Tiger Nest - Humble Monastery That Put Bhutan On The World Map

The early morning mist, wet roads and an almost hidden narrow deviation from the highway crossing a few villages leads you to the parking lot of the most impressive trek of your lifetime. The Tiger's Nest trek. The view of the woods and horses grazing all around in the parking lot make you feel like the adventure has already begun. To reach the Takstang Monastery, you can trek all the way up or you can sit on the back of a horse for three fourth of the distance and then continue the rest of the climb on foot. We chose the more adventurous path - trekking all the way up to admire the beauty of the wilderness.

But before we could start the trek we joined a group of locals who lit a bonfire and were keeping themselves warm. The warmth from rubbing your palms and the bonfire gave us the much energy required to beat the cold and start the trek.

The trek path is well maintained and as you begin your trek you come across hydro powered prayer wheels spinning around at great speed. The path through the pine forests is steep but well worth it for the views of the Paro valley and of course the glimpses of the monastery captivating and recharging you to finish the trek. All through the trek path you find prayer flags fluttering and carrying the prayers to Almighty.

There are two cafes en-route the monastery. A stop at the main Cafeteria with a beautiful sit out and magnificent views of the monastery leaves you spellbound. This is the place where most of the trekkers end their trek and head back. The food offered is basic consisting of dal rice and noodles but considering the remoteness of the location it is a feast and the steep price is well worth it. Of course, the perfect place to enjoy the view with a hot cup of tea in your hand munching on some biscuits and witnessing this wonder of the world.

View From Cafe

After crossing the cafeterias, the path is much steep but with even better views of the Monastery. You finally reach the point where the horses end their journey and then begins the climb of rock cut steps leading you to the Monastery. The huge waterfall on the way, the sounds of which could be heard in the cafeteria takes your breath away.

It was thrilling to reach the monastery. Be it the dramatic location, the monstrous structure, the mythical stories, the adventurous trek, Tiger's Nest packs a powerful punch.  It is believed that Guru Ringponche flew up to the monastery on the back of a Tigress in order to subdue evil spirits in the vicinity and meditated in a cave here for three long months. It is one of the most sacred places for Buddhists in Bhutan as this is the birthplace of Buddhism in Bhutan. The monastery houses huge sculptures of various Buddhist gurus. Right next to the huge sculpture of Guru Ringponche is the cave in which he meditated. However, this is closed for public viewing and remains open only once in a year.

The most dramatic aspect of the monastery is the 'Tiger's Nest,' be sure to check out this cave located in between the Butter lamp room and Namsey Langhankha. This dramatic cave leads you to the edge of the mountain and throws open the view of Paro valley, this cave is where the mythical tigress rested long ago. However, please be cautioned that this place can only be reached by climbing down a couple of make shift wooden ladders. A slip here or there would result in broken bones and people hardly visit this place so getting help might be a distant dream.

A little before the entrance to the monastery is the Lion's Cave. This is where Yeshi Tsogyal, consort of Guru Ringponche meditated.

This monastery is nothing less of an engineering marvel. The master artisans and skillful carpenters of Bhutan have built such a wonderful monument centuries ago. And all of this was built without a blue print. It is believed that higher spiritual powers helped build this stunning monastery. A walk around the monastery witnessing this unbelievable wonder of the world that has survived a fire and still stands solid to tell the tales of history is mind blowing.

With a sense of calm, we started to climb down to the Valley.

Few things to keep in Mind:

• Mobile phones and cameras are prohibited inside the monastery premises and have to be deposited in the locker room. However, these lockers are not equipped with locks.
• It would be a great idea to leave a little early in the morning for the trek as the monastery visiting hours are from 8 am to 4 pm (during winter) and is closed for lunch from 1 pm to 2 pm. 
• One needs good amount of stamina for the trek. An average person would take anywhere between 2 to 3 hours to reach the monastery and it's quite a difficult trek.
• As it is a sacred site, please maintain decorum and respect the sanctity of the monastery .

Paro Valley The Place To Be For An Idyllic & Romantic Trip

The majestic Dzong or Monastery perched high on a hill, the river kissing the shore and the blue sky with white clouds scattered around, time definitely had come to a standstill with nothing but nature around and tales of history urging to be heard. These are the memories that leave an everlasting impression and it is this natural beauty that automatically calms you down, making you forget your worries and be content and filled with gratitude for having witnessed this moment. And to make this memory further more romantic, we noticed an old couple sitting right next to us clicking pictures and giggling away to glory while their eyes speaking volumes, if this doesn't define romance, there is nothing else that could. Happy and content with their memories and a childlike smile on their faces, they walked away but not before the man winked at us confirming that love is not age bound. Yes, this would definitely be one memory that would flash our minds minutes before resting in peace.

Paro valley is best explored on foot. Though lesser populated than Thimphu, Paro is more famous globally due to the imposing Tiger Nest Monastery. If Thimphu is calm and quite, Paro is serene. While heading to the most iconic place in Bhutan- Paro valley leaving the capital city of Thimphu behind, we were excited as this tiny town serves as the perfect retreat. The river that runs through the town, the beautiful and colorful trees, pristine valleys, the magnanimous Dzongs & monasteries make Paro picture perfect.

Paro/Rinpung Dzong: Also known as the "Fortress on the heap of jewels," it was built in the 15th century but was destroyed by fire in 1907. Built again using traditional methods i.e. no nails and bolts it stands as a fine example of Bhutanese architecture. This massive fortress now serves as an administrative office and is open for public viewing. The monastery can be reached either by a fleet of steep rock cut steps or an inclined and smooth pathway. After the tiring hike we climbed down and sat by the Paro river that made our evening idyllic & romantic.

One of the reasons why Bhutan is famous and most people visit Paro is to hike up Taksang Monastery. The dramatic monastery built 3000 m above sea level embracing a cliff  is nothing less than any wonder. Legend has it that Guru Padmasambhava flew here on a tigress from Tibet and meditated here in a cave for three months. Hence, it is known as Tiger's Nest Monastery. To give full justice to the monastery, we will be dedicating an exclusive post for Tiger Nest.

A few kilometers away from Paro town is the Paro National Museum, built as a watchtower to protect Paro Dzong in 1651, it was converted to a museum in 1965. This museum stands as another sign of the good relationship that India and Bhutan share. This museum was funded by the Indian government and one of the relics 'A double Barrel Gun' was gifted by Pundit Nehru to the Royal family. The museum is a must visit as it speaks volumes about the Bhutanese culture, history, wildlife & much more and houses more than 3000 pieces of artwork with a culture spanning over 1500 years. The first two halls of the museum are dedicated to Bhutanese culture exhibiting the different kinds of masks & Thankas (Buddhist paintings.) They exclusively showcase the rich tradition and culture of Bhutan. The other galleries proudly showcase the varied wildlife that exist in Bhutan ranging from their National animal 'Takin,' Snow/clouded leopard, gharial, bird species, butterflies etc. The museum has state of the art technology where visitors can watch documentaries to learn more about Bhutan culture. Any kind of photography is strictly prohibited inside the museum.

While in Bhutan it is a must to treat your taste buds with the Bhutanese cuisine, especially Mushroom Datshi, a dish with mushrooms and lot of green chillies in a cheese sauce and Chicken Paa that may include radish but nonetheless tastes spicy and excellent. Bhutanese food is way too spicy as chillies seem to be their main ingredient so do specify to add less chillies. Their butter salt tea is a must try and is an acquired taste but something very unique.

Paro offers some great restaurants and cafes, our favorite was the 'Champaca Cafe' as they serve lip smacking pastries, sandwiches & beverages. The people who run the Cafe are very kind, helpful and very cheerful with great aesthetic sense that reflects in the decor of their cafe. It is a perfect place to regain all the calories burnt while hiking to the Tiger's Nest and unwind in the evening with a nice ambience, coffee in your hand, sinful pastries to gorge on and watch the town carry on with their daily activities.

