Portuguese style architecture shot to fame thanks to the Tamil movie "Vinnaithaandi Varuvaayaa," parts of which were shot in this beautiful church. The church was so peaceful and we were the only visitors, it has a calming aura around it that makes you fall in love with this place almost instantly. We decided to get back by bus and it took us only 40 minutes to reach Alleppey town. If you are short on time or do not wish to take the local ferry there are frequent local buses that ply from Alleppey town to Ramankary with tickets priced at INR 22 per person and as always you have the luxury to hire a cab too.

The best way to explore any place is take a stroll around and you never know what might catch your attention. While walking towards the beach, we came across these beautiful bridges and canals that made us stop and appreciate the beauty all around us.

Alleppey Beach, a beautiful stretch of white sand and deep blue waters, is an ideal destination to watch the sun set in the horizon. It is not way too crowded giving ample space for an evening stroll. Kids and adults can enjoy camel ride and there are couple of eat outs to treat your taste buds. The hot fried peanuts and the view of the sunset makes one's life just perfect, indeed, small things in life give such great pleasure.

The Alleppey lighthouse is also worth visiting. We got to experience Kerala monsoons when we were at the lighthouse. It was a perfect moment with the panoramic view of the massive beach and rail tracks, the thunder of the clouds followed by mighty downpour. Note that the lighthouse is closed on Mondays.

Our enthusiasm to try out Kerala's authentic food had us all pumped up and we were not disappointed at all. Kerala's authentic food will satisfy even the best of food critics. There are plenty of restaurants to dig into for authentic Kerala cuisine and the meals includes Fish gravy, traditional fat red/white rice, two varieties of vegetable curry, sambar/rasam, Morekolambu, buttermilk, pickle, papadam and sweet. The best restaurants to try out the meals in Alleppey are 'Thaff' and 'Brothers.' In Thaff, do try out the chilly fish fry and the parota with chicken curry. If you are uncomfortable with the traditional fat Kerala rice do enquire if the hotel serves the normal thin rice.

For other delicacies like appam or parota, puttu, kadala curry, chicken curry, 'Creme Corner' restaurant is an ideal choice. The perfect way to finish your lunch or dinner would be with piping hot cup of 'Kattan Chai.' If you love sandwiches and puffs  head to 'Himalaya Bakers' that serves a wide variety of baked goodies and cookies to choose from.

The ideal way to commute within Alleppey would be by autos. The auto drivers were such gentlemen, they did not over charge us even once nor did they refuse to go to any part of the town. This was so much in contrast compared to other touristic destinations where they tend to burn a hole in your wallet.

We were fortunate to have the luxury of viewing lotus flowers in a small artificial pond right in front of our sit out bloom to the early morning sun rays. At the same time, we witnessed a darter dip and swim in the pond, and then bask in sun, providing company to the kingfishers perched on the palm trees making it one of the most beautiful mornings. This blissful experience was possible at  the 'Palmgrove Lake Resort.'

Set on the banks of Punnamada lake, this resort has great aesthetics with comfortable and cozy rooms. They offer 24 hour running hot water and free WiFi. Their service was top-notch. Though we did not try the food at their restaurant, we did go for a cup of Kattan Chai which was excellent. The flip side of this beautiful location was that we had to spend a little more to commute.

The Best of Mysore

Mysore puts one in a spot as it has so much to offer- palaces, zoo, bird sanctuary, temple, church, museums, lip smacking food, art, the list keeps growing... We have compiled a few of the best of Mysore.

Lalitha Mahal Palace: Once a Royal home, now a heritage hotel run by The Ashoka Group, this palace is tucked away from the city en route Chamundi hills. This stunning palace was one of the locations in the famous Rajinikanth movie 'Muthu.' Visitors are charged an entry fee of Rs.100, and you are treated with a delightful cup of hot beverages. One feels the essence of peace and tranquility amidst forest over looking Chamundi hills. Also, you can go back in time and experience royalty by taking a buggy ride around the palace.

 Jaganmohan Palace:  Just a stone's throw away from City Palace is the fine art gallery at Jaganmohan Palace exhibiting phenomenal work of Raja Ravi Varma, artillery, intricate woodwork, extensive ivory artifacts such as comb, stirrer, jewel box, hair pins, board games, hand fan are just a few to list. Life of Buddha depicted on a massive ivory tusk, Japanese painting on silk cloth, work of Shakespeare depicted on silver wall hangings, antique musical instruments, miniature of Ambavilas palace in marble, medieval currency are the other interesting exhibits.

If the above mentioned does not cease to amaze you, check out the exclusive oil painting - "Glow Of Hope" this beautiful painting depicts a women carrying a 'Diya' in one hand and covering the glow with the other hand to protect it from the wind. The artist has captured the ultimate glow through her fingers beautifully. No amount of words can do justice to the painting, we stood there admiring the work in awe. The museum has rightly dedicated an exclusive room with fine aesthetics to portray this exhibit.

To be further surprised, walk towards the first viewing gallery on the ground floor of the museum to witness a 10-feet high French clock, made in 1818, churn it's magic. Every hour the miniature soldiers march around with soft music playing in the background. Every 15 minutes one can hear the clock chime and if you observe closely on the top left corner of the clock, one can see a soldier beating a drum which syncs with the seconds hand of a clock. This clock not only shows the time but also denotes the month, date & day of the calendar year.

Rail Museum: This small museum dedicated to old locomotives is rooted in the corner of the city, right next to the railway station. If you love machines, this place is a must visit. The highlight of the museum is "The Maharani Saloon" - yet another fine example of what royal life is all about. This carriage was exclusively designed to keep the Maharani comfortable with a movable cot, writing table, fans, chandeliers, comfortable bath, great aesthetics, exclusive servant room, followed by another carriage which housed the royal cook and dining area. All of this luxury costed the Royal family Rs.29500 in year 1899.

The 'Travelling Crane' built in 1885 is another engineering marvel exhibited at this museum. This crane could lift weights upto 5 ton and can swivel to 360 degree. This was used during accident and restoration work, best part being this is in perfect working condition.

Saint Philomena Church; Built in Neo Gothic style in 1936, this massive structure stands tall attracting devotees and tourists. Do go there to admire and appreciate the architecture and sheer class of the monument. The special feature of the church is the passage to the basement housing the relic of Saint Phelomena under the main altar.

Chamundi Hills: 15 km from Mysore city is Chamundi hills, the adobe of Chamundeswari. It is one of the most famous and much visited pilgrimage site in Mysore. Apart from spirituality, you have stellar panoramic view of Mysore city. Do stop at the view point to get a bird's eye view of the racecourse, Mysore palace, karanji lake & the city.

The mere fact of visiting any religious place is for solace and inner peace, however, the ground reality is completely different. People push, shove & scream at one another to catch a glimpse of the deity. The drive to Chamundi hills is brilliant, on either side you are treated with lush green forest. On the way back do stop over at Sand Art Museum.

Last but not the least Ambavilas Palace: