Koshi Tappu Lesser Known Reserve Of Nepal

Koshi Tappu is a bird watchers paradise and the reserve is named after the river Sun Koshi. The wetlands of the terai region of Nepal attracts hundreds of migratory birds from all over the globe. This silent & calm uncharted territory is hardly visited by tourists. This place would reap high rewards for an enthusiastic bird watcher. Do check out the wildlife orientation center in Koshi, it houses very exotic wildlife taxidermy such as Gangetic dolphins, wild buffalo, elephant fetus.  The mere fact that there are only 3 resorts around the reserve stands testimony for the low footfall this place sees.

Keep an eye out for the small signboards on Siddartha highway (10 km from Itahari.) that leads you on unpaved tracks in-between farmlands. Follow this stretch for 2.5 km and you reach the resort 'Koshi Tappu Bird Watching Camp.' We got to experience Nepali's love and hospitality. This is a very basic and budgeted property. Do not expect great amenities however, it is very clean and their service is excellent. They serve very good, fresh and organic food. The owner of the property is always around to take care of the guests.

There are two types of accommodation to choose from - Mud house and tents. We choose mud house it comes with a ceiling fan two very comfortable cots with mosquito nets and cozy quilts. The best part about the property is that there is a water body next to it that attracts birds.  An evening stroll around would be very fruitful.  Birds chirping around and water gushing down are like music to your ears and sets a perfect mood to enjoy a hot cup of tea. Please note as of now the resort does not provide attached bath.

Next stop Chitwan National Park. 

Himalayan Motorcycle Odyssey!

"It's a part of our life that we spent in the mountains."

Our love for travel, road, mountains and the bike took us to the Himalayas for a road trip that we would cherish and take to our graves. The three of us, Guy, Girl and Motorcycle headed out in search of salvation to Nepal, Bhutan and the hidden treasure, Sikkim.

Our trip started with Nepal, then we rode to Sikkim and from there we headed to Bhutan. During the entire trip of 50 days, we covered 4269 km. We made hotels our homes, fell in love with Momos, Nepali thali, Datshi, Paa, people, culture, roads, landscapes and many more.

Our Route Map

It is very difficult to put in words all the fun and excitement that we had over these two months. However hard we think, we are running short of words to describe how awesome we felt and how lucky we are to do things that our hearts have always craved for. Over the last several days, we spent a part of our lives with the incredible people of North East India, Bhutan and Nepal.

This adventurous road trip on our motorcycle took us to three places that are an extension of the graceful Himalayas, but are unique in their own way and left us enchanted by their magic. Nepal offered us a chance to see some of the most exotic migratory birds in Koshi Tappu, the birth place of Goddess Sita - Janakpur. We rode on an elephant back into the Royal Chitwan national park in search of the imperil one horned Rhino. Katmandu treated us with abundant heritage and history, we had spectacular views of Himalayas from Pokhara and visited the birth place of Buddha - Lumbini.

Our very own Sikkim offered us a change to see one of the highest lakes in the world - Gurudongmar lake, 16th century Rumtek monastery, second capital of Sikkim - Rabdentse Ruins, glimpse of super rare and highly endangered wildlife, rode on the second highest bridge in Asia, saw the gears used by the great Tenzing Norgay.

Bhutan - The awesome Kingdom that puts Happiness ahead of Money. A country that does not believe in traffic lights, yet maintains impeccable driving sense. Home of the breathtaking Tiger nest monastery.

All of this would not have been possible without the help of an integral part of our family - our Royal Enfield motorcycle. He turned out to be the best companion to do this trip with. Throughout the testing climatic conditions and terrible roads, he did run like a champ and never gave us any trouble or threw fits around. True to his tag line -"Made like a gun, goes like a Bullet," this machine is indeed a true legacy. We just fell in love with our bike all over again.

This trip will always stay very close to our hearts.

Shivpuri

Day 26 Orccha To Shivpuri

Distance: 120 km

Road Condition: Very good 4 way lane.

Chhatri In Memory Of Madhav Rao Scindia

Shivpuri, the then summer capital of Scindia rulers, is a small town with great places of interests such as Madhav National Park, George Castle, Chattris & Tatya Tope memorial.

Madhav National Park: It is a great park but sadly almost all wildlife was wiped out due to rampant hunting by the Royal family and their friends. The 20 km drive inside the park hardly yielded in any wildlife sighting. However, it is a bird watcher's paradise. The park is open from sunrise to sunset with no specific safari timings.

Within the park premises is the massive man-made Sakhya Sagar lake, home for marsh crocodiles. The lake has abundant water even during peak summer and is a good place to spot wildlife & birds quenching their thirst. MPTDC operates a boat club offering joyrides.

