Our Slow Backpacking Travel Experience Across South East Asia!

It was time for us to set out on yet another memorable long trip but this trip would be nothing like our previous ones, not in the comfort of our homeland. The trip focused on South East Asian countries and we finally zeroed down on visiting Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand and Myanmar for 75 days in all. The different culture, people, fantastic food, language barriers and challenges that came with this Asia trip was just the perfect travel experience that we were longing for.

It was a smooth sail and we had the most amazing experiences where we got to spend a night on a cruise, fired an AK 47 at a Gun Range, kayaked in deep blue waters, swam into a dark cave with just a helmet mounted torchlight. The stunning architecture distinct to these Nations was visible in their palaces, temples and monasteries. Their beaches and islands showed us the stunning natural beauty that these nations have to offer. We also were able to experience some extreme weather conditions from being blazing hot to continuous rains for days to experiencing the after effects of a typhoon. Their museums gave us more insight into their past and we learnt so much more about their History. We also had our first dormitory experience in one of the hostels and this trip was not just an amazing journey but a great teacher as well.

We started our trip with Cambodia, the land of ancient Hindu temples and fell in love with not just the Angkor Wat temple but the beautiful temples surrounding the complex. Though these temples are not much in the limelight, we feel they are way more deserving than the Angkor Wat itself. The other beautiful highlight of Cambodia was the stunning Koh Rong Samolem island. This beautiful island with crystal clear water was the most spectacular experience. Getting to meet so many lovely people from across the Globe and going for a swim under the cover of darkness at the Plankton Beach was definitely a trip highlight. We ended up snorkeling and fishing while on a boat and feasting on barbecued fish right on the boat - an experience that we can never forget.

While in Phnom Penh, on one hand we witnessed the amazing water festival and on the other we learnt about the depressing past that still haunts this wonderful Nation. A visit to Killing Fields and S21 Prison showed a glimpse of the terrible times and what the people had been through making our eyes moist. Under the Khmer Rogue rule, the atrocities committed by them were gut wrenching. The mass killings by the regime lead to the death of close to 2-3 million people (25% of Cambodia's population) just because they were educated or were not following the ideologies laid out by the communist Khmer Rogue.

After spending 15 days, with a heavy heart we bid adieu to Cambodia and flew into Vietnam. We wouldn't even know where to start with the awesomeness of Vietnam. The cruise on stunning Bai Tu Long Bay, beautiful Tra Ang grottoes, heart stopping caves of Phong Nha, rich history of Hoi An, lovely beaches of Nha Trang and the chaos of Ho Chi Minh city was a complete package. The sheer number of UNESCO world heritage sites, cool coconuts, pagodas, Palaces and amazing local beers literally made our 30 days in Vietnam feel like 3 minutes. Also, not to forget trying out the local cuisine and instantly falling in love with their sinful coffee so much so that we became coffee addicts and we are not really coffee drinkers. The coffee is so amazing here that we picked up 2 kilograms of coffee powder and two very beautiful and cute Vietnamese coffee filters. Though we experienced stormy weather in Vietnam, we still managed to enjoy the cultural history that the Nation has to offer in the beautiful city of Hoi An.

These beautiful places are so pristine, it is difficult to digest that some of these places were bombed on a daily basis for close to 20 years by Uncle Sam. The courage and valor of these people needs to be saluted.

We also got a glimpse of the harsh reality of the Vietnam War and the repercussions that the war has left on the people of Vietnam. Many parts of the country are still suffering due to the unrepairable damages caused by the war and the atrocities carried out during the war. The museum in Ho Chi Minh city displays photographs wherein many regions have suffered due to the toxic chemical sprays (Agent Orange) and the deformities that people are now born with. These pictures are pretty graphic and not for the faint-heart. While most of us were in tears reading the atrocities carried out, it is unimaginable to even think that these people are still suffering and for no fault of theirs. Human mind can think of such inhumane things and not have a bit of remorse is shameful.

After 45 days of strict budget backpacking, it was time to pamper ourselves on the beautiful islands of Thailand with creature comforts and we did not have to look far. The calm and serene Koh Yao Yai island off Krabi would come second to none. Koh Yao Yai offered perfectly calm, secluded beaches that we had pretty much to ourselves the entire time.

