Meghalaya's Offbeat Trail- Nartiang Monoliths

Meghalaya, the land famous for its bio engineering wonder- "The Living Root Bridges" which are many in number and all of them absolutely breathtaking, was the topmost reason we wanted to visit this state. However, our quest for off beat places made sure we explore not just the Root Bridges but other lesser known hidden treasures which are off the tourist radar. One such gem of a find was the 'Nartiang Monoliths' in the Jowai region of Meghalaya and is 80 km from the state capital, Shillong.

You can find monoliths erected pretty much all across the state of Meghalaya. However, the largest cluster of Monoliths can be found at Nartiang Village.

At Nartiang, there are hundreds of monoliths that were erected during the rule of Jaintia Kings between 1500 AD - 1800 AD. The park has a massive cluster of monoliths towering several meters high and massive stone slabs are precariously placed on small stone columns giving us a feel of a massive throne. The vertical stone slabs aka  menhirs (Ki Moo Shynrang) signify male and the horizontal stone slabs signify female aka Dolmens (Ki Moo Kynthai.) We stood there wondering how difficult it would have been to erect such a complex structure. 

Though this site reminded us of Willong Khullen in Manipur, the sheer volume of monoliths here are mind boggling. The tallest one is 8 meters high and 18 inches thick!

The tallest was erected by Mar Phalangki, a lieutenant of the king to mark victory in battle. Legend has it that he tried to erect the monolith several times but failed. It is widely believed that after a human sacrifice he was able to erect the monolith successfully. The ritual of human sacrifice continued for many years and it was only a couple of decades ago that the ritual was banned.

A couple of kilometers away from the monoliths stands an age old pretty looking Durga temple which was infamous for human sacrifices where the severed heads used to roll down a tunnel that opened into the flowing Myntdu River. Though these superstitious beliefs have now been banned, even now unfortunately goats are sacrificed instead of humans. To continue with their superstitions they have gone to the extent of placing a human mask on the goats face before sacrificing it. Like if God existed S/he wouldn't know the difference!

It would be a monumental challenge to get rid of superstitions that are so deeply embedded in Indian society. Even the so called well read and educated folks believe in superstitions and end up ruining lives of their loved ones. Schools and parents should be more responsible and teach children not to believe in assumptions but ask for evidence.

One can club this with a visit to 'Thadlaskein Lake,' a very beautiful lake dug centuries ago by thousands of faithful warriors under the command of 'Sajar Nangli' using nothing else but the tips of their battle bows. The commander in chief had differences with the king of Jaintiapur and hence left the kingdom along with his followers. This was the last but everlasting memorable gift left behind by the warriors to their motherland and people. 

Breezy and wide roads that are in best shape is a boon for any traveler and in our experience Meghalaya offers some of the best and comfortable roads and Nature has generously thrown in very beautiful valleys and landscapes. This region is known for its orange trees and during our trip in December almost all orange trees were in full bloom. We were very tempted to pluck one right off the tree. The entire Nartiang village is very beautiful and dotted with very pretty looking homes and their nurseries. 

On the way to the monoliths our car was stopped by school children who were collecting donation for their school. It was really sweet of them to work tirelessly for the benefit of their school. We happened to meet the Principal and the teachers of the school who had organized a fare for the children to enjoy and have fun. It was a pleasant gesture on their behalf and it looked like a small happy family working together.

On our way back, our cab driver treated us to their local fruit known as Sohphlang, a sour fruit which tasted pretty much like the water chestnut fruit but not as sweet. It was a little sour and was mixed with salt and red chilli powder. This fruit has medicinal properties and is considered very good for all stomach ailments.

All three attractions could be clubbed together and could be done as a one day excursion from Shillong. There is no public transport to this place, hence hiring a car is the only viable option. Also, keep in mind there are no places to stay or dine here so a day pack with snacks and water is must.

Mawlynnong, Gods Own Garden! The Cleanest Village In Asia

Our trip to the much awaited and anticipated Mawlynnong, dubbed as the Cleanest Village in Asia, was a humbling experience to say the least. The route to this village is an absolute delight with wide mountain roads opening up great scenic views, multiple waterfalls, massive pine forests and the beautiful rural homes that are few and far.

The village is home to 90 odd families who take great pride and strive their best to keep their village clean. The village has not by chance earned the title "The Cleanest Village in Asia," it has totally earned it thanks to the grit and determination of the cohesive community. The community comes together as one, collects the waste and cleans the streets with dedication. They do not expect the government to clean up the mess. The village has put up some pretty looking bamboo baskets at every corner that serve as dust bins and they encourage tourists to ensure that they help their village by avoiding dumping of plastics. In case, they see litter lying around and not in the dust bin, they do not blame the tourists nor hold anyone else responsible. They take the onus on themselves to pick up the litter and drop it in its right place- the dust bin. This small act goes on to prove that they have no ego nor do they believe in the playing the blame game. 