George Castle: Within the national park stands tall George Castle built by Maharaja Jiyaji Rao Scindia for the King Of England George V. It was built as a rest house for the King during his visit to hunt tigers, it so happened that he shot and killed one on the way and hence never stayed here.

These majestic beasts that were once found in abundance here are now completely wiped out. All to prove machismo of Nawabs, Kings and Britishers. The panoramic view of the national park from atop George Castle is fabulous. The castle is now converted into a museum.

Madhav Rao & Maharani Sakhya Raje Scindia Chhatri: In their memory the Scindia family have built 2 magnanimous Cenotaphs facing each other. These monuments are nothing less than architectural marvels. Especially the one dedicated to Madhav Rao Scindia built with sparkling white marbles is stellar.

The doors are made of silver and the exquisite mural wall paintings are a delight. This place is ideal to spend a quiet evening and watch the sunset.

Truly Royal - Silver Door

Tatya Tope memorial: Betrayed by his friend Man Singh this is where Legendary Tatya Tope's trial was conducted and he was publicly hanged to death by the British Raj for the Revolt of 1857.

Legend Lives On

We checked into Tourist village Shivpuri operated by MPTDC, this is one of the best properties. The property is brilliantly laid-out and the aesthetics are very good. It is at the edge of Madhav national park & shares boundary with Sakhya sagar lake. Resort houses swimming pool, gym, indoor games area & adventure activity zone. Mountain bikes are also available on rent. Food standards are pretty good. The boat club is within the resort premises.

Next destination Gwalior.

Panna National Park

Day 18 Amarkantak to Panna Via Rewa 

Distance: 392 km

Road Condition: Good roads with occasional potholes. A stretch of 20 km in between has no roads. However, work is in progress to lay roads. On this stretch oncoming heavy vehicle creates a cloud of dust completely blinding the driver.

Panna, a hidden treasure far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, way off the tourist radar due to it's slim tiger population. Compared to other national parks, this park is very calm minus the tiger centric crowd. This makes the jungle safari a pleasant and serene experience.

Panna National Park

Ken river, the lifeline of Panna National Park is a rich source of uncontaminated water flowing through the dense forest, an ideal living condition for the marsh crocodiles. Apart from jeep safari the park also offers boat safari to witness crocodiles basking in the sun. If you are lucky enough you could even spot an elusive leopard quenching it's thirst. Minimum charges for the boat ride is Rs. 200 for 4 people.

Massive Ken River

Due to rampant poaching, in 2009 the entire tiger population was wiped out. 2 female tigers and a male tiger were then relocated from Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench respectively. Rigorous conservation efforts by the forest department and locals has led to an increase in the tiger population. Currently, the number stands at 27. There are designated teams tracking the movement of tigers keeping them safe from poachers.

The forest department might block some safari routes if there has been a kill. While we were there, one route was off-limits as there was a fresh kill by a tigress with 3 cubs. On another occasion, we saw the carcass of a leopard being carried away by the forest officials, word is a duel broke-out between the tigress and the leopard.

Safari expenses: Jeep charges Rs. 1500, guide 300, camera charges 250, park entry fee 1000. Do checkout the museum at the ticket booking counter.

We took 3 safaris and spotted vultures. Panna is one of the last few natural habitats for these endangered species. A rocky terrain leads to great view of deep gorge, also known as Vulture point. It would be a spectacular sight to see water fall into the gorge during monsoon.

Crested Serpent Eagle

Thanks to the sheer brilliance of our guide, Suresh, we spotted a highly camouflaged nightjar. It took us a while to differentiate the bird from the twigs around.

Camouflaged Nightjar

Up Close

Other wildlife sighting included tigers cooling off by the river, crocodiles basking in the sun, grey hornbill, stork billed kingfisher, eagles, paradise flycatcher, rufous tree pie, oriental magpie, mongoose.

Stork Billed Kingfisher

Changeable Hawk Eagle

Other tourist attraction in Panna- Pandava falls. A few things to note - guide service is mandatory, charges at Rs 60 and the falls is 600 mt away from the gate. Legend is, Pandavas spent a couple of years during their exile at this place. A flight of 100 steps leads to the caves. The falls is alluring and would be quite a sight during monsoon. The caves are in pretty bad shape, the govt has closed the caves all you get to see is 2 mt of the caves. The guide says if one is extremely lucky they could spot bear, leopard or tiger here. We are not sure how lucky you would be if you have a face-off with any of these.

Pandava Caves

We checked into MPTDC Jungle Camp, Madla zone, the property shares it's boundary with the park. They provide AC tented accommodation which are very cozy, rooms are spacious and clean with TV, small fridge and comfortable sit out.  The best part is safari booking office is hardly a kilometer away.

However, the service standards of the hotel are horrendous. During our 2 days stay in the month of April, there were frequent and lengthy power cuts. Despite having backup generators the management refused to switch them on even after repeated requests. The bizarre reason given was 'The guy who switches on the gen set was not available.'

