Double Decker Root Bridge A Living Legend!

Like the saying goes 'A Journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step,' our long trek to the Double Decker Living Root Bridge in Nongriat village commenced from Tyrna village. The Double Decker Living Root Bridge which is 250 years old is in a remote village 'Nongriat' and is accessible only by trek. There is no doubt that it is a challenging trek involving a steep climb of over 3000 steps. However, let this not keep you away from this place. Despite being a little challenging trek, it is very much doable.

There is a motorable road until Tyrna village and from here a 3 km hike to the Double Decker Living Root Bridge begins. We crossed two tiny villages which have around 40 homes and small shops set up by these villagers served as hearty refreshments stops. The trek took us through some excellent beautiful green forest and two amazing long iron rope bridges that run over crystal clear blue river. The source of the water is of the Nohkalikai falls.

The natural pools formed here are breathtaking. The iron bridge sways when one walks on it and on the very first one we had butterflies in our tummy. For someone who has a fear of heights, it was scary initially but being a water baby the sight of the turquoise blue water was enough to bring a smile and worked like a charm in conquering the fear and crossing the other ones got exciting.

The pathway to the root bridge is almost 99% cemented and the whole trek could be divided into 3 legs. First leg is pretty easy and less time consuming with long and neatly spaced out steps. Second leg is the most challenging as the steps are really small and the descent is almost vertical. One needs to be careful during this second leg as a single mistake could make you tumble down.

As we finished the second leg, we reached a fork and to our right was a single decker living root bridge- "Jingkieng Ri-Tymmen," the longest of all and is 120 year old. The unique thing about this bridge is that it is the only one to take help from two rubber trees. The rest of the root bridges are all offshoots of a single tree. Only a short seven minute walk from the fork leads you to this root bridge. Backtrack to the fork and the path to your left continues to the Double Decker Living Root Bridge. From here it is only 45 minutes and this final leg is not as challenging as the second one.

En route we came across interesting small cemented box like structures and we could spot bees hovering around it. We were told that the smart villagers have opted for an easy way to procure honey that is by trapping the Queen Bee in these cement structures. Obviously the worker bees follow the Queen and start building a beehive collecting nectar making it simple for the villagers. The villagers need not go looking out for honey rather they have made the bees come to their backyard simplifying the process of collecting honey rather than climbing steep ridges and tall trees. These indigenous traps are hard to miss as there are many en route.

This region has abundant bay trees and the entire trek path is covered by dried bay leaves. These flavorful leaves are dried, collected and then sold in the market for as little as Rs.25 per kilogram. We came across villagers wearing tattered or no footwear carrying massive loads trekking all the way. In spite of the hardships that these people face for their daily survival, we still see them wearing a smile on their face going about with their routine. A big contrast to the rest of the so called "urban folks" who have all the comforts and luxuries in life but still seem to wear a frown on their face and find reasons to complain at the slightest chance of discomfort.

As we approached the first iron bridge, we caught a glimpse of an abandoned Living Root Bridge at a distance on our left that runs parallel to the iron bridge. This bridge now defunct was once used by the villagers to cross over the river. Throughout the trek path there are several such amazing surprises and interesting sights that make the whole experience of traveling memorable. This is the beauty of trekking, you never know what wonders are in store for you. These paths takes you deep into less explored territory offering virgin natural beauty at its best. Such experiences make you want to forget everything else, live and enjoy the present moment. Of course, there are others who do not consider the journey worthwhile but are more focused on reaching the destination ruining the entire experience. In the end if they just sulk, whine and complain about how much more distance needs to be covered, its their loss!

Tiny Settlement On The Other Side Of The Hill Was Our Destination

The village of Nongriat welcomed us with an amazing little root bridge and from this little root bridge we were able to catch a glimpse of the majestic Double Decker Living Root Bridge. The work and skill of the village people in growing such a monumental bridge left us spellbound. The ingenious creativity, skill, hard work and most important patience is super amazing.

