Matheran Photo Blog

Matheran travel blog. 

Ride To Heaven On Earth!

Blissful

It is a biker's dream to ride through the magical Himalayan passes, get awe inspired by breathtaking snow clad mountains, witness glacier melts gushing downstream, all screaming for attention.

Riding Thru Glacier Melt

Virgin beauty at its best- The 475 km ride offers thrilling view of deep gorge, mountain peaks, frozen lakes, and more plains. 

The mesmerizing ride starts from Manali, a lovely hill station in Himalchal Pradesh at an altitude of 2050m above sea level. The place has so much to offer - lovely apple orchids, Beas river, natural hot water springs, Hidimba temple, monasteries and thump of Royal enfield bullets crisscrossing Kullu valley. Above all, it is the gateway to Leh.

Picture Says It All

The Himalayan passes connecting Manali and Leh are open for 4 to 5 summer months (mid May to mid October.) Access and condition of the highways, that are maintained by Border Road Organization (BRO), depends on the amount of snowfall. You can check status here.

The area is prone to landslides which could result in heavy traffic jam on the highway. Remember here you are at the mercy of Nature.

Natures Fury

14/15 days would be ideal to ride from Manali to Leh, also cover Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso.

The Route

Manali -> Rohtang -> Keylong -> Jispa -> Baralacha La -> Sarchu -> Gata Loops -> Pang -> More Plains -> Tanglang La (Second Highest Pass) -> Upshi -> Leh.

Jispa, Sarchu or Keylong are best option for night stops. Jispa offers awesome tented cottages by Bhaga river. Avoid staying overnight at Pang due to it's high altitude, I would recommend Sarchu.

Road Map

The first and most important step is to hire the right bike - Royal Enfield, enough said! We hired bikes from Anu Auto works in Manali and the condition of the bikes were pretty good. I would suggest one to ride around the city for a couple of days and get used to the bike. This will help you fix any issues or worst case scenario change the bike before your ride could start. Respect the machine, it will ensure you have a smooth ride.

Keep in mind there is only one fuel station on the Manali - Leh highway at Tandi. Refill fuel in your bike and buy additional fuel (Jerry cans) as there are no petrol pumps for the next 350 kms. However, one would find villagers selling fuel on the way at a premium price, cannot guarantee the quality of fuel though.

Massive Snow Clad Peaks

Day 1 Manali

I had hired a Machismo 500cc, took her for a spin and got a few things fixed. And she was all set to be my best companion for the next 15 days to take me through one of the most toughest yet beautiful terrains. We visited Manali market and Hidimba temple. Manali was awesome, the perfect place to start your trip.

Kick Starting The Trip

Day 2 The Ride Commences

It was the best day of the tour, ending the long wait for this journey to begin. We left early to avoid the heavy traffic in Rohtang pass. It is a 52 km black carpet ride. As we approached the pass, Mother Nature had a surprise- there was a massive landslide the previous night and a heavy truck was literally thrown off the road leaving us stranded.

Traffic Jam Due To Landslide

The calm serene mountains had shown us, mere mortals, what it is capable of. Fury of nature could be unimaginable. Traffic was piled up for kilometers. It was snowing and this made things even worse, the pass soon turned into slick muck making it very difficult to crossover.

The India Army was pressed into action to rescue the truck and clear the road. It was amazing to see how swiftly they started their work. Heavy army vehicles tried their best to get the truck back on road. Like someone rightly said 'You cannot argue with Nature.' The more they tried to lift the truck, the more it triggered landslides. With no options left, we decided to camp that night hoping for the best.

Day 3

The next day we were rudely woken up by a noisy film crew. It was stunning Aishwarya Rai and Akshay Kumar filming a song sequence. After drooling for a bit we rode to the pass. By then, the BRO had turned their attention towards clearing the road. In matter of hours with the help of people stranded, the road was fixed and wheels were set in motion. One by one the vehicles started moving. It was difficult to ride through due to snow. Finally, we crossed Rothang pass and it was such a wonderful feeling.

Our Camp

Third day on there was no looking back, no hurdles, Mother Nature was very kind to us. We were passing through one of the most beautiful landscapes. It was a treat to our eyes mystic land far away from all commercialism, life here was so beautiful. A place where dal chawal and hot maggie was all that one needed and craved for. Those few settlements that you pass through everyone greets you with a smile.