In addition, they overcharged us Rs 500 for every jeep safari we took. This being a Government owned and run hotel, these charges were unacceptable. The jeep drivers employed by the hotel try to save fuel and refuse to drive on rugged terrain. The point of taking a jungle safari is defeated.

Also, food is bad. Management is not reachable at any given time. We highly recommend you to stay away from this property.

Do check out Ken River Lodge for stay options.

With great expectations we head to Khajuraho.

Bandhavgarh National Park, Jewel Of India.

Day 11 Bhedaghat To Bandhavgarh

Distance: 200 km

Road Condition: First 35 km tends to be chaotic so it is better to cover this stretch early in the morning. Pretty bad roads clubbed with zero road sense makes the drive horrifying. However, the moment you hit the state highway curvaceous road with excellent tarmac welcomes you. There is hardly any traffic and no pot holes until you reach Bandhavgarh. It is blissful to drive through ghat sections with beautiful trees adoring colorful leaves on either side of the highway. Once you reach Bandhavgarh, the 15 km stretch towards Tala is terrible. The roads are non-existent but the good news is work is underway to lay cement roads.

En Route Bandhavgarh

After a brief stay in Jabalpur, we head back to our home away from home, the jungles of India- this time Bandhavgarh. This national park lives up to it's expectation and hype as a tiger territory, it is believed that one has to be extremely unlucky to not sight a tiger here. 

So Comforting

Bandhavgarh national park is compact and beaming with wildlife, making it famous among tourists. There are 3 entry zones and Tala zone is the most sought after. However, one has to cough up more money to enter this zone. The booking counter for spot booking operates at a snail's speed and there is no gypsy booking booth near the counter. One has to call on a number provided on their notice board to book a gypsy for safari. On weekdays, you may get to enter the park via Magadhi or Kitauli zone and it is pretty much impossible to get a spot booking on weekends.

Show off

Safari expenses: Jeep charges Rs. 2000, entry Rs.1000, Guide fee Rs 300. No charges for camera. Entry for Tala zone is Rs 1000 more expensive.

Tala zone is right behind the booking office so there is no time spent in reaching the gate. For the other 2 zones, one would have to travel a few km to reach the entry gate. We had permit for Magadhi zone for our first safari and were greeted with lush green Sal trees, huge bamboo shoots, meadows and natural water holes. The terrain is hilly and the park is not as cold as other parks in MP. The fort, dam and lord Vishnu murti are within the park's boundaries.

Lush Green Park

We were right in time to witness breakfast being prepared for the mighty elephant, hot rotis were being prepared and each weighed around 3 kg.

Breakfast For The Giant

During the safari we spotted sambar, jackal, eagle, barking deer, chinkara, painted stork, peacocks, and caught a glimpse of elusive tiger crossing the road behind thick shrubs. This scene unfolded a few meters away yet only a few were lucky enough to witness it. As the safari came to an end, our guide drew our attention towards a jungle fowl in a hollow tree trunk incubation her eggs.

Mom At Work

Chinkara

We got permit to enter Khitauli zone for the evening safari. We had a great start- spotted a crested serpent eagle mere meters away which was not camera shy. After clicking a few pics we moved along to see a peacock trying to impress a peahen by a watering hole, pretty sure it does not take more than this for the hen to fall head over heels in love.

Serpent Eagle

Jackal

While admiring the beauty of the peacock dance, we saw a very conscious and alert wild boar walk to a watering hole to quench his thirst and cool off. After spending considerable time we headed in search of more action. Mere meters away from our gypsy we spotted a vine snake take shelter in a bamboo shoot. It was quite a sight and our first time to see a snake in the wild. It was beautifully camouflaged making one aware of the lurking danger around.

Cooling Off

Green Vine Snake

Our 3rd and final safari was to the Tala zone, and with this we covered all three zones of the park. Binod Kumar, our guide with 19 years of experience knew the forest inside out. We followed warning calls of langurs, sambars and spotted deer in search of a predator and ended up in Kankatti's territory who got her name from a feud years ago in which her ear was cut, hence, the name. The calls led to thick shrubs and in the background we saw glowing orange with black stripes, she was engrossed feeding on her kill - a spotted deer.

Lunch Time

Spent time admiring her and proceeded towards the 10th century Vishnu murti, this 35 foot sculpture has been carved out of a single sandstone rock. Steep slopes take you to a hill where you see Vishnu resting on a serpent with Bramha and Shiv on either sides for company. We were in awe with the architecture, and amazed by the history and beauty of India. The park is home for a natural fort and many sandstone caves that are out of bound for tourists. Specialty of Tala zone is one gets to see all these monuments.  If the words of the guide are to be believed, these caves are now used as home for tiger cubs.

