Strolling Around Varanasi

Travelogue Varanasi

Soul Searching In Varanasi

Varanasi is famous for her Ghats, paan, mighty Ganges, sari and holy pilgrimage sites- Kashi Vishwanath temple and Bhairava temple. The narrow lanes around the ghats of Varanasi made us feel like we were walking through a highly complicated maze. In the most unexpected corners, we saw centuries old temples that seem to have been engulfed by surrounding households and many a gem of eat outs. All lanes seem to look alike and are highly confusing but we never had to worry as smiling locals were always available to give us a detailed route map.

Varanasi, where the mornings begin with praying/salutation to the Sun and the day ends with the most magnanimous Ganga Aarti. This colorful city with its rituals, mantras, vedic chants makes one feel that this is the place to attain salvation. It is amazing to see a single platform offering a glimpse of various stages of Life. While on one side, the pundits are holding the naming ceremony or preparing for the first head shave of a new born, on the other ghat, there are preparations going on to cremate the body of a departed soul.

This place teaches you a lot about Life, Indian rituals and a connect with your spiritual side happens even without your knowledge. No wonder, people come down here once they have taken a call of disowning all worldly pleasures. But this place is not just for aged or religious. It attracts people who are soul searching, want to experience the roots of India, the traditions of Hinduism, the rituals and even those who want to learn more about our history and culture. That for sure is given, there is no way that this place does not leave a ever lasting impression on you.

On the other hand, people here know how to enjoy life as well. Their association with Bhaang, Paan, Lassi, colors and their love for food speaks volumes that you do not need fancy and expensive things to be able to enjoy life.

The best way to experience the beautiful ghats of Varanasi and fall in love with the many monuments is to explore them by foot. We were not really up for the much hyped boat tour as we wanted an up close personal feel of the Ghats. But let us caution you things are not all rosy, there are a few sections of the Ghat that are in absolute pathetic shape with a few stinking a lot due to human waste and garbage strewn around. However, the work around for this is to circumvent around the Ghat.

Ganga Aarti is performed everyday at the Dasaswamedha Ghat, the ritual starts at 7 pm and goes on for an hour. You are so engulfed by the Aarti that you start chanting the mantras along with the pundits and are more in a trance state with the awakening of your spiritual side. Ganga Aarti is performed by 7 pundits who perform synchronized Hindu rituals. In order to get better seats be there by 6:30 pm. The extreme corners of the ghat is the best place to view the aarti. To view the Ganga Aarti you will be offered a seat on a boat for a minimal price however, the view may not be great and will be obstructed as people sit on the platforms right in front of the pandits.

Be careful of your belongings as pickpockets prey on unsuspecting devotees and tourists. After the Aarti you maybe approached by pseudo pandits or babas who in the name of blessings will apply tilak on your forehead and then expect money in return. If you want to click pictures of sadhus or babas kindly ask for permission and pay a small tip.

Overlooking the Panchaganga ghat lies the Alamgiri Mosque. This mosque was built on an ancient Hindu temple destroyed by Aurangazeb. You can still see the walls that stand as remains of the Hindu temple and the mosque domes were built on these same walls. This is one of the most captivating monuments on the Ghats of Varanasi. One can see the minarets and domes from the banks of the Ganges.

Superstition plays a huge part in Hinduism and it is widely believed that if you let the ashes of the deceased soul in Ganga they will attain moksha or freedom from the cycle of re-birth. The Manikarnika Ghat which is one of the cremation ghats is a pretty sensitive and it is advised that you do not click pictures here as it might be insensitive and disrespectful towards the grieving family. 

One of the best ghats of Varanasi is Scindia Ghat, right next to Manikarnika, as we were very excited to see one stunning monument that is tilted as well as submerged in the Ganges. This 150 year old Shiva temple was built by a son for his mother and on the completion of the temple, he claimed he had repaid his debt to his mother for giving him life. However, the temple tilted right after completion and the locals say a debt to one's mother can never be repaid.

Another reason we fell in love with this ghat is for the divine lassi served in a tiny outlet "Blue Lassi Shop" right behind the ghat. We never knew lassi could be this excellent and awesome. Many varieties are offered by this 70 year old shop and we had a tough time choosing from their 5 page long menu. Their top seller seems to be Pomegranate lassi, we tried the 'Kesar Dry Fruit Lassi' and it was out of the world. In order to reach this treasured place they have strewn around bread crumbs in the form of small arrows painted on the walls directing you to the shop. If you want, carry a passport size photo as they have customers pinning up their photos on the walls of their shop with notes of appreciation.