The lengthy process of creating such a wonder starts with planting a sapling of the rubber tree. Fast forward 25 years, the tree grows and the off shoots are meticulously channelized to the other side with the help of hollow betel nut tree trunks. Slowly and steadily the bridge takes shape and after 25 years is ready for ferrying people for the next 500 years. This feat is nothing less of a miracle.

The Double Decker was not built to attract people from all corners of the world but the whole purpose behind building these monumental living root bridges was to help the villagers cross over rivers. During monsoons, due to the high amount of rainfall this place receives the gentle stream becomes monstrous resulting in floods and the villagers were swept away due to strong currents. To overcome this, the root bridges served as a lifeline during monsoons.

In the case of Nongriat root bridge it so happened that the water levels of the river surpassed the under bridge leaving the villagers helpless and completely cut off again. This resulted in  them building another tier above the bridge and the Double Decker Living Root Bridge came into existence.

After growing popularity of this bridge, to further boost tourism the villagers are creating another monumental feat by growing another tier to this living root bridge from the same tree. This would promote the Double Decker Root Bridge to a colossal and even more unbelievable Triple Decker Living Root Bridge. The root bridges grow in strength every passing day. As of December 2015, the roots have actually reached the other bank. If you want to see how the Living Root Bridges are grown or nurtured, head to Nongriat within the next couple of years.

The calm waters running under the bridge are so crystal clear and serene that it would make a perfect place to kick off your walking shoes, put your feet in cold water, have unending conversations with your loved ones with a view of the root bridge and to add on, enjoy a free fish spa.

The trek does not just end here at the bridge. For the more adventurous souls, a further hike of 3 km and after crossing 2 more living root bridges and 2 iron bridges, a small deviation from the trek path leading to Rainbow Falls took us to an amazing and secluded natural swimming pool. The water here is crystal clear and we could actually see the bottom of the river bed. A very proud moment as Indians that our country has such gem of destinations. No fancy infinity swimming pools at the best of hotels across the world can even come remotely close to such natural beauty.

Natural Ladder 

It is so inviting and would be a sin to not jump in. But be warned that the pools are quiet deep and the under currents are very strong during monsoon. Always respect Nature, don't take chances with your life, you have only one. Another very interesting aspect here is the marine fossils that could be seen on the boulders. Though for this one needs to hike a lot it is totally worth it.


The small cafe at the entrance of Nongriat village serves lunch and thanks to them in this remote location we had piping hot yippie noodles. The villagers are such nice people. They charged  us only Rs.30 for a single plate, given the remoteness of the place, they are at the liberty to charge any exorbitant price.This goes on to show how generous and nice these folks are.

There are only 2 stay options at Nongriat Village on either sides of the root bridge. The first one is 'Serene home stay' (PH: 9436739655/ 9615252655) that charges Rs.300 per bed and food at an additional cost. The other guest house (PH: 8575787340) with 4 rooms that have 2 single beds run by the village community. They charge Rs.400 per room and food here too is available at an additional cost. We did not stay here but had a glimpse of the rooms and they are very basic but provide beautiful views of the living root bridge. Also, imagine having the entire bridge to yourself all day and night. If one is not able to carry their bags, word is porter services can be arranged. The descent is relatively easy compared to the tough and draining steep uphill hike.

Community Guest House

While trekking up from the Double Decker Root Bridge it would be best to climb up slowly and steadily. Set a tempo and try and stick to it. It is a pretty long and time consuming trek and we took 7 hours to complete the entire trek. It would be wise to start early, leisurely enjoy the trek and spend a lot of time at the sights you want. Take adequate breaks and get back to Tyrna village before sunset.

The very first shop at the start of the trek "Bros N Two Sis's Shop" rents out bamboo sticks at Rs.20 each. This would simply be one of the best lifetime investments that you could make. During the hike, this serves as your third leg.

If you really want to visit the Double Decker Root Bridge but have serious health ailments or are differently abled there is still hope and you can visit the bridge. The solution is to request the villagers to carry you in a makeshift palanquin but kindly make sure that the arrangements are made well in advance.