All the 3 nations have amazing local breweries that dish out inexpensive and the best beer on the planet. It was a very budgeted trip and while in Cambodia we managed to travel by local buses, in Vietnam we preferred the train services. Despite opting for some pricey excursions- Bai Tu Long, Trang An, Angkor Wat, plenty of foreigner priced entry tickets, internal flights, plenty of walk and public transport and very few cabs, we managed to spend almost the same amount or less had we been travelling in our homeland. In none of these countries we opted for local sim cards. One could also do the same trip in a way lesser budget.

Due to prior commitments, Reshma flew back home while Ram continued the journey to the beautiful Burmese Land- Myanmar.

While travelling to Myanmar, it was on the news for all wrong reasons and it still is but it was simply the best travel destination in South East Asia. In my experience, Burmese people were really nice, warm and welcoming. Though it might sound cliché, it was truly the warmth of these people that made me fall in love with this Nation. Will dedicate detailed post about the issues the country is facing (political/Rohingya crisis.)

Myanmar took me back in time with it's laid back and chilled out life. While the lovely city of Mandalay welcomed me with some historic monuments and lip smacking food, a hand written train ticket took me on an adventurous train ride over the breathtaking Giotduct bridge and this train journey is a must. The colonial homes in the lovely hills of Pyin ya Loo were enchanting and one of them now converted into a hostel was my home for 4 days where I did nothing but enjoy the pleasant climate, cycle around and soak in the scenery. Of course, Myanmar experience is incomplete without visiting the mighty Bagan pagodas and monasteries and it was out of the world. Watching the sunrise over these ancient monuments was an icing on the cake. Finally, I wound up my trip in Yangon and after 75 days was back to home sweet home.

Individual posts on each destination that will help plan your future trips to South East Asia will be up on the blog shortly!

Meghalaya's Natural Wonder- The Laitlum Canyons!

Meghalaya has enchanted us with her beauty and we were in love with the sunning landscape, amazing roads and the perfect relaxing environment that the state has to offer. The best experience was undoubtedly our visit to Laitlum Canyons which holds true to it's name "End of Hills." This beautiful location in East Khasi Hills is an amazing hot spot to catch views of the hills of Meghalaya. A 45 minute drive and some 30 odd kilometers from the capital, Shillong, this lesser known destination can be reached via Smit Village.

On a cloudy and misty day, we were the only tourists here barring a few locals who had come there for a picnic. We were taken aback by the beautiful gorges and valleys that this place had to offer. The lush greenery around, mountains hugging each other and a tiny stream flowing between the valley was breath taking. We stood at the edge of the hill soaking in panoramic views.

The tiny settlement amidst the vast green top canyons is a sight to behold. We walked around and climbed down the winding steep rock cut steps leading us down to Rasom village that has about 350 residents in total. This path of around 3000 steps through bamboo plantations and wild orchid groves is probably the only way for these villagers use to commute to the Capital. We came across a rope pulley that is till date used by the villagers to transport food and other commodities to their village. The rope pulley looked very antique and was made of bamboo and we were glad that it was not used to ferry people but only for goods.

We were there on a Sunday morning and the church prayers echoed around the entire valley. Though Nature kept us in tender hooks with mist engulfing the canyons and thick clouds hovering over, intermittently we had stunning views spending around two wonderful hours. It is a perfect place to beat the fast paced life of city. A paradise for nature lovers and trekkers. It would be a good idea to come here early in the morning if you are planning on trekking down all the way to Rasom village.

En route to Laitlum Canyons we were very fortunate to see two bulls slugging it out. We happened to be driving around at the right time. We stopped our vehicle and saw the entire fight with the villagers cheering their favorite bull. Nervous final moments of the fight, one bull literally stomped over the other earning a thumping victory. The villagers do this in order to pick the best and strongest bull for mating. It was a nail biting moment and we were glad to have been an audience to this brilliant moment. This would not fall under "Animal Cruelty" like Matador. Bulls are cared for and loved in India and for ages have been integral part of farming families. Across India many sporting activities take place year round to identify best quality stud bulls for mating and keeping alive excellent and healthy breeds.

There are not many public transport options to reach Laitlum Canyons but taxi rides can be easily arranged from Shillong. A bumpy cab ride to and from Shillong costed us Rs 1100. A meager Rs 20 is collected as entry fee for vehicle. If you want to feel tipsy you can stop en-route and taste the locally brewed rice beer. This place is a blessing for travelers as it is not exposed to commercialism yet.