One Of The Very Few Dhabas

Day 4

Pics Do Not Do Justice To This Place

We reached Leh, the then capital city of Himalayan kingdom. Leh is at an altitude of 11562 feet above sea level, hence altitude sickness is guaranteed, please be prepared. It is advisable to stay in Leh for a couple of days and get acclimatised, best to consult a doctor and get prescription to fight AMS.

Black Carpet

Attractions in Leh are plenty, you can ride to Sindh river- one of the best places to watch the sun set, Santhi stupa, Leh royal palace, War museum, and fantastic monasteries.

Rest of the days one could plan according to their convenience, a day's trip to Pangong Tso is highly recommended. This high altitude lake is 150 km from Leh it spreads across India and China.

Pangong Tso

Nubra valley - this cold desert is 150 km away from Leh and is famous for double humped camels. En-route one would pass through Kardhung la (17,582 ft) - the ultimate destination, widely claimed to be the world's highest motarable road. A quite pass housing an Army camp. One would not be able to spend a lot of time there due to the altitude, and low oxygen level. It is beyond explanation to set foot there it can only be experienced not explained.

18000 Feet - Awesome

To visit the above mentioned places you would have to get prior approval. Permits should be obtained from Leh tourist office. It is advisable not to approach tour operators for these permits as you might not get permits for all places, apart from burning a hole in your pocket.

An extensive trip to Kargil - Drass - Kashmir sector is possible if you have couple of extra days to spare. Provided there is no political unrest or curfew imposed. 

Returning to Manali was the toughest part - reason not the ride but parting ways with mighty Himalayas, scenic surroundings, waving and greeting locals, hot maggie and finally saying goodbye to the dear bullet. 

Leh is so charming you will not be able to stop yourself from visiting again! 

Things To Carry

Good Leather Jacket.
Gum Boots are mandatory.
Meds for altitude sickness is must.
Bike spares - fuse, clutch/accelerator cables, tube, chain links.
Puncture Repair kit.
Torch.
Helmet, Balaclava and good pair of riding gloves.
Jerry can.
Thermal wear.
Sunscreen lotion.
Nuts and chocolates.
Saddle bags.
Postpaid sim card. Prepaid cards do not work.
There are very few ATMs carry enough cash.
The lighter you pack the better the comfort.

Matheran- A Perfect Monsoon Destination

Monsoons are the most cherished of all seasons with feelings of joy, romance, fun and awakening of a child within each of us. The pitter patter of rain drops, smell of earth, makes you crave for a hot cup of tea, a book in your lap instead of gadgets and getting drenched in rain, rejoicing the moment and forgetting all your worries.

If there is a place to experience sizzling monsoon in India, it is Matheran. This Eco friendly hill station has successfully managed an unimaginable feat by banning automobiles and it was only in the recent past that an ambulance was introduced. This summer retreat of the British era literally means "Forest on the forehead."

Since it is a vehicle free zone, at Dasuri, starting point of the hill station, one needs to park their vehicle if they are on a road trip. From Dasuri, a couple of hundred meters walk and you reach Aman Lodge. There are four options from Aman Lodge to reach Matheran- toy train, trek, horse back or hand pulled rickshaw. We highly recommend the Toy train- chugging on the tracks at its own pace, criss-crossing mountains offering spectacular views of green hills, it would be a 20 minute breathtaking joy ride. Choosing to trek is also a welcome option and would take close to 2 hours but the sights are worth the effort.

The trekpaths are the best way to explore this place, it gives you a feel of an explorer out in the jungle which is thrilling and exciting to say the least. A cup of chai, munching on garam garam bhutta and nature for company minus pollution makes life awesome. The occasional drizzle and thunder showers makes the moment romantic. The rains, green natural archways on red sand, fresh breeze, mist, and view of the waterfalls and valleys is something that makes this a vacation of a lifetime. This is the best way to rejuvenate by disconnecting with technology and connecting with yourself and your loved ones.

Though Matheran is the tiniest hill station in India, it still gives the other much hyped and commercialized hill stations run for their money. There are over 30 scintillating view points spread across 3 sq mile. Each view point has its own beauty with some offering captivating views of the deep gorges. For the adventurous soul, zippling allows you to reach the top of another hill in a matter of seconds passing through clouds making you feel like you have super powers.

And do not be surprised if you are accompanied by the most adorable and well behaved dogs tagging along and guiding you all the way. Yes, you would make some new friends and these little guys nudge you to climb up a few rocks for better views of the valley :) Without their help it might be impossible to find these hidden treasures offering stellar views.