During the entire trek we crossed 6 root bridges apart from the Double Decker Bridge and 3 iron rope bridges. A reliable guide and also POC for porter services and room reservations who prefers to be called "Batman" can be reached at 9856892992/ 9402399350.

Your only other stay option is the amazing "Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort" in Laitkynsew Village. The resort is 5 km away from Tyrna. This is your only and best stay option in the entire region. They have 3 categories of rooms and all rooms are very spacious, have attached bath and 24 hr running hot water. This amazing property is set atop a hill and offers panoramic view of the village. The resort serves excellent food and is managed and run by very professional and courteous locals. They took care of our every single need in the most efficient manner. Since this area is pretty remote, they provide cab from the resort to Tyrna, the start point of the trek and also arrange for guides at nominal charges. Every evening we had bonfire to keep ourselves warm. They also organize local folk music at a cost of Rs.100 per room.

Meghalaya's Offbeat Trail- Nartiang Monoliths

Meghalaya, the land famous for its bio engineering wonder- "The Living Root Bridges" which are many in number and all of them absolutely breathtaking, was the topmost reason we wanted to visit this state. However, our quest for off beat places made sure we explore not just the Root Bridges but other lesser known hidden treasures which are off the tourist radar. One such gem of a find was the 'Nartiang Monoliths' in the Jowai region of Meghalaya and is 80 km from the state capital, Shillong.

You can find monoliths erected pretty much all across the state of Meghalaya. However, the largest cluster of Monoliths can be found at Nartiang Village.

At Nartiang, there are hundreds of monoliths that were erected during the rule of Jaintia Kings between 1500 AD - 1800 AD. The park has a massive cluster of monoliths towering several meters high and massive stone slabs are precariously placed on small stone columns giving us a feel of a massive throne. The vertical stone slabs aka  menhirs (Ki Moo Shynrang) signify male and the horizontal stone slabs signify female aka Dolmens (Ki Moo Kynthai.) We stood there wondering how difficult it would have been to erect such a complex structure. 

Though this site reminded us of Willong Khullen in Manipur, the sheer volume of monoliths here are mind boggling. The tallest one is 8 meters high and 18 inches thick!

The tallest was erected by Mar Phalangki, a lieutenant of the king to mark victory in battle. Legend has it that he tried to erect the monolith several times but failed. It is widely believed that after a human sacrifice he was able to erect the monolith successfully. The ritual of human sacrifice continued for many years and it was only a couple of decades ago that the ritual was banned.

A couple of kilometers away from the monoliths stands an age old pretty looking Durga temple which was infamous for human sacrifices where the severed heads used to roll down a tunnel that opened into the flowing Myntdu River. Though these superstitious beliefs have now been banned, even now unfortunately goats are sacrificed instead of humans. To continue with their superstitions they have gone to the extent of placing a human mask on the goats face before sacrificing it. Like if God existed S/he wouldn't know the difference!

It would be a monumental challenge to get rid of superstitions that are so deeply embedded in Indian society. Even the so called well read and educated folks believe in superstitions and end up ruining lives of their loved ones. Schools and parents should be more responsible and teach children not to believe in assumptions but ask for evidence.

One can club this with a visit to 'Thadlaskein Lake,' a very beautiful lake dug centuries ago by thousands of faithful warriors under the command of 'Sajar Nangli' using nothing else but the tips of their battle bows. The commander in chief had differences with the king of Jaintiapur and hence left the kingdom along with his followers. This was the last but everlasting memorable gift left behind by the warriors to their motherland and people. 

Breezy and wide roads that are in best shape is a boon for any traveler and in our experience Meghalaya offers some of the best and comfortable roads and Nature has generously thrown in very beautiful valleys and landscapes. This region is known for its orange trees and during our trip in December almost all orange trees were in full bloom. We were very tempted to pluck one right off the tree. The entire Nartiang village is very beautiful and dotted with very pretty looking homes and their nurseries. 