Even kids of this village are highly responsible and are active participants not just in cleaning efforts but also ensuring that there is no wastage of drinking water. Lesson for all of us who complain that our Nation is dirty, the bitter truth is it is 'We' who litter. The day we start treating our Nation like our homes, the strong stench and filth will disappear.

The entire village has used solar power to the maximum, all street lights and most of the homes are powered by clean natural energy. This village is a perfect role model in many ways. The absolute no sign of hospitals in the vicinity goes on to prove what a healthy lifestyle they lead. While travelling here, kindly be responsible and do not litter around. Mawlynnong and other such clean places must be the role model for Swacch Bharat Mission and a pride of India.

It is shocking that the cleanest village is part of the same country whose capital is declared 'Unfit for human living' due to high pollution levels. The biggest question here is 'Have we defined development truly and correctly?' Building more power plants to meet growing energy needs, burning exorbitant amount of fossil fuel on a daily basis, having great roadways and fancy bridges over oceans and other such superficial developments define a country's growth? We are not thinking about the long term harmful repercussions that our so called urbanization is causing.

So are we falsely convincing ourselves that we actually have progressed? The devastating carbon footprints left behind is a good wake-up call for us to rethink our strategy and try all natural alternatives to sustain our life on this planet.

The village has beautifully cemented pathways that took us into deep forests offering amazing landscapes. There are several massive watch towers made from bamboo that towers several meters high offering scintillating bird's eye view of the village. We were out on long walks but we did not feel an ounce of fatigue. We never got tired walking on these beautiful paths. Our legs never gave up and in fact we wanted to walk more. All thanks to this pollution free serene village. Nature has been very kind and blessed the village with great flora and fauna. While on the trek path, several beautiful species of butterflies fluttered around. One of the many benefits of exploring a place by foot are the many natural wonders that are hidden away from the eyes of vehicles that whistle by.

Another interesting feat in Mawlynnong, is the massive balancing rock that seems to mysteriously balance itself on a very small rock. 10 bucks is all it takes to catch a glimpse of this. It is surprising how after all these years it has still managed to balance itself.

Apart from being a very clean and friendly village in a remote part of India, Mawlynnong offers one of the best natural wonder, Rewai Living Root Bridge, which is only 2 km from the village.

The village also houses a beautiful church which was beautifully lit up in the evenings as we were lucky enough to be there during Christmas celebrations. The day would end melodiously with the kids of the village singing Christmas carols in the church and gearing up for the big day.

The place is so remote that they do not have any retail or grocery shops. Most of the villagers tend to grown basic fruits and vegetables in their backyards. The rest are purchased from a van that arrives once a week to the village stocked up with all vegetables and fruits.

During our 5 days stay in this village we looked no further than this little restaurant with no name in the parking lot, very efficiently run by women. They serve only lunch and have a very limited menu. One could choose to have veg, chicken, fish or egg with rice and vegetables accompanied by dal, salad and chutney (traditional mix of grated tomatoes chopped onions, green chillies and coriander leaves.) This goes really well with the meal. We tried everything in the menu and none disappointed us. They are very reasonably priced considering the remoteness of this village. A heavy lunch for two costs around Rs.300.

The villagers have come up with great and comfortable home stay options at an affordable price. In total there are 5 home-stay options as of December 2015 and we could see construction of a few underway.

Our charming little home stay majorly made of locally procured natural material was our home for 4 nights. Set in the edge of this secluded village, sandwiched between a church and the football field, this awesome home stay surrounded by hundreds of plants is run by a lovely family who have no degree from hospitality industry but with their charming smile and big hearts gave us a home like feel that even the most expensive and best of hotels we had stayed in could not match up to and add to this the language barrier and communication gap. This just proves professionalism is not based on the degrees you have. The spacious cottage has an attached bath and 24 running water facility. Whenever we needed hot water, they were willing to provide buckets of boiling hot water with a smile.

They were kind enough to ask for our food preferences and provide the best they could. The great advantage of staying in this home stay is we got a chance to relish authentic Khasi delicacies and aunt being such an amazing cook, we were feasting on all the days. Our personal favorite was her fish fry, black sesame dal and deep fried brinjal. Within seconds piping hot food came straight to our plates from the kitchen. The dessert served were not high calorie pastries but healthy and naturally sweet-juicy papaya and pineapples.