The nights provide a different picture- the sky dazzling with stars, the stream gushing down and crickets singing their tunes and the cold wind blowing across hypnotizing you and the drowsy eyes flicker and shut down with a smile plastered on the lips.

Bhutan is the place where we saw giant phalluses being sold as souvenirs and the phallic symbols are painted on the walls of homes & Dzongs as Bhutanese people believe it would wade off evil spirits and is considered as a sign of fertility. Do not be surprised if you come across small wooden phalluses hanging on doors of homes and shops. There are plenty of souvenir shops around that would help you choose a perfect memento as a mark of remembrance.

As if Tiger's Nest was not enough, there are few more monasteries that you might encounter in Paro valley that will make you wonder, how on earth did they manage to reach that high, forget building a monastery. Some things are best when left unexplained.

Not just the finished monuments, but ruins too are a sight to behold. These ruins capture your attention right on the highway.

Another interesting fact about Paro is its small airport with one runway, we literally rode our bike parallel to the runway. Interesting thing is guards stop traffic on the road in the event of a flight taking off or landing giving one a great view of the aircraft's belly. As luck would have it, on the last day when we were leaving from Paro we saw a Druk aircraft just mere meters away from us fly over our head and touch down at the airport.

We checked into hotel Sonam Trophel, a fantastic budget hotel with great service. Their management is very helpful and the hotel offers WiFi and the food is good and tastes pretty much like home cooked food.

We finally wrapped up our adventurous road trip lasting around 50 days covering 4269 km across the picturesque landscapes of Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. We bid adieu to the mountains and head back home.

"Do not be sad its Over, be glad it happened."

Riding Into The Happiest Kingdom Bhutan

One thing that stands out about Bhutan is its pristine beauty. The mist, the forest around, traditional wooden homes with colorful carvings or paintings, monasteries, scintillating landscapes beautifully painted by colorful trees makes you feel like you have entered a fantasy World. The Land of the Thunder Dragon as it is popularly known, is truly a biking country. Riding our bike on these wide roads with greenery all around, the clouds blessing us with little raindrops and the river stream swaying through made us hope that this road would never end.

Our Bhutan ride was simply the best and most enjoyed stretch in our whole ride across Nepal, Sikkim & Bhutan. The BRO have done a fabulous job in maintaining the roads to compliment the beauty of Nature that Bhutan has to offer. It really is a 'Paradise on earth.' The sun constantly plays hide and seek with you and the clouds join in. They make you doubt your own watch as 1:30 in the afternoon may seem like 6 in the evening. On the way, 'Dantak Canteen' 75 km from Phuentsholing (the entry point) is a perfect place to stop for lunch. It serves hot and spicy food and Indian food seems to be their specialty. Their special tea easily replaces one peg of whiskey in the cold weather.

Riding on Bhutan roads leaves you amazed by their traffic sense, their patience, and their respect for pedestrians. With so many junctions on a single lane you may expect traffic jams and grid locks but forget traffic jams this country does not need red, yellow or green lights to keep them in check. Yes, they do not have traffic signals yet they believe in following traffic rules and need not be manned by cops all the time. They follow the law whether someone is looking or not and this is what speaks volumes about their culture, values and the kind of people they are.

Our interaction with locals here confirmed the fact that Bhutan truly is a happy country. People here are content with their lives, give importance to cleanliness, they know that money can fetch you materialistic things but they do know that money cannot truly buy you happiness, which is a choice and they choose to be happy. Everyone you meet has a smile and they are very grounded and welcome you to their homes with open arms. They can be seen flaunting around their traditional attire, gho and kira, being at ease wearing them on a daily basis and do not feel the need to imitate other countries as they are very proud of  their deep rooted traditional and cultural values and why not- the basic act of being kind and respectful to another human being reflects among each one of them.

Thimphu, the capital, is a wonderful place to begin your travel for the first time in a Kingdom. It is the lifeline of Bhutan with a lot of activities around. Apart from being tourist friendly with abundant hotels and restaurants, there are a lot of  exhibitions organised to promote handicrafts from different parts of Bhutan. The weekend markets are definitely worth a visit and if you are a sports enthusiast, you might want to give a shot at Archery in Thimphu. They are also huge fans of Football and while we there, there was a Football Championship going on and the crowd was going berserk.

