Ride To Heaven On Earth!

Blissful

It is a biker's dream to ride through the magical Himalayan passes, get awe inspired by breathtaking snow clad mountains, witness glacier melts gushing downstream, all screaming for attention.

Riding Thru Glacier Melt

Virgin beauty at its best- The 475 km ride offers thrilling view of deep gorge, mountain peaks, frozen lakes, and more plains. 

The mesmerizing ride starts from Manali, a lovely hill station in Himalchal Pradesh at an altitude of 2050m above sea level. The place has so much to offer - lovely apple orchids, Beas river, natural hot water springs, Hidimba temple, monasteries and thump of Royal enfield bullets crisscrossing Kullu valley. Above all, it is the gateway to Leh.

Picture Says It All

The Himalayan passes connecting Manali and Leh are open for 4 to 5 summer months (mid May to mid October.) Access and condition of the highways, that are maintained by Border Road Organization (BRO), depends on the amount of snowfall. You can check status here.

The area is prone to landslides which could result in heavy traffic jam on the highway. Remember here you are at the mercy of Nature.

Natures Fury

14/15 days would be ideal to ride from Manali to Leh, also cover Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso.

The Route

Manali -> Rohtang -> Keylong -> Jispa -> Baralacha La -> Sarchu -> Gata Loops -> Pang -> More Plains -> Tanglang La (Second Highest Pass) -> Upshi -> Leh.

Jispa, Sarchu or Keylong are best option for night stops. Jispa offers awesome tented cottages by Bhaga river. Avoid staying overnight at Pang due to it's high altitude, I would recommend Sarchu.

Road Map

The first and most important step is to hire the right bike - Royal Enfield, enough said! We hired bikes from Anu Auto works in Manali and the condition of the bikes were pretty good. I would suggest one to ride around the city for a couple of days and get used to the bike. This will help you fix any issues or worst case scenario change the bike before your ride could start. Respect the machine, it will ensure you have a smooth ride.

Keep in mind there is only one fuel station on the Manali - Leh highway at Tandi. Refill fuel in your bike and buy additional fuel (Jerry cans) as there are no petrol pumps for the next 350 kms. However, one would find villagers selling fuel on the way at a premium price, cannot guarantee the quality of fuel though.

Massive Snow Clad Peaks

Day 1 Manali

I had hired a Machismo 500cc, took her for a spin and got a few things fixed. And she was all set to be my best companion for the next 15 days to take me through one of the most toughest yet beautiful terrains. We visited Manali market and Hidimba temple. Manali was awesome, the perfect place to start your trip.

Kick Starting The Trip

Day 2 The Ride Commences

It was the best day of the tour, ending the long wait for this journey to begin. We left early to avoid the heavy traffic in Rohtang pass. It is a 52 km black carpet ride. As we approached the pass, Mother Nature had a surprise- there was a massive landslide the previous night and a heavy truck was literally thrown off the road leaving us stranded.

Traffic Jam Due To Landslide

The calm serene mountains had shown us, mere mortals, what it is capable of. Fury of nature could be unimaginable. Traffic was piled up for kilometers. It was snowing and this made things even worse, the pass soon turned into slick muck making it very difficult to crossover.

The India Army was pressed into action to rescue the truck and clear the road. It was amazing to see how swiftly they started their work. Heavy army vehicles tried their best to get the truck back on road. Like someone rightly said 'You cannot argue with Nature.' The more they tried to lift the truck, the more it triggered landslides. With no options left, we decided to camp that night hoping for the best.

Day 3

The next day we were rudely woken up by a noisy film crew. It was stunning Aishwarya Rai and Akshay Kumar filming a song sequence. After drooling for a bit we rode to the pass. By then, the BRO had turned their attention towards clearing the road. In matter of hours with the help of people stranded, the road was fixed and wheels were set in motion. One by one the vehicles started moving. It was difficult to ride through due to snow. Finally, we crossed Rothang pass and it was such a wonderful feeling.

Our Camp

Third day on there was no looking back, no hurdles, Mother Nature was very kind to us. We were passing through one of the most beautiful landscapes. It was a treat to our eyes mystic land far away from all commercialism, life here was so beautiful. A place where dal chawal and hot maggie was all that one needed and craved for. Those few settlements that you pass through everyone greets you with a smile.

One Of The Very Few Dhabas

Day 4

Pics Do Not Do Justice To This Place

We reached Leh, the then capital city of Himalayan kingdom. Leh is at an altitude of 11562 feet above sea level, hence altitude sickness is guaranteed, please be prepared. It is advisable to stay in Leh for a couple of days and get acclimatised, best to consult a doctor and get prescription to fight AMS.