Delicious meals are served in their small living rooms and they are happy to serve extra portions. During our stay here, we used to take our breakfast out and sit on the football field, bask in the sun and enjoy our first meal of the day. Having such memories made us feel we were really rich not in monetary terms but for the memories that light up our lives in such remote locations. The name of the guest house is Harud Wahduid "Brookside" Mawlynnong. Contact No- 8575440446.

We had such a nice time in the village that from the initial 4 days we extended our stay by one more day. If you don't have your own vehicle the only way out of the village is to share a ride with villagers in a sumo which leaves everyday at 6 AM except on Sundays. A seat to Shillong is priced at Rs 200. Keep in mind in total only 3 sumos ply at different times during the day. The other option is to hire a private taxi but the prices are steep and the minimum charge being Rs 2200.

On our way back to Shillong, we came across a fishing competition that was happening in full swing it was surprising to see the number of contestants and the seriousness involved in this sport.

Travelling teaches you a lot of life lessons and we learnt how blessed and fortunate we were to have an array of public and private transportation at our disposal yet we complain about the traffic, faulty AC's, no vacant seats and the likes. For the villagers of Mawlynnong commuting to the State capital Shillong is a daunting and risky task. There are only 3 sumos that play for the 90 families. In a sumo with a seating capacity of 11 there were 20 of us plus our luggage. There were 4 of us sitting on the front seat plus the driver! There were ten more inside the taxi and 5 sitting on the roof, yet we did not see anybody complain or frown. In fact they were happy to make space for fellow passengers. Though the locals seem to laugh it off and adjust this could very quickly turn into a disaster. While this shows their generosity it reflects on the apathy of the state government.

So for a perfect relaxing vacation, head out to the cleanest village today and make memories.

Bewitched By The Beauty of Rewai Living Root Bridge!

Meghalaya is home to several Living Root Bridges and our first glimpse of it was in Rewai Village, not to be confused with the one in Cherrapunji. Though we had read a lot about the Living Root Bridges and had seen a few pictures, we were not quite prepared for the magnificent Living Roots Bridge. We climbed down steep rock cut steps and there it was- One of the best natural engineering feats by man of course with generous help of Mother Nature. Years of patience and meticulous planning has resulted in this man made Natural wonder.

Running across a large water body connecting two villages is this wonderful natural bridge. The bridge and the calm waters below it are perfect for an artist to take out their paint brush and start filling colors in their canvas. A perfect place for meditating or even soul searching. The stillness and calmness around could be the best anti depressant or the perfect de-stress that one could ask for.

A small hike up the hill on the other side leads you to Nohwet view point which provides beautiful views of the surrounding hills with a bamboo bridge taking us over the edge to open up scintillating views. This village is home to few families and has a school and a small church.

A valuable lesson that the Khasi tribe teaches the rest of us is that we have to leave behind a sustainable and healthy Earth for our future generations. The brains behind the ingenious idea of root bridge may not have lived to enjoy the fruits but that did not stop them from creating something selflessly for the benefit of their future generations.

It was an amazing once in a lifetime experience to walk on the bridge. The natural roots are so strong that for years it has been taking massive loads and ferrying people. The bridge is so awesome that we ended up trekking to the bridge again the next day crossing another village on the way.

While trekking down the steep rock cut steps to get to Rewai Root Bridge, do try the organic fruits being sold on the way from the local farms. They are perfect energy boosters and of course the sweetest fruits that you would get to eat.

Life here at Rewai Village is simple at the same time filled with happiness. You can see all cheerful faces around with children enjoying and playing outside with whatever makeshift stuff they can find rather than cribbing over any gadgets. The saying necessity is the mother of all inventions is so true. Here, we saw kids happily play with a completely deflated football, make shift trolley made of wood including the wheels. This could just be used for entertainment for the kids or could be used as a trolley to move around heavy material. It was a nostalgic feeling reminding us of our childhood where we used to gather in the colony streets and play with just mud, sand or one football. This laid back and beautiful village is self sustained and does not seem to be pressed by time. The happy villagers never seemed to be in a rush.

A sense of achievement post the trek and of course stopping to admire the natural beauty surrounding you is the best joy and the perfect way to de stress. During one of our walks to the Rewai village, our legs took us to the not so explored paths that led us to a small water body and a bamboo bridge over a dry riverbed. We also came across a bamboo made bridge leading to a different path to one of the many bamboo fields hidden and definitely would not be visible from the road. Also, we came across a natural staircase made of stones and rocks- a beautiful sight. We even ended up spotting a dead snake on the road. It looked like it was killed while it was trying to cross over to the other side by one of the speeding vehicles.