A 20 minute ride from Thimphu on a road between huge pine trees, strewn with the brown needle drops and of course the cold wind running the chills across your face lingering with the fragrance of Earth leads you to a brick establishment on a rock, sheltered by massive trees with the blue sky and white clouds in the background glorifying the monastery even more making you wonder if this is the the stairway to heaven.

This monastery is the Dechenphu Lhakhang popularly known as 'Denchen Pho' and is of great religious importance to the Bhutanese people. Non Bhutanese visitors are not allowed inside the Dzong but are free to visit the Monastery.

Apart from a handful of locals you will not spot anyone else here making it the ideal place for solitude and to get lost in your thoughts. Just sit on the grass, close your eyes and this place soothes you automatically leaving you in a trance mode.

On the foot hills is the Pangrizampa Lakhang. Today, this temple is used as an Astrologers Center of the state clergy and is home to close to 100 monks studying Astrology.

Tashichhoe Dzong, also called the "Fortress of the Glorious Religion," is the powerhouse and administrative building of Bhutan. It houses the throne room and offices of the king, the cabinet secretariat and the ministries of the home affairs and finance. It is open for public viewing from 4 to 5 pm. However, be there a little early to see the Royal Police Guards unfurl the Bhutan National Flag. While entering the Dzong, we were captivated by the paintings on the wall, each even more  impressive than the other. The Dzong is massive and beautiful and there is a huge monastery within the Dzong.

Bhutan National Library is a treasure trove of Bhutanese and Tibetan literature, be it ancient manuscripts carved on wood or written on handmade paper, they are all preserved at their pristine best. This three storeyed wooden building serves as a home for Monks and scholars. Most of the ancient manuscripts are wrapped in silk cloth. On the ground floor of the library is another great piece of history, the "Largest Published Book" in the World.

Only a few kilometers away from the National library is the Zilukha Nunnery which is the biggest nunnery in Bhutan. The nuns here are actively involved in helping the less privileged and the local communities. The panoramic view of the Tashichhoe Dzong from here is breathtaking.

The entire Kingdom seems to idolize the King and the Queen and is apparent from the Portraits and hearty message from the public to the royal family. Our sincere respect to the country as it values Gross Domestic Happiness over GDP.

We checked into Hotel New Grand, we stayed there for two nights and on the second day we were told fresh towels would not be provided and guest have to reuse the same towel as it's their policy which was not mentioned during check-in. This defied all logic, when the guests are expected to pay for each nights stay such gimmicks should be avoided. Also, their restaurant is very mediocre, majority of items on the menu are not available and their WiFi barely works. Overall, this hotel can be avoided as there are plenty of other options.

The rice bowl restaurant was our favorite for Bhutanese food and just around the corner is the Bhutan Kitchen Restaurant, the perfect place to try authentic Bhutanese food.

Next stop Paro valley.

The true Glory of Sikkim- Pelling

Amidst huge alpine forests and farmlands with the magnificent Kanchenjunga in the background lies the quiet and secluded town of Pelling, the true glory of Sikkim. Pelling is gateway to Yuksom and gets you closest to Kanchenjunga with all the creature comforts available by your side. This place is a trekkers paradise and is the starting point for all adventure trails serving as the base camp for treks to Kanchenjunga National Park. With hardly any tourists and functioning just as a pit stop , this place has a lot to offer. Waterfalls, lakes in the vicinity, rich history and the fantastic views of the snowy mountains. And it forms the perfect post card picture as it is covered in a thick blanket of snow in winters.

A walk around the lane, at the first glimpse of dawn and you breathe in the aroma of tea decoction, hot aloo parathas immersed in ghee and of course a lot of activity on the road outside every tour and travels office. There are numerous travel offices providing packages to Rabdentse Ruins, Pemayangtse Monastery, Singshore Bridge, Changey Waterfall, Kachepori Lake and a trip to Yuksom. This is where all tours start and end with every vehicle all set to warm up their engines for the long ride ahead. However, if you are an explorer and want some leisure time while travelling venture out to these places on your own.