The rest of the points offer great view of the waterfalls and the lake. Once you cross the path around the lake you reach Cecilia Point. Here, do stand on the rocks at the far end and feel the mist of waterfall all over. The wind blows with so much force that the water defies all laws of gravity, splashing you wet from head to toe. This feeling could only be experienced.

Matheran is a great place for trekkers as well, there are way too many mountains to hike and the feeling of accomplishment at the end of the hike fills you with pride. At lion's head point, the wind speeds gain massive momentum that they almost drag you along to the bottom of these magnificent valleys.

For a place that is vehicle free, it would be good idea to try and have as many signages as possible so that while walking along the trek-path people do not get lost. At every fork, we could see a bunch of people looking confused and not knowing which road to take. Of course, we took the one that was less traveled but on a serious note signages would be beneficial to avoid getting lost or walking miles in circles.

Also, do check out their Post Office, the most undermined department that has never received its share of due credit. At this modern age of digital era, we would never be able to truly appreciate their services. It is the only department to successfully reach the length and breadth of India. For ages this department has tirelessly carried messages fighting harsh climates, political turmoil, storms, riots and at times even bullets. Mighty Respect for this department and we would like to extend a huge thank you and gratitude for their services.

It is pretty easy to reach Matheran, Neral town is very well connected by train and road from Mumbai and Pune. We took a train to Neral junction from Mumbai and a quick shared taxi ride (INR 70 per person) took us to Dasuri town. On reaching Dasuri town one has entered Eco sensitive zone of Matheran. Capitation tax of Rs 50 is collected here and once past the booking office we were greeted by langurs, birds, pleasant & unpolluted cool breeze. It is fascinating to see an entire hill station in the 21st century without tarmac. The red sand adds so much life and charm to the surroundings.

If you plan to trek Matheran, set aside 3 days to cover all views points leisurely. One can also hire horse to visit the view points. In this case a 2 day trip is ideal. If you are a couple do carry an umbrella and when it pours step out for a romantic walk.

There are way too many stay options in Matheran. Radha cottage is a perfect resort in every possible parameter and is a 15 min walk from Matheran Railway station. This huge property is tucked away in a quite corner and almost all view points are accessible easily by walk. The best part about the cottage is the lush green around. And when it rains it takes the look and feel to a whole new level. The cottage serves lip smacking vegetarian & non-vegetarian Maharashtrian food and the variety they offer is rich. We stayed for 3 nights and not once did they repeat any dish which seems a pretty common thing with resorts. Their desserts are to die for. Their service is par excellence, the staff are courteous and very well behaved. They pay personal attention to all guests requests. The cottage also has TV and WiFi for those who cannot survive without technology, we did not connect to WiFi as virtual life can wait.

When in Matheran do taste honey & chikki. Another thing that stands out in Matheran is the street art focusing on Global warming and pollution. Matheran town is painted beautifully by moss in bright green that feels like velvet. At times mist seems to engulf the entire valley. The graffiti on the wall talks a lot about their interest in art and how they use art to drive down strong messages.

Matheran itinerary one- Radha cottage - Race Course - St. Xavier's school- Belvedere Point- One Tree Hill- Chowk Point- Rambaug- Alexander Point. This will take any where between 2 to 3 hours.

Itinerary two- Radha Cottage- Charlotte lake- Shiv Temple- Lord Point- Cecil Point- King George Point- Edward Point- Echo Point- Louisa Point- Malang Point- Coronation Point- Porcupine Point & Reach Radha via market.

A good pair of trek shoes are a must, rain gear & torch goes without saying.

Darjeeling- Queen Of Hills

Darjeeling, the sensational hill station, is mere 75 km away from Siliguri. Initially, the ride was exceptionally good. We had great roads, lush green tea plantations, the mountains and to add more charm- the tiny tracks of the famous toy train never left our sight. It was amazing to see these tracks crisscross through the ghat section. However, half way through the ride the roads turned narrow, became congested and were filled with potholes. This continued till we reached Darjeeling and the rider was faced with more challenges as the roads were way too steep to ride. There were times when the pillion had to get off the bike and give it a little boost.

Like the saying goes 'No pain no gain,' the finale was fruitful. Our very first sight of the phenomenal steam power locomotive made our day. The train was all decked up for a cultural show. It was indeed quite a lovely sight to admire this age old beauty serving to this day chugging out smoke and blowing the iconic horn that echoes around the valley. It awakened the child within us wanting to hop on to it for a joy ride.