Resting Vishnu

We checked into Tiger Den Resort, a pretty posh property. We were promptly checked into our room, the staff is very friendly, courteous and helpful. The resort offers great aesthetics and spacious rooms, has a swimming pool, spa, souvenir shop and a well stocked library. The food served there is awesome. Personal food requests are entertained, desserts are out of the world, sinful and heavenly. Their Phirni and mud cake with chocolate sauce is to die for. Tala zone is only half a kilometer away from the premises, the other 2 zones are 3 and 6 km away.
Downside: The bathrooms are huge but the shower cubicle is too small for comfort.

Excited to say hi to our next destination Amarkantak.

Kanha National Park

Day 6 Pench to Kanha 

Distance: 200 kms. 
Road Condition: Very good roads and we clocked 1000 kms of our MP journey.

Today, we drive to Kanha celebrating our 2nd Wedding Anniversary. It would have been ideal to pamper yourself with apparel from a high end store, expensive jewelry, and a candle light dinner at a star hotel. However, there are few things money can't buy like having breakfast in middle of nowhere with birds chirping around, langurs jumping on trees, a lake nearby and the love of your life beside you making this perfect day priceless.

Blissful Breakfast

The best part about road trips are the challenges and surprises thrown at you and how one improvises to find solutions.  After driving a few kilometers enjoying the pristine beauty of the jungle on either side, we were taken aback to see a huge tree fallen on the road due to a heavy storm the previous night. Reminding us, mere mortals that we are at the mercy of Mother Nature. We took a detour via some fields to reach the other side of the road.

Challenge Accepted! 

Arriving at Kanha, we made this our home for the next 3 days and took 3 Safaris. The beautiful and huge Sal trees paint the jungle green. In the morning the park is cold in it's unique way and one has to experience it. National Parks across Madhya Pradesh are closed for evening safaris on Wednesdays. Nearest petrol pump is 25 km away. There is an ATM right opposite Khatia gate.

Colors Of Jungle

Go here not for the tigers but to catch a glimpse of the rare Barasingha. These endangered species can be found only in Kanha. Thanks to the conservation efforts their numbers have now reached to 450 from a mere 66.

Endangered Barasingha

Do not be hooked on to just spotting a tiger, the park is full of surprises, try and be appreciative of nature around you. You never know what the jungle has in store for you. We heard strong warning calls from Sambhar and spotted deer, which means only 1 thing- the predator is around the corner. The wait for the tiger was fruitful and we did catch a glimpse of the tiger walking down a hill and a tigress lazing around in the bushes to beat the scorching heat. As all jeeps were lined up awaiting the arrival of the tiger, from nowhere a spotted deer sprang up and sprinted towards the meadows.

Surprise Element

We were lucky enough to spot a confused peacock dancing and trying to impress a spotted deer. Other wildlife sightings included bison, vulture, endangered barasinghas, painted stork, racket tailed drongo.

Bewildered Peacock

Racket Tailed Drongo

Indian Bison

Unexpected showers during our second safari was a very unique experience. The air was clear, the park way too calm and silent without any alarm calls. As the safari was coming to our end, there was buzz around a waterhole - Alas! the royal bengal tiger relaxing in the waterhole. The shutterbugs went click, click, click.

King Of Kanha

As we headed towards the exit gate, we saw a deer raise an alarm call sensing danger from a harmless macaque. Since the deer is only used to seeing langurs, it wasn't sure if the macaque  was a friend or foe and hence raised the distress call.

Safari Expenses- Entry charges Rs.2000, Jeep Charges Rs.2000, Guide fee Rs.300. No charges for the camera. Note- Entry to zones other than Kanha are Rs.600 less expensive.

Checked into Wild Chalet Resort, spread across 9.5 acres. It is a Bird watcher's paradise. Top class hospitality service. The staff is enthusiastic and love to take care of their guests. They surprised us with a cake during dinner as it was our anniversary. Resort offers great food and their masala chai is a must try. The property overlooks a river and you can watch elephants taking a bath in the river. Add-on the lake attracts a lot of birds. One more great property from India Adventures. We chose a Non-AC, Air cooler room during summer and we did not regret it one bit.

Our Den

Other attractions- Nature walk across the river bed, where we saw a crow hunt a bee- eater and simultaneously the bee-eater hunt for an insect, both failed attempts. It was an amazing sight to see the bee-eater hunt when it's own life was at stake.

Egret hunting for food

You can also watch the sun set by the river. The view in the evening is amazing with three different shades in the sky- pink, orange and blue. Clouds partially covering the sun with thunder and lightening.

Sunset

Resort Staff, Ghanshyam took us to the nearby weekly market to experience the flavors of the village. He was kind enough to buy us desi daaru, Mahua Liquor that is made from the mahua flower available in abundance.

Villager Collecting Mahua Flowers

Taking fond memories we packed our bags and left for Bhedaghat.