Rabdentse Ruins, the ancient Second capital of Sikkim, is a good 20 min walk and the path is neatly paved, The rock cut stones and the tiny bit of sun rays piercing through the branches of these high standing trees can easily trick you in getting lost in the wilderness had it not been for the path. Also, since it is a pretty long walk, ASI has installed interesting, witty and motivating signboards every few hundred meters to boost your morale and keep the travelers tempo up and going. On reaching the ruins, we were greeted by a stone cut 17th Century Chorten. From here on, the ruins take you back in time to the 17th Century. The entire complex is divided into palace, place of worship and residential area. You can catch a glimpse of the Pemayangtse Monastery perched high up on the mountain from here.

Pemayangtse Monastery, this three storeyed monastery was built in 1705 AD. The first floor is the main Prayer hall where we saw a group of Monks of all ages offering their respects and prayers. The second floor is a hall dedicated exclusively to the Holy text and manuscripts. The artifacts are centuries old and the best of the lot are the wooden manuscripts. On the third floor, we found exquisite and intricate wooden structure depicting Guru Rimpoche's Heavenly Palace. Beautiful paintings adorned the monastery walls. We were quite surprised to see a few paintings covered by a cloth.

We were curious to unravel the mystery and saw erotic paintings of tantric sexual postures. It left us dumbfounded to see this piece of art not being appreciated in its true form and it was being portrayed in negative light by covering it. It is shocking to see that the mentality of the 18th Century people was liberal and people of 21st Century from the so called modern era are narrow minded. Indeed a shameful reality that expressing passion is being considered taboo.

Around 25 km from Pelling is Asia's Second Highest bridge 'Singshore Bridge.' This bridge connects Dentam village to Uttarey village. We had the joy and thrill of riding on this 198 meter long bridge that can accommodate only one vehicle at a time.

Enroute to Singshore Bridge is the Changey waterfall, this massive fall is a treat to the eyes. Not just the waterfall but the Dantem market nearby is also very popular and worth a visit.

Another reason to definitely take up this 25 km This ride is even more memorable as you are welcomed by the bright and beautiful flowers. No wonder this state is so beautiful. Every house has their own garden with colorful flowers adding more charm to their already beautiful homes. And of course the cherry blossom trees on the road make the journey pleasing to the eyes. A stop to admire this rainbow of flowers and you will see butterflies and birds hopping from one flower to another.

This town being a small place, it comes as no surprise that everyone knows everyone here but the kindhearted people in this secluded town is the reason why this place will forever remain special. They treat their guests as their family members worrying about them walking out in the dark and  even offer you a torchlight if  you need to step out. They stay up late in the night till you reach safely to your room and have the same concerned look that you would see on your parents face when you reach home late in the night. This place surely felt home.

We checked into hotel Pine Valley in upper Pelling, this budget hotel is secluded yet only 2 minutes walking distance from the main bazaar. The rooms are pretty spacious and clean and their service is good. They have parking facility which is difficult to find in Pelling. Also, there are plenty of tour operators in the vicinity to carter to your sightseeing needs.

PS: Word of caution, there are bad roads, then there are worse roads, and then there are the roads from Pelling to Siliguri. Words cannot describe how awful the roads can get. The roads are rugged, dusty and tarmac appears in brief patches. In our opinion, majority of Sikkim is totally not accessible but for Gangtok. However, the amazing landscapes, valleys and the pristine natural beauty around you makes these challenges worthwhile.

Next Stop Bhutan.

On Top Of The World - Gurudongmar Lake!

North Sikkim, the uncharted territory, has one of most beautiful views of the Himalayas and is home to the third highest mountain peak in the world- Mt. Kanchenjunga.

