Riding Into The Happiest Kingdom Bhutan

One thing that stands out about Bhutan is its pristine beauty. The mist, the forest around, traditional wooden homes with colorful carvings or paintings, monasteries, scintillating landscapes beautifully painted by colorful trees makes you feel like you have entered a fantasy World. The Land of the Thunder Dragon as it is popularly known, is truly a biking country. Riding our bike on these wide roads with greenery all around, the clouds blessing us with little raindrops and the river stream swaying through made us hope that this road would never end.

Our Bhutan ride was simply the best and most enjoyed stretch in our whole ride across Nepal, Sikkim & Bhutan. The BRO have done a fabulous job in maintaining the roads to compliment the beauty of Nature that Bhutan has to offer. It really is a 'Paradise on earth.' The sun constantly plays hide and seek with you and the clouds join in. They make you doubt your own watch as 1:30 in the afternoon may seem like 6 in the evening. On the way, 'Dantak Canteen' 75 km from Phuentsholing (the entry point) is a perfect place to stop for lunch. It serves hot and spicy food and Indian food seems to be their specialty. Their special tea