This village is just 2 km from Mawlynnong the cleanest village in Asia. Though most of them tend to hire cars and try to club both the cleanest Village and Rewai root bridge as a day trip from Shillong, we would strongly recommend against it.

Of course, to save time it would be ideal to club them as a day excursion from Shillong. However, the true essence of the village and understanding the history behind growing these bridges would be totally lost if we do not have time in hand. To do complete justice to these places, we would recommend staying over at least for 1 night at the village and visiting the Root Bridge by foot. Though the walk could be tiresome, it would be worth it as you would also cross another village Rewai- neighboring village of Mawlynnong and has taken inspiration from them to keep their surroundings clean.

The charm of staying in the cleanest village makes it a perfect relaxing vacation. The icing on the cake would be the short trek to the root bridge.

Magical Deep Blue Reflection of Umngot River At Dawki!

Meghalaya, aptly named as "Abode of the Clouds," is a gateway to paradise! The abundant natural beauty of this state surely takes one's breath away and makes one want to settle down here. It is a perfect dream destination with forests, mountains, valleys, caves, rivers, lakes and above all brilliant roads leading to numerous treasured corners.



One such natural wonder of Meghalaya is Dawki, which is known for its crystal clear blue water of Umngot river. Having seen a picture of a lone fishermen on his shikara or fishing boat on crystal clear turquoise blue water, we learnt that it was taken at Dawki, a border town in Meghalaya. This picture was fresh in our minds while planning our North East trip and we were dead sure that this place would definitely be in our travel itinerary.

The drive to Dwaki from the state capital Shillong is a blessing with beautiful curvaceous roads that provide stunning views of valleys and waterfalls on the way. The condition of the roads is unlike other North Eastern states which makes them less accessible.

Throughout the journey, tall, thin Betel Nut trees bearing bright orange fruit which is the main ingredient of North East folks favorite pastime "Chewing Pan," can be found in abundance. Betel nut cultivation seems to be pretty lucrative as not just the locals in North East India consume it in large quantities but it is also exported widely.

We definitely were not disappointed on reaching Dawki. Lying on the India Bangladesh border is Dawki, home to Umngot river which is an absolute natural wonder. No pictures can do justice to this place offering a view of the Umngot river. There are many rivers where we take a glass boat ride to enjoy marine life or natural beauty and then there are few pristine rivers like Umngot river, where the river itself is like a glass boat. Hiring a boat for a short ride on this stunning river should be in the to do list of any traveller. The river is so charming and charismatic that it attracted us like a magnet and provided a crystal clear view of the river bed and marine life. The deep blue river elegantly snakes through the deep gorges and the tiny wooden boats fishing here are a breathtaking sight.

We could draw parallels to the amazing experience we had in Phuket while canoeing hidden lagoons. The only thing missing were the amazing caves.

Umngot river marks the separation between Khasi and Janatia hills. The river was more a natural border separating India and Bangladesh. An age old small suspension bridge runs above the river connecting the two countries. The amateur bridge can accommodate only one vehicle at a time and the road leads to Bangladesh.

A short drive from the bridge we reached the International border check post separating India and Bangladesh. The friendly BSF personnel patrolling the border were kind enough to let us in the no man's land giving us great assurance of the Indian Army having our backs. It was indeed nice to take a peek into Bangladesh, once part of Incredible India and then briefly married to Pakistan ended up getting an ugly divorce and since then has been consistently contributing mass illegal immigrants into India.

Considering the number of illegal immigrants in our nation from Bangladesh, it was quiet surprising to see this border pretty relaxed. The border towns here seemed to happily co-exist with not too much of security or fencing across the border. However, the reality seems different and of course the number of illegal immigrants speak a different story altogether. 

This town also hosts a weekly market where people from both the countries come and sell their goods. It becomes difficult to keep a tab of the number of locals crossing the border to attend the market and also it seemed pretty easy to cross over the Umngot river and enter India with few officers manning the banks of the river. Wish we had stricter laws and more security at the border that would avoid illegal immigrants crossing over.

There is no reliable public transport to and from Dawki so it would be a wise idea to hire a private taxi from Shillong to Dawki. Also, keep in mind there are no places to dine or stay in Dawki. At a distance of 90 km, it can be done as a day trip from Shillong. On the other hand, you could also do what we did. Head to Mawlynnong, dubbed as the cleanest village in Asia, which has plenty of stay options and is only 40 km from Dawki.