This Queen of hill stations is way colder than any of the other places that we have been to in Nepal. The mornings are beautiful with the first sun rays falling on the peaks of Kanchengunga giving it an orange tinge. This place with abundant natural beauty soothes your soul almost instantly. The people are warm and welcoming and very helpful. The sun sets at 5 pm and so does the hill station. Shop owners shut their business at sunset. A perfect time to mingle with your family and friends around a bonfire, sharing stories and enjoying dinner. Unlike, the unhealthy lifestyle of always being hooked to your gadgets with virtual friends.

This place could have been more beautiful had it not been for the poor infrastructure. The narrow roads make sure that vehicles pile up one behind another for kilometers. In spite of the jam, the people wait patiently following traffic rules but for the vehicles that run for the government. If you are on your own vehicle you might have a nightmare finding a parking spot. Apart from the abundant natural beauty, Darjeeling offers some spectacular monasteries such as Ghoom, Dali, Bhutia Busty.

The Ghoom monastery is very calm and peaceful. It is ideal to visit the monastery in the evening and watch monks showcase their soccer skills. They were at their innovative best, playing with a make shift ball rolled out of nothing but plastic bags that was taking a beating.

Dali Monastery, home to more than 200 monks, was built by Kyabje Thuksey Rimpoche in 1971. The walls of this monastery are adorned with beautiful paintings depicting the life of Buddha. It also has a library with a huge collection of books on Buddhism and Tibetan culture.

Bhutia Busty Monastery is a lesser known monastery hidden high up on a hill offering a very peaceful and serene atmosphere. The view of the entire town from here is pretty spectacular. Tucked away 12 km from Darjeeling, it is well worth a visit. An interesting fact about the monastery is that though it is located in the West Bengal district of Darjeeling, it belongs to the State of Sikkim. This place also attracts few tourists as it is believed to house the  'Tibetan Book of the Dead' in their library but contrary to this popular belief, the monastery has given a clarification that it does not exist.

The Batasia loop, an engineering marvel, is where the toy train makes a 360 degree turn. A War Memorial was constructed in 1995 at this site to pay homage to martyrs of this land who did the supreme sacrifice - Laid down their lives to protect their Motherland.

Padmaja Naidu Zoo - This zoo is internationally recognized for its conservation breeding programs of Snow Leopard, Red Panda and Tibetan Wolf. It is the first in South East Asia to have successfully bred Red Panda in captivity and later released them in the wild. It is funny how mankind functions, we as beings are so self centered that we do not care about the repercussions urbanization has on the environment. By the time we wake up, it is already too late.

Though we do not appreciate animals being kept in captive, it is commendable to see the conservation efforts taken up by this zoo. Padmaja Naidu Zoological Park is specialized in educating, creating awareness, captive breeding and releasing endangered animal species in their natural habitat- the Eastern Himalayan region. Some noteworthy wildlife here includes Black Leopard, Snow Leopard, Clouded Leopard, Common Leopard, Red Panda, Leopard Cat, Jungle Cat.

Within the park premises is the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. The museum in the institute is worth a visit as it exhibits gears used by mountaineers for expeditions. Please keep in mind that the zoo and institute are closed for maintenance every Thursday. A kilometer away from the zoo is the Tenzing Rock where you can try your hand at rock climbing.

Last but not the least, your trip to Darjeeling is incomplete if you do not ride on the UNESCO World Heritage Himalayan Railway or the affectionately called Darjeeling Toy Train. The joy ride covers 14 km and lasts for about 2 hours. The toy train stops at the Batasia Loop War Memorial for about 10 minutes and for 30 minutes at Ghoom railway station giving one enough time to visit the Ghoom Railway museum. It is an incredible experience to travel on this piece of History, lovely to see the train chugging through the small hill town and providing mesmerizing views of Kanchenjunga. Everyday there are 4 joy rides with very limited seats. It would be a good idea to plan and accommodate this first in your itinerary. Each ticket costs 400 INR.

We checked into Merry Resort, this is easily one of the best properties in Darjeeling. Once a home for the Maharaja, this heritage property was converted to a hotel or more of a home-stay. The views of the Kanchenjunga from the room are priceless. It is tucked away in a corner with no clutter around and lots of breathing space which is really hard to find in Darjeeling. At the same time, it is only 2 km away from the main market and all other tourist attractions are dotted nearby. The place offers 24 hours running hot water, WiFi at the lobby and brilliant food. The staff are friendly and helpful. Above all, the pricing is a steal deal.

Next stop Gangtok.