On the way to the monoliths our car was stopped by school children who were collecting donation for their school. It was really sweet of them to work tirelessly for the benefit of their school. We happened to meet the Principal and the teachers of the school who had organized a fare for the children to enjoy and have fun. It was a pleasant gesture on their behalf and it looked like a small happy family working together.

On our way back, our cab driver treated us to their local fruit known as Sohphlang, a sour fruit which tasted pretty much like the water chestnut fruit but not as sweet. It was a little sour and was mixed with salt and red chilli powder. This fruit has medicinal properties and is considered very good for all stomach ailments.

All three attractions could be clubbed together and could be done as a one day excursion from Shillong. There is no public transport to this place, hence hiring a car is the only viable option. Also, keep in mind there are no places to stay or dine here so a day pack with snacks and water is must.

Mawlynnong, Gods Own Garden! The Cleanest Village In Asia

Our trip to the much awaited and anticipated Mawlynnong, dubbed as the Cleanest Village in Asia, was a humbling experience to say the least. The route to this village is an absolute delight with wide mountain roads opening up great scenic views, multiple waterfalls, massive pine forests and the beautiful rural homes that are few and far.

The village is home to 90 odd families who take great pride and strive their best to keep their village clean. The village has not by chance earned the title "The Cleanest Village in Asia," it has totally earned it thanks to the grit and determination of the cohesive community. The community comes together as one, collects the waste and cleans the streets with dedication. They do not expect the government to clean up the mess. The village has put up some pretty looking bamboo baskets at every corner that serve as dust bins and they encourage tourists to ensure that they help their village by avoiding dumping of plastics. In case, they see litter lying around and not in the dust bin, they do not blame the tourists nor hold anyone else responsible. They take the onus on themselves to pick up the litter and drop it in its right place- the dust bin. This small act goes on to prove that they have no ego nor do they believe in the playing the blame game. 

Even kids of this village are highly responsible and are active participants not just in cleaning efforts but also ensuring that there is no wastage of drinking water. Lesson for all of us who complain that our Nation is dirty, the bitter truth is it is 'We' who litter. The day we start treating our Nation like our homes, the strong stench and filth will disappear.

The entire village has used solar power to the maximum, all street lights and most of the homes are powered by clean natural energy. This village is a perfect role model in many ways. The absolute no sign of hospitals in the vicinity goes on to prove what a healthy lifestyle they lead. While travelling here, kindly be responsible and do not litter around. Mawlynnong and other such clean places must be the role model for Swacch Bharat Mission and a pride of India.

It is shocking that the cleanest village is part of the same country whose capital is declared 'Unfit for human living' due to high pollution levels. The biggest question here is 'Have we defined development truly and correctly?' Building more power plants to meet growing energy needs, burning exorbitant amount of fossil fuel on a daily basis, having great roadways and fancy bridges over oceans and other such superficial developments define a country's growth? We are not thinking about the long term harmful repercussions that our so called urbanization is causing.

So are we falsely convincing ourselves that we actually have progressed? The devastating carbon footprints left behind is a good wake-up call for us to rethink our strategy and try all natural alternatives to sustain our life on this planet.

The village has beautifully cemented pathways that took us into deep forests offering amazing landscapes. There are several massive watch towers made from bamboo that towers several meters high offering scintillating bird's eye view of the village. We were out on long walks but we did not feel an ounce of fatigue. We never got tired walking on these beautiful paths. Our legs never gave up and in fact we wanted to walk more. All thanks to this pollution free serene village. Nature has been very kind and blessed the village with great flora and fauna. While on the trek path, several beautiful species of butterflies fluttered around. One of the many benefits of exploring a place by foot are the many natural wonders that are hidden away from the eyes of vehicles that whistle by.

Another interesting feat in Mawlynnong, is the massive balancing rock that seems to mysteriously balance itself on a very small rock. 10 bucks is all it takes to catch a glimpse of this. It is surprising how after all these years it has still managed to balance itself.