Almost all of North Sikkim is under the Restricted Area and requires Inner Line Permit to visit which can be easily obtained at the Tourism office in Gangtok. Since this part of Sikkim is highly inaccessible, we decided to go for a Travel Package and chose a two day-one night package to Gurudongmar lake. Though the journey is perilous, Mother Nature makes it enthralling with the views of the surrounding valleys. The magnificent Teesta river graciously making her way down crisscrossing the mountains is breathtaking from all angles and is by far the most beautiful white water river that we have seen. While visiting the lake as a thumb rule you are required to stay overnight at Lachen to get acclimatized to the high altitude.

There are way too many options to explore en-route Lachen such as Phodong Monastery, Enchey Monastery, Seven sister waterfalls. Some lesser known but equally enchanting falls such as Naga falls surpass even the most famous Seven Sister Waterfalls. The Teesta is not just a sight to behold but the music she composes when she kisses the rocks touches your soul.

The dense forests, steep mountains and valleys, waterfalls, wooden bridges connecting the hills make the journey a very scenic one. Lachen is a beautiful town and most of the villagers have converted their homes into home stays. This village is striving hard to protect the environment and has banned the usage of plastic bottles to make their village a plastic free one. They ensure that they provide boiling hot water to their guests to beat the cold in an eco-friendly manner.

Our home stay in Lachen was beautiful. We were treated like a part of their family, having conversations at their table while having lunch and were treated to a huge variety of home made pickles. We also learnt how important and sacred the Gurdongmar Lake is for them. The lake does not freeze completely even in extreme cold temperatures as it was touched and blessed by Guru Padmasambhava and this part of the lake never freezes during peak winter.

Like the saying goes "No Pain No Gain," the following day we started our journey to Gurudongmar lake even before dawn could break and the biting cold hits you as soon as you leave Lachen. The journey was adventurous as it was pitch dark and we could not see the roads apart from catching a glimpse of tail lights at a far distance. Our car's headlight gave us a good understanding of how steep, narrow and dangerous the roads were. The roads were pretty damaged to say the least. It would take the experience of a highly skilled driver to be able to reach the lake in one piece.

On the way you will come across a couple of villages and you are left with awe and admiration at their ability to withstand and survive such extreme climatic conditions. At that hour in the night, the chill breeze and winds freeze the flowing river and there comes a point where you can see the complete river frozen with water flowing only at the ends of the bank. The water on the road also seems to be frozen and the driver had to maneuver with extreme caution.

Once you approach closer to the lake, you can catch glimpses of the snowy mountains that looked like a distant dream earlier and now they are so close to you that it is unimaginable. This is a sight to behold. Once, you enter the Army zone, you need to show your permit papers to the Army personnel and then continue your journey to the lake.

As the sun rose, we reached  Gurudongmar lake to see the suns rays kissing the icy blue water. It is a beautiful lake surrounded by icy mountains. The lake also serves as a pilgrimage site for the locals and is believed to be holy and grants all our wishes. It is tough to spend more than 10 minutes here as the cold breeze makes your body shiver and teeth chatter. The climate here is inhospitable to say the least.

Like all our other journeys this too would have been incomplete without any drama unfolding. The car that we had hired to take us all the way up to 17000 feet broke down a couple of km from the lake. It was just the two of us and the driver on that deserted road contemplating on how to reach the lake. Our only hope was another tourist vehicle that had room to accommodate us. After waiting for some fifteen minutes at near zero temperature another car pulled over and they were kind enough to allow us to hitch a ride. Luckily by the time we got back from the lake our car was fixed and thus began the journey back to Gangtok.

We got back into the comforts of our car and our eyes were moist with tears and hearts filled with even more respect for the awesome Men and Women of the Indian Army. Imagine them guarding our Borders, far away from their families at unimaginable altitudes and hostile conditions, keeping our enemies off our Mother Land. We were also lucky enough to see ten of Indian Army's Tanks. We were told that the Army was on a routine exercise and we could feel the vibration as the tanks rolled by. However tempting it might be please refrain from clicking pictures of the Army installations or camps as it is considered as a serious offence.

A good breakfast of piping hot maggi and chai was the best way to end this trip at one of the villages on our way back. The frozen ice on the engine and tyres gave us a chilling idea of how extreme the climate was.

We were thanking our stars that we did not do this trip on our motorcycle. Any Bullet lover would not want to put their bike through this treacherous route. It would be best to go with a skilled driver who is well versed with these roads as they are subject to constant landslides, potholes and broken bridges. Please note that when you hire a vehicle you choose a comfortable SUV. The Mahindra Maxx which is very commonly used is not a comfortable option. 

Things to consider before doing this trip:

• Terrible roads.
• Extreme cold weather.
• High altitude/ AMS.
• Distance from Gangtok.
• Steep slopes.
• No bike workshops.
• Layers of good Woolen clothes.
• In case you are particular about bottled water, it is a good idea to stock up from Gangtok.

All this put together makes it advisable to go with a packaged tour rather than doing this particular trip on your bike. However, if one can battle their way thru all of the hardships it is one hell of a place to visit. 

Next stop Namchi. 

Mountains Calling- Gangtok

The beauty of North Eastern states has it's own charm and we had our hearts set on visiting them. This dream finally turned into reality with Gangtok. Bidding adieu to the toy train and the beautiful home-stay in Darjeeling, we hit the open road again heading to Sikkim only to catch better views of Kanchenjunga.

The route to Gangtok from Darjeeling via Kalimpong is beautiful but be mindful of the very steep roads until you connect NH 31 A, that runs from Siliguri to Gangtok. The highway is fantastic to ride on offering views of deep gorges, alpine forests. snow clad mountains and river beds. From Kalimpong, BRO came to our rescue and offered spectacular roads until Gangtok. Since it is a hilly terrain, we recommend caution while riding on these roads as they are prone to landslides.

On the way to Kalimpong, we stumbled upon the beautiful village of Lamahatta, The pine forests on one side of the road and the mesmerizing views of the white mountains on the other side guarantee peace and tranquility. The best way to explore this village is to take a hike to a nearby lake surrounded by pine trees or a trek to the monastery that is more than a hundred years old. If you want to unwind, visit the garden and catch up on reading your book with the breeze helping you turn those pages. The perfect place for you to reconnect with Nature and get lost in your surroundings. This village with a population of less than a hundred is one of the few places that had not yet seen commercialization, virgin beauty at its best!

We reached the capital of Sikkim, Gangtok and we must admit it was pretty impressive. In our opinion, Gangtok is well planned and the infrastructure is better compared to Darjeeling. The city is very clean and litter free with a pleasant climate. A traveler can keep Gangtok as base and do a few tours- Gurudongmar lake, Yumthang Valley/Zero point, Nathu La Pass, Zuluk valley, Rumtek Monastery.

Like all monasteries, Rumtek Monastery too is perched really high on a hill with breathtaking views of the city. Also known as the Dharma Chakra Centre, this enchanting monastery has an institute for Monks within the premises and houses a Golden Stupa (Lhabab Chodten) that contains the precious relics and holy remains of the Sixteenth Gyalwa Karmapa Rangjung Rigpe Dorje. This monastery is heavily guarded by the Indian Army and you are required to provide an identification proof at the entrance so make sure you carry one with you.

It is a grave sin if you do not visit MG Marg while you are in Gangtok. An evening stroll is bliss here, vehicles are banned on this lane making it a walker's paradise and the entire Marg has brilliant watering holes. One can see the entire city unwind, mingle and relax here post sunset. We highly recommend Baker's Cafe as they serve exceptionally good food. Their pizzas and ginger black tea are perfect for the winter weather. And of course their heavenly ginger cookies and sinful waffles would make you visit their cafe everyday during the entire duration of your trip. No trip to a North Eastern state is complete without gorging on piping hot momos and thukpa and MG Marg provides a lot of options for those to choose from.

We checked into Park Residency, a very basic and budget accommodation with clean rooms and bath. They provide 24 hours running hot water and their location is brilliant. The service is exceptionally good, Mr. Gupta takes hospitality to new heights and is always available to help you plan your trip.

Next stop Gurudongmar Lake.