Abode of Stunning Waterfalls & Caves- Cherrapunji!

The last leg of our 50 day backpacking trip across Nagaland, Manipur and Meghalaya took us through some of the extremely beautiful rural villages of India and what better way for a grand finale than a stop over at Cherrapunji. A place that held the title of "The Wettest Place On Earth" for years is now in competition with Mawsynram for the title. A friendly tug of war for the title 'wettest place' is for sometime going on between Cherrapunji and Mawsynram.

Meghalaya is famous for a number of scenic waterfalls, natural living root bridges, caves and some brilliant landscapes. This journey around Cherrapunji on beautiful mountain roads with stunning green scenic valleys, monoliths and very few homes on the way makes you feel like you are in a different country.

Cherrapunji aka Sohra has some incredible attractions and can be done as a day trip. But apart from these attractions Meghalaya is famous for Living Root Bridges, the only one of its kind in the whole World with the most famous and challenging to reach is the 'Double Decker Root Bridge.' This incredible man made Natural wonder is in Nongriat Village, 20 km from Cherrapunji, and can be reached by trekking over 3500 steps. The trek takes anywhere between 2 - 2.5 hours down and 3- 4 hours to climb up. It would require an overnight stay at Tyrna village as it is not feasible to do a day trip from Shillong.

Cherrapunji is also home to the incredible Nohkalikai Falls, the tallest plunge waterfall in India. It was a mesmerizing sight to watch water cascade down the hills over a height of 1100 feet and plunge into a deep blue natural pool formed at the base of the falls. Even when she is not at her full throttle, it is still captivating and makes you fall in love with Nature. Standing in the viewing gallery we promised ourselves we would be back during monsoon to experience her splendor.

Nohkalikai in Khasi means "Jump of Ka Likai." The story is that a widowed women 'Ka Likai' remarried and her second husband was jealous of her daughter as she would spend most of her time looking after her girl. While, she was at work, he killed the daughter and prepared a meal from her flesh. Upon returning from work, Ka Likai who was hungry finished her meal. Only later, she found her daughter's severed fingers lying around and realized what happened. Unable to control her anger and grief, she plunged to death from the same cliff and the falls has been named after her.

Right adjacent to the view point of Nokalikai Falls small shops set up by villagers sell organic local herbs, spices, pure mountain honey and something similar to a bark of tree. Looking at the sheer size of the bark, we could have never guessed that they were actually selling nothing but 'Dalchini' (Cinnamon.) This amazing spice with medicinal property was being sold at dirt cheap price. At the parking lot, we got a taste of organic fruits from one of the local stalls. They were selling farm fresh fruits neatly cut and plated in leaves. For the very first time in our lives we tasted wild bananas that had seeds the size of pepper corn. It was an awesome experience to relish juicy fruits with the views of the amazing waterfalls.

Meghalaya has plenty of caves to boast and many of them are totally unexplored and un-mapped. Some of these magnificent caves are believed to be the largest in Asia if not the whole World. Cave exploration is yet to take off here with just one initiative taken by the Government of Meghalaya. While most of the caves require proper cave exploration equipment and the guidance of an experienced explorer, Mawsmai cave gives commoners like us an awesome experience of wriggling around and exploring a well lit and traveller friendly cave, minimizing any risk. An entry fee of Rs.20 per head gave us access to this amazing limestone cave. We felt like we were teleported to another World. A relatively large entrance continued to steadily shrink and at one point we had to squeeze ourselves through certain parts.

The stalactites were such amazing work of Nature that certain sections looked like sets of the movie Star wars. The total 150 meter experience unfolds very unique and amazing stalactites and stalagmites formations. Kindly do not wander off the designated trek path as the other larger sections of the caves are cordoned off and are not lit up. It is very easy to get lost and you can forget about any rescue or help arriving.

The exit of the cave is very small and narrow. As we stepped out we were so overwhelmed by the fact that despite having trekked down the 150 meter it was quite unbelievable to imagine that a massive cave lay in front of us. The entire section was completely covered by wilderness.

There are quite a few good restaurants around the caves and it would be the best place to break for lunch.

During our visit to Meghalaya unfortunately the much hyped seven sister waterfalls or Nohsngithiang Waterfalls was dry. It is said that sighting a rainbow here is pretty common which makes this place even more scenic with the water cascading down the hills surrounded by lush greenery and the rainbow in the backdrop. This definitely calls for making another trip to Meghalaya to experience it at its best- during the monsoons.