Do watch-out for the Government authorized stores that sell "Bhang." If you are consuming it for the first time, please go in for really small quantity. Another place that caught our attention was Keshav Ruchika Byanjan Resturant aka KRB that serves incredibly good chaat. Do try the aloo tikki chat and pani puri, the place is super hygienic and clean. 

We checked into Hotel Broadway near Harichandra ghat. There are several plus points to stay in this hotel. Though the property is only 500mt from Harichandra ghat and it is not in a narrow lane. This mid range hotel has 24 hr power backup that operates all appliances including AC which is very important as Varanasi experiences frequent power cuts. They have super spacious rooms and lot of amenities including free WiFi. They were also generous enough to let us take a printout free of charge. The best aspect is their Aman restaurant that serves the best food in Varanasi at a very affordable cost.

Photo Blog Varanasi. 

Name Is Gaya..Bodh Gaya!

Bodh Gaya, home to UNESCO World Heritage monument that is not only the pride of India but also the whole World, attracts pilgrims from across the globe. Maha Bodhi Temple is one of the holiest sites for Buddhist. It is here under a Bodhi tree that Prince Siddhartha attained enlightenment and became Buddha. A diamond throne under the tree marks the spot where Buddha became the Enlightened One.

The main temple is 170 feet tall and the inner sanctum is one of the best places to be in. The temple was built by Emperor Ashoka and this temple built entirely by brick has railings around it that still remain intact. Despite the fact that the temple is thronged by pilgrims from across the world nobody seems to rush to catch a glimpse of the deity. This is quite a rare sight and very much in contrast with the most revered religious places in India. A gentle calmness prevails throughout the temple premises and pilgrims offer prayers and respect in a calm and composed manner.

A raised platform next to the temple has stone lotuses signifying the place where Lord Buddha rested his feet while walking up and down during meditation.

The entire temple complex has a large number to stupas scattered around and these places are used by many a monks for meditation and prayers.

Early morning is the best time to visit the temple as it is engulfed in a very calm, serene and positive atmosphere. Sitting next to the Bodhi tree listening to the pilgrims recite prayers had a calm and soothing effect on us even though we could not understand the prayer recitals. We witnessed the enthusiasm and happiness sparkling in the eyes of those pilgrims who were overjoyed and collected the leaves from the Bodhi tree that fell on the ground, it was as if they were blessed by Buddha himself.

Apart from the incredible Maha Bodhi temple many recently built temples by Buddhist nations from around the world are the other attractions.

Post the bomb blasts in 2013, the temple management has ensured that there are elaborate security check points for the safety of the pilgrims. They have also made arrangements for pilgrims to deposit their valuables. Mobile phones are prohibited inside the temple. However, cameras are allowed and tickets for it are priced at Rs.100.

Bodh Gaya is 12 km from Gaya and is very easily accessible with both places offering decent stay options. We checked into Hotel Gaya Regency which is opposite the railway station - 'Gaya Junction.' A budget accommodation with basic facilities, 24 hours power backup and free WiFi. The proximity of the hotel to the railway station is a blessing and a curse. Chaos and constant honking in this area is kind of unsettling but you don't have to be worried about your mode of transport if your train is scheduled at odd hours.

Yeh Hai Mumbai Meri Jaan!!!

Mumbai, the dream city of the Masses, a magical city that has elevated people from poverty to prosperity. The glamour world of Bollywood, home to business tycoons and one of the world's most expensive house and alongside comes the darker and grimmer world of underworld dons trying to run the city and the common man shrugging off the ghastly attack by coward terrorists. A few spots in the city still wearing the signs of destruction left behind. This city teaches the world on how to be brave and survive even in the most horrifying circumstances, be it the terror attacks or natural calamities. This city has a never say die attitude and comes together to come back to normalcy.

Mumbai was meant to be a pit stop for our Magical Monsoon Matheran trip. But coming to Mumbai and not getting engulfed by it's charm is highly impossible. This is the perfect city to see the ultra rich and ultra poor co-exist. The financial capital of India takes you aback with breathtaking high rises, bridges built over sea, the over hyped real estate prices and the sea facing homes.

Taj Mahal hotel was built in 1903 and believe it or not it was built 21 years before the Gateway of India. This beautiful piece of history is a true example of what Mumbai stand for- It's surviving spirit and fearless attitude. This hotel was opened in record time after the ghastly terror attacks.