Apart from being a very clean and friendly village in a remote part of India, Mawlynnong offers one of the best natural wonder, Rewai Living Root Bridge, which is only 2 km from the village.

The village also houses a beautiful church which was beautifully lit up in the evenings as we were lucky enough to be there during Christmas celebrations. The day would end melodiously with the kids of the village singing Christmas carols in the church and gearing up for the big day.

The place is so remote that they do not have any retail or grocery shops. Most of the villagers tend to grown basic fruits and vegetables in their backyards. The rest are purchased from a van that arrives once a week to the village stocked up with all vegetables and fruits.

During our 5 days stay in this village we looked no further than this little restaurant with no name in the parking lot, very efficiently run by women. They serve only lunch and have a very limited menu. One could choose to have veg, chicken, fish or egg with rice and vegetables accompanied by dal, salad and chutney (traditional mix of grated tomatoes chopped onions, green chillies and coriander leaves.) This goes really well with the meal. We tried everything in the menu and none disappointed us. They are very reasonably priced considering the remoteness of this village. A heavy lunch for two costs around Rs.300.

The villagers have come up with great and comfortable home stay options at an affordable price. In total there are 5 home-stay options as of December 2015 and we could see construction of a few underway.

Our charming little home stay majorly made of locally procured natural material was our home for 4 nights. Set in the edge of this secluded village, sandwiched between a church and the football field, this awesome home stay surrounded by hundreds of plants is run by a lovely family who have no degree from hospitality industry but with their charming smile and big hearts gave us a home like feel that even the most expensive and best of hotels we had stayed in could not match up to and add to this the language barrier and communication gap. This just proves professionalism is not based on the degrees you have. The spacious cottage has an attached bath and 24 running water facility. Whenever we needed hot water, they were willing to provide buckets of boiling hot water with a smile.

They were kind enough to ask for our food preferences and provide the best they could. The great advantage of staying in this home stay is we got a chance to relish authentic Khasi delicacies and aunt being such an amazing cook, we were feasting on all the days. Our personal favorite was her fish fry, black sesame dal and deep fried brinjal. Within seconds piping hot food came straight to our plates from the kitchen. The dessert served were not high calorie pastries but healthy and naturally sweet-juicy papaya and pineapples.

Delicious meals are served in their small living rooms and they are happy to serve extra portions. During our stay here, we used to take our breakfast out and sit on the football field, bask in the sun and enjoy our first meal of the day. Having such memories made us feel we were really rich not in monetary terms but for the memories that light up our lives in such remote locations. The name of the guest house is Harud Wahduid "Brookside" Mawlynnong. Contact No- 8575440446.

We had such a nice time in the village that from the initial 4 days we extended our stay by one more day. If you don't have your own vehicle the only way out of the village is to share a ride with villagers in a sumo which leaves everyday at 6 AM except on Sundays. A seat to Shillong is priced at Rs 200. Keep in mind in total only 3 sumos ply at different times during the day. The other option is to hire a private taxi but the prices are steep and the minimum charge being Rs 2200.

On our way back to Shillong, we came across a fishing competition that was happening in full swing it was surprising to see the number of contestants and the seriousness involved in this sport.

Travelling teaches you a lot of life lessons and we learnt how blessed and fortunate we were to have an array of public and private transportation at our disposal yet we complain about the traffic, faulty AC's, no vacant seats and the likes. For the villagers of Mawlynnong commuting to the State capital Shillong is a daunting and risky task. There are only 3 sumos that play for the 90 families. In a sumo with a seating capacity of 11 there were 20 of us plus our luggage. There were 4 of us sitting on the front seat plus the driver! There were ten more inside the taxi and 5 sitting on the roof, yet we did not see anybody complain or frown. In fact they were happy to make space for fellow passengers. Though the locals seem to laugh it off and adjust this could very quickly turn into a disaster. While this shows their generosity it reflects on the apathy of the state government.

So for a perfect relaxing vacation, head out to the cleanest village today and make memories.