Apart from the two massive well known falls another falls en route Cherrapunji is the 'Wah Kaba Falls.' A ten minute hike from the main road took us to a view point from where we could see her in full flow.

Another interesting stop over en route is Ramakrishna mission. The place, the person who set it up and his mentor needs no introduction. Their Legacy lives on! "Awake, Arise and Stop Not Till The Goal Is Reached."

While you visit Cherrapunji, try and figure out if it is the weekly market day. A congregation of massive number of local farmers sell a wide range of products here and the best among them are super sweet oranges. It is a must try as this part of the country is very famous for the yummy oranges and is named after it too.

Another product in the market drew our attention- we were baffled to see locals selling a very different looking leaf that was pretty large in size. In a matter of few seconds our curiosity was put to rest. They were nothing but tobacco leaves and a couple of seconds more, we could feel the strong scent of tobacco.

It would be perfect to visit all the places of interest and then head to Tyrna village, the basecamp for the Double decker Living Root Bridge and retire for the day. Early morning next day, would be perfect for the hike to the Root Bridge.

Meghalaya's Offbeat Trail- Nartiang Monoliths

Meghalaya, the land famous for its bio engineering wonder- "The Living Root Bridges" which are many in number and all of them absolutely breathtaking, was the topmost reason we wanted to visit this state. However, our quest for off beat places made sure we explore not just the Root Bridges but other lesser known hidden treasures which are off the tourist radar. One such gem of a find was the 'Nartiang Monoliths' in the Jowai region of Meghalaya and is 80 km from the state capital, Shillong.

You can find monoliths erected pretty much all across the state of Meghalaya. However, the largest cluster of Monoliths can be found at Nartiang Village.

At Nartiang, there are hundreds of monoliths that were erected during the rule of Jaintia Kings between 1500 AD - 1800 AD. The park has a massive cluster of monoliths towering several meters high and massive stone slabs are precariously placed on small stone columns giving us a feel of a massive throne. The vertical stone slabs aka  menhirs (Ki Moo Shynrang) signify male and the horizontal stone slabs signify female aka Dolmens (Ki Moo Kynthai.) We stood there wondering how difficult it would have been to erect such a complex structure. 

Though this site reminded us of Willong Khullen in Manipur, the sheer volume of monoliths here are mind boggling. The tallest one is 8 meters high and 18 inches thick!

The tallest was erected by Mar Phalangki, a lieutenant of the king to mark victory in battle. Legend has it that he tried to erect the monolith several times but failed. It is widely believed that after a human sacrifice he was able to erect the monolith successfully. The ritual of human sacrifice continued for many years and it was only a couple of decades ago that the ritual was banned.

A couple of kilometers away from the monoliths stands an age old pretty looking Durga temple which was infamous for human sacrifices where the severed heads used to roll down a tunnel that opened into the flowing Myntdu River. Though these superstitious beliefs have now been banned, even now unfortunately goats are sacrificed instead of humans. To continue with their superstitions they have gone to the extent of placing a human mask on the goats face before sacrificing it. Like if God existed S/he wouldn't know the difference!

It would be a monumental challenge to get rid of superstitions that are so deeply embedded in Indian society. Even the so called well read and educated folks believe in superstitions and end up ruining lives of their loved ones. Schools and parents should be more responsible and teach children not to believe in assumptions but ask for evidence.

One can club this with a visit to 'Thadlaskein Lake,' a very beautiful lake dug centuries ago by thousands of faithful warriors under the command of 'Sajar Nangli' using nothing else but the tips of their battle bows. The commander in chief had differences with the king of Jaintiapur and hence left the kingdom along with his followers. This was the last but everlasting memorable gift left behind by the warriors to their motherland and people. 

Breezy and wide roads that are in best shape is a boon for any traveler and in our experience Meghalaya offers some of the best and comfortable roads and Nature has generously thrown in very beautiful valleys and landscapes. This region is known for its orange trees and during our trip in December almost all orange trees were in full bloom. We were very tempted to pluck one right off the tree. The entire Nartiang village is very beautiful and dotted with very pretty looking homes and their nurseries. 