The beautiful monument, Gateway of India, was completed in 1924 and it was built to commemorate the visit of King George and Queen Mary but the first major event to happen was the ceremony that was conducted on 28 February 1948 when the last set of British troops and divisions left India post-Independence.

The beach providing a view of Gateway of India and Taj Mahal hotel is a picture perfect moment but as much as we would love to see the beautiful building, the clutter floating in the water reflecting a darker side of commercialization and tourism melted our hearts. This significant and beautiful place is surrounded with so much garbage around, if only Mankind would respect Nature, this world would definitely be a much better place.

Commuting like the Mumbaikars in the local train is an experience in itself. You need to master the art of boarding and alienating the train without getting a scratch. That being said, this is the lifeline of Mumbai and the entire city relies on it and its pretty much a part of every single person's routine.

With the monorail being introduced, we hopped in for a joy ride and were pretty impressed with it. The smart Mono rail criss-crosses the city, ferrying people from one end to another. 

This dream city is also home to several slums which houses the most hard working class that are grossly underpaid. It is such a contrast to see one of the world's largest slum among such urbanization. This made us wonder how is it not possible to eradicate poverty and rehabilitate these folks. Living conditions in these slums are beyond imagination, millions still don't have access to clean drinking water, healthy living environment, drainage system etc.

The high and the mighty bow their heads down at Siddhi Vinayaka temple and even at times ditch their luxury cars and choose to walk it up from their sprawling bungalows to the temple. This Ganesh temple built in 1801 is one of the richest temples in Mumbai.

The Mount Mary church at Bandra, 80 mts above sea level, is a beautiful stone structure and the interiors have beautifully painted murals depicting the life events of Mary. This church is also famous for the feast of the Blessed Virgin Mary held in September followed by a week long celebration known as Bandra Fair.

Bandra-Worli sea link, reduces the travel time from Bandra to Worli from 90 minutes to 20-30 minutes. This INR 16 Billion bridge is perfect for late night drives and of course makes for some beautiful photographs.

Marine Drive, is the ideal place for an evening stroll or to just sit there with the high rise building behind and the sea in front inviting us to dream big and encouraging us to fulfill those dreams. Ah! The city of Dreams.

The Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus, popularly known as Victoria Terminus "VT" Station, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is blend of Victoria Gothic, Mughal and traditional Indian style of architecture. The wood carvings, tiles, iron and brass railings, and the grand staircase left us in awe at the brilliance of the designs.

Mumbai is a fantastic destination for food lovers and apart from the most famous Juhu Chowpati, there are a lot of other eateries that make you lick your fingers. We treated our taste buds to the best of street food, desserts and a wee bit of fancy continental food.

Your trip to Bombay is not complete without a visit to Leopold Cafe. They have extensive variety of Beer and their Alferdo Veg Pasta and Peking Chicken fried rice is a lovely add on. This place still bears the remains of the terror attack- the bullet holes and small crater due to the grenade blast under one of the tables tell the horrifying tales.

If you are in mood for some Nachos, french-fries, nooodles, visit Abstrakt Bistro & Lounge. The food was excellent and the ambience great.

Milkshake at Shiv Sagar- This place is not just famous for its Idly, Vada, Dosa, tea and coffee but also serves some really good milkshakes. We tried the Sitaphal Milkshake and it was as heavy as a whole breakfast meal.

Sadguru Pav Bhajji- This place is famous for the variety of Pav Bhajji that they offer with lots of butter floating on the bhajji and the only thing you can be heard saying after finishing it is - Yeh Dil Maange More!!

People who love chaat will definitely vouch for this- "as long as you have not had Pani Puri you have not had Chaat". For Pani Puri, we would highly recommend Sind Pani Puri house, they have the perfect blend of spice and masala providing a perfect end to your chaat experience.

To satisfy the sweet tooth craving, head to Rassilly, a small falooda joint and try from a list of their faloodas. The Rabdi falooda was heavenly filled with dry fruits and believe us when we say it would not be possible for a person to finish the whole glass.

For those who love ice creams, Ice Cream sandwich at Rustoms at Churchgate is a must visit. This place serves Ice cream Sandwich with some variety of flavors ranging from Muskmelon to Pappay and the ice cream is sandwiched in between two wafer slabs, definitely unique.

Of course, the trademark snack Vada pav at any of the eat outs, Maharashtra's very own favorite snack is a must try.

Mumbai gave us a taste of the rapid fast Mumbaikars' life. We enjoyed the iconic places, the food and in true Mumbai style we were welcomed by our friend and her family who made the stay in Mumbai filled with happy and joyous memories.