Black Carpet

Attractions in Leh are plenty, you can ride to Sindh river- one of the best places to watch the sun set, Santhi stupa, Leh royal palace, War museum, and fantastic monasteries.

Rest of the days one could plan according to their convenience, a day's trip to Pangong Tso is highly recommended. This high altitude lake is 150 km from Leh it spreads across India and China.

Pangong Tso

Nubra valley - this cold desert is 150 km away from Leh and is famous for double humped camels. En-route one would pass through Kardhung la (17,582 ft) - the ultimate destination, widely claimed to be the world's highest motarable road. A quite pass housing an Army camp. One would not be able to spend a lot of time there due to the altitude, and low oxygen level. It is beyond explanation to set foot there it can only be experienced not explained.

18000 Feet - Awesome

To visit the above mentioned places you would have to get prior approval. Permits should be obtained from Leh tourist office. It is advisable not to approach tour operators for these permits as you might not get permits for all places, apart from burning a hole in your pocket.

An extensive trip to Kargil - Drass - Kashmir sector is possible if you have couple of extra days to spare. Provided there is no political unrest or curfew imposed. 

Returning to Manali was the toughest part - reason not the ride but parting ways with mighty Himalayas, scenic surroundings, waving and greeting locals, hot maggie and finally saying goodbye to the dear bullet. 

Leh is so charming you will not be able to stop yourself from visiting again! 

Things To Carry

Good Leather Jacket.
Gum Boots are mandatory.
Meds for altitude sickness is must.
Bike spares - fuse, clutch/accelerator cables, tube, chain links.
Puncture Repair kit.
Torch.
Helmet, Balaclava and good pair of riding gloves.
Jerry can.
Thermal wear.
Sunscreen lotion.
Nuts and chocolates.
Saddle bags.
Postpaid sim card. Prepaid cards do not work.
There are very few ATMs carry enough cash.
The lighter you pack the better the comfort.

Photo Blog Of Lonar & Its Temples

The Lonar crater lake is not the only thing that makes this town worth visiting. The temples in the town and around the lake are an unforgettable sight. The ruins, the architecture, the trek and the mystery around their existence all make Lonar a memorable destination.

Daitya Sudan Temple

Intricate Carvings at Daitya Sudan

Inner Sanctum Beautifully Carved

Crater Lake

Ruins hidden deep in the forest

Erotic Sculptures

Ocean Of Milk, Scenes From The Puranas

Lonar Crater Lake!

One of its kind phenomena on the planet is the Lonar Crater Lake with geological, geographical, mythical, scientific wonders - all served in one platter. The only hyper-velocity crater lake in the world formed from basaltic rock was created by a meteor impact some 52000 years ago and is the third largest salt water lake in the world. The mystery behind the aftermaths of the meteor impact as to why a compass fails to work in some parts of the crater, how it is able to support some rare micro-organisms that are hardly found at any other place on the planet, why is the water alkaline and saline and what lurks at the bottom of this lake make it even more intriguing.

The lake has been mentioned in some ancient scriptures such as the Skanda Purana, Padma Puran and Aina-i-Akbari. Locals believe that the town got its name Lonar after Lord Vishnu defeated the demon Lonasura. Scattered around the periphery of the lake are fifteen exquisite temples giving us a feel that they stand guard to protect the lake, barely the remains of which now stand to tell the tale of the glorious past. 

We were left awestruck when we caught the first glimpse of the green water surrounded by thick forests all around the lake and the steep slopes made us aware of the significant impact of the meteor. It was time to begin our trek and we started our descend but little did we realize that the descend would be fast, steep and slippery. Once we descended, we were greeted by Ram Mandir and Shiva Mandir. Of course, these temples are all in ruins now, a few of them even bat infested but these structures now covered in moss got us thinking of the purpose behind their existence. 

Walking around the circumference of the lake through the forest, thick shrubs, wetlands and rugged rocky terrain, we visited each of the temples. They had a magnetic charm and drew us towards them either due to their forgotten past or the architecture, both equally fascinating. The walls and pillars had exquisite carvings and sculptures some even erotic reminding us of the similarity it shares with the Khajuraho style of temples, the intricacy in all of it even when ransacked stands out speaking volumes of ancient times.

Post monsoon, a few of them are said to be partially submerged in water. Due to the salt content of the lake with PH levels at 10.7, the temple structures have faced lot of erosion and continue to do so. Only one of the temples is in great shape and the religious rituals happens everyday. 

It is not just for the crater that people visit this place. It is great place for trekkers and bird watchers. The area around the crater is rich in flora and fauna and it is indeed surprising to see birds and wildlife thriving in this vicinity. Apart from resident birds such as Indian roller, magpies, grey hornbill and others it also is a haven for a lot of migratory birds. It is also home for thousands of peafowls and chinkara, so don't be surprised if peacock calls keep you occupied during your trek. We ended up spotting a porcupine carcass and snake skin hidden behind one of the temple's pillar. While the place is void of people but for a few trekkers, once a year the locals gather here to celebrate Kamala Devi festival. 

After the trek around the lake, you start your climb and you are greeted by a waterfall and a mysterious perennial source of fresh drinking water, the source of which has never been established. Then comes the toughest part of climbing up a fleet of rock cut steps and on reaching the top you are greeted by the most striking Dhar. This is an ideal spot to end the tiring trek and it was a lovely moment to see the sunset with stellar views of the Lonar Crater Lake. 

Do keep in mind that this is not an easy trek, first we had to trek down 650 mt and then walk around the lake which is  roughly about 5 km. For the trek, you need a pair of perfect trekking shoes and a day pack with water and snacks. Once you start your trek there are no shops en-route. Safety is paramount, it is highly advisable to hire a guide as the route is tricky and at times the pathway is hidden behind thick shrubs. For hiring a guide, we highly recommend the services of  Mr. Rathore- a fine, knowledgeable, kind, patient and honest man. He is very informative and can be reached on- 9158925048.

A kilometer away from the crater and in the middle of the town, is another stunning structure- Daitya Sudan Temple. This Hemadpanthi style of temple is dated to the Chalukya dynasty that ruled parts of India between 6th and 12 century. Inside the inner sanctum do glance at the corner of the ceiling to be blown-away. It was breathtaking to see every nook and corner of the temple being decked up with stunning art. This temple is a stunning monument and reminded us of the great vibrant past this part of the country had.

Stay options in Lonar are very limited with a handful of very basic hotels. Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) runs a full fledged resort that is in fine form. This is one of the best properties to stay in Lonar. Also, this is the only place in town that serves good food. Autos are available easily and charge a reasonable amount to commute within the town. The resort people are very helpful and they arranged an auto for us to get back to our lodge post dinner. 

We checked into Krushna Lodge opposite the Bus Stand. It is a very basic lodge with spacious, clean rooms and is centrally located with easy access to autos that take you to the Crater Lake. The service at the lodge is pretty good. 

The best way to reach Lonar would be to reach Aurangabad first, and then a bus ride from CIDCO Bus terminal drops you directly at Lonar town for Rs.158 per person . If you happen to miss the direct bus, you can hop on to any bus heading to Sultanpur. From here, there are plenty of autos that ply to Lonar as it is just 11 km from Sultanpur.  The journey from Aurangabad to Lonar is very pleasant and we got to see the country side of India that is blessed with green pastures and the occasional brightly painted homes. 

Lonar Photo Blog.

Nepal Vehicle Entry Procedure For Travelers

Nepal, home to the highest peak- Mount Everest, is the most scenic destination and a perfect place for self riding/driving holiday destination. Indians do not require a visa or travel permit to visit Nepal. However, if you are crossing into the border on your own vehicle you have to get a vehicle permit at the border. The process is fairly simple and less time consuming.

The documents required are:

• Original RC.
• Photocopy of RC.

Please note passport size photographs are not required.

Procedure: You need to fill an application form, pay the fee and the permit is done. It took us 15 minutes to finish the process and hit the road. Good news is there are no touts to trouble around. Do have the receipt safe as there are multiple check points that ask for the appropriate documents. 

Two-wheelers are charged 200 Nepali Rupees per day. The border offices open at 8 am, it would be a good idea to reach the border early to beat the queue. At Kakarbhitta border, we were issued a permit for a maximum of 7 days. Most of the border posts issue it for a maximum of 7 days and to extend the permit we were asked to head to Kathmandu. 

Permit Extension Procedure:

For extension, one has to go to the Cargo Terminal at Kathmandu airport. Help will star coming to you immediately in the form of private agents and it is mandatory to use their services. The fee for agents is 500 Nepali rupee, the agent will take the documents and would enter the information in their database with details such as Engine, chassis and vehicle number using his username and agent ID. This information has to be precise and correct and will later be inspected by the Chief Customs Officer. 

After the data entry, your documents will be passed on to another official for signature. Post that you head to the bank within the airport premises to pay the fee for remaining days. For this you will get a receipt and then comes the most tricky and time consuming part. Since the customs department is the one issuing the vehicle permit you have to get hold of the Chief Customs Officer to verify and attest your vehicle chassis and engine number. This could be quite a task as this place is the International Cargo terminal and hence the officer tends to be way too busy. 

In our case, this process took over 3 hours. Also, do note that the vehicle permit can be obtained for a maximum of 30 days in a year. The word is if you overstay your vehicle will be impounded and you will have to face legal consequences. Do respect the rules and regulation of the Country. Also note that helmets are mandatory in Nepal. 

Tiger Nest - Humble Monastery That Put Bhutan On The World Map

The early morning mist, wet roads and an almost hidden narrow deviation from the highway crossing a few villages leads you to the parking lot of the most impressive trek of your lifetime. The Tiger's Nest trek. The view of the woods and horses grazing all around in the parking lot make you feel like the adventure has already begun. To reach the Takstang Monastery, you can trek all the way up or you can sit on the back of a horse for three fourth of the distance and then continue the rest of the climb on foot. We chose the more adventurous path - trekking all the way up to admire the beauty of the wilderness.

But before we could start the trek we joined a group of locals who lit a bonfire and were keeping themselves warm. The warmth from rubbing your palms and the bonfire gave us the much energy required to beat the cold and start the trek.

The trek path is well maintained and as you begin your trek you come across hydro powered prayer wheels spinning around at great speed. The path through the pine forests is steep but well worth it for the views of the Paro valley and of course the glimpses of the monastery captivating and recharging you to finish the trek. All through the trek path you find prayer flags fluttering and carrying the prayers to Almighty.

There are two cafes en-route the monastery. A stop at the main Cafeteria with a beautiful sit out and magnificent views of the monastery leaves you spellbound. This is the place where most of the trekkers end their trek and head back. The food offered is basic consisting of dal rice and noodles but considering the remoteness of the location it is a feast and the steep price is well worth it. Of course, the perfect place to enjoy the view with a hot cup of tea in your hand munching on some biscuits and witnessing this wonder of the world.

View From Cafe

After crossing the cafeterias, the path is much steep but with even better views of the Monastery. You finally reach the point where the horses end their journey and then begins the climb of rock cut steps leading you to the Monastery. The huge waterfall on the way, the sounds of which could be heard in the cafeteria takes your breath away.

It was thrilling to reach the monastery. Be it the dramatic location, the monstrous structure, the mythical stories, the adventurous trek, Tiger's Nest packs a powerful punch.  It is believed that Guru Ringponche flew up to the monastery on the back of a Tigress in order to subdue evil spirits in the vicinity and meditated in a cave here for three long months. It is one of the most sacred places for Buddhists in Bhutan as this is the birthplace of Buddhism in Bhutan. The monastery houses huge sculptures of various Buddhist gurus. Right next to the huge sculpture of Guru Ringponche is the cave in which he meditated. However, this is closed for public viewing and remains open only once in a year.

The most dramatic aspect of the monastery is the 'Tiger's Nest,' be sure to check out this cave located in between the Butter lamp room and Namsey Langhankha. This dramatic cave leads you to the edge of the mountain and throws open the view of Paro valley, this cave is where the mythical tigress rested long ago. However, please be cautioned that this place can only be reached by climbing down a couple of make shift wooden ladders. A slip here or there would result in broken bones and people hardly visit this place so getting help might be a distant dream.

A little before the entrance to the monastery is the Lion's Cave. This is where Yeshi Tsogyal, consort of Guru Ringponche meditated.

This monastery is nothing less of an engineering marvel. The master artisans and skillful carpenters of Bhutan have built such a wonderful monument centuries ago. And all of this was built without a blue print. It is believed that higher spiritual powers helped build this stunning monastery. A walk around the monastery witnessing this unbelievable wonder of the world that has survived a fire and still stands solid to tell the tales of history is mind blowing.

With a sense of calm, we started to climb down to the Valley.

Few things to keep in Mind:

• Mobile phones and cameras are prohibited inside the monastery premises and have to be deposited in the locker room. However, these lockers are not equipped with locks.
• It would be a great idea to leave a little early in the morning for the trek as the monastery visiting hours are from 8 am to 4 pm (during winter) and is closed for lunch from 1 pm to 2 pm. 
• One needs good amount of stamina for the trek. An average person would take anywhere between 2 to 3 hours to reach the monastery and it's quite a difficult trek.
• As it is a sacred site, please maintain decorum and respect the sanctity of the monastery .