On the way to the monoliths our car was stopped by school children who were collecting donation for their school. It was really sweet of them to work tirelessly for the benefit of their school. We happened to meet the Principal and the teachers of the school who had organized a fare for the children to enjoy and have fun. It was a pleasant gesture on their behalf and it looked like a small happy family working together.

On our way back, our cab driver treated us to their local fruit known as Sohphlang, a sour fruit which tasted pretty much like the water chestnut fruit but not as sweet. It was a little sour and was mixed with salt and red chilli powder. This fruit has medicinal properties and is considered very good for all stomach ailments.

All three attractions could be clubbed together and could be done as a one day excursion from Shillong. There is no public transport to this place, hence hiring a car is the only viable option. Also, keep in mind there are no places to stay or dine here so a day pack with snacks and water is must.

Magical Deep Blue Reflection of Umngot River At Dawki!

Meghalaya, aptly named as "Abode of the Clouds," is a gateway to paradise! The abundant natural beauty of this state surely takes one's breath away and makes one want to settle down here. It is a perfect dream destination with forests, mountains, valleys, caves, rivers, lakes and above all brilliant roads leading to numerous treasured corners.



One such natural wonder of Meghalaya is Dawki, which is known for its crystal clear blue water of Umngot river. Having seen a picture of a lone fishermen on his shikara or fishing boat on crystal clear turquoise blue water, we learnt that it was taken at Dawki, a border town in Meghalaya. This picture was fresh in our minds while planning our North East trip and we were dead sure that this place would definitely be in our travel itinerary.

The drive to Dwaki from the state capital Shillong is a blessing with beautiful curvaceous roads that provide stunning views of valleys and waterfalls on the way. The condition of the roads is unlike other North Eastern states which makes them less accessible.

Throughout the journey, tall, thin Betel Nut trees bearing bright orange fruit which is the main ingredient of North East folks favorite pastime "Chewing Pan," can be found in abundance. Betel nut cultivation seems to be pretty lucrative as not just the locals in North East India consume it in large quantities but it is also exported widely.

We definitely were not disappointed on reaching Dawki. Lying on the India Bangladesh border is Dawki, home to Umngot river which is an absolute natural wonder. No pictures can do justice to this place offering a view of the Umngot river. There are many rivers where we take a glass boat ride to enjoy marine life or natural beauty and then there are few pristine rivers like Umngot river, where the river itself is like a glass boat. Hiring a boat for a short ride on this stunning river should be in the to do list of any traveller. The river is so charming and charismatic that it attracted us like a magnet and provided a crystal clear view of the river bed and marine life. The deep blue river elegantly snakes through the deep gorges and the tiny wooden boats fishing here are a breathtaking sight.

We could draw parallels to the amazing experience we had in Phuket while canoeing hidden lagoons. The only thing missing were the amazing caves.

Umngot river marks the separation between Khasi and Janatia hills. The river was more a natural border separating India and Bangladesh. An age old small suspension bridge runs above the river connecting the two countries. The amateur bridge can accommodate only one vehicle at a time and the road leads to Bangladesh.

A short drive from the bridge we reached the International border check post separating India and Bangladesh. The friendly BSF personnel patrolling the border were kind enough to let us in the no man's land giving us great assurance of the Indian Army having our backs. It was indeed nice to take a peek into Bangladesh, once part of Incredible India and then briefly married to Pakistan ended up getting an ugly divorce and since then has been consistently contributing mass illegal immigrants into India.

Considering the number of illegal immigrants in our nation from Bangladesh, it was quiet surprising to see this border pretty relaxed. The border towns here seemed to happily co-exist with not too much of security or fencing across the border. However, the reality seems different and of course the number of illegal immigrants speak a different story altogether. 

This town also hosts a weekly market where people from both the countries come and sell their goods. It becomes difficult to keep a tab of the number of locals crossing the border to attend the market and also it seemed pretty easy to cross over the Umngot river and enter India with few officers manning the banks of the river. Wish we had stricter laws and more security at the border that would avoid illegal immigrants crossing over.

There is no reliable public transport to and from Dawki so it would be a wise idea to hire a private taxi from Shillong to Dawki. Also, keep in mind there are no places to dine or stay in Dawki. At a distance of 90 km, it can be done as a day trip from Shillong. On the other hand, you could also do what we did. Head to Mawlynnong, dubbed as the cleanest village in Asia, which has plenty of stay options and is only 40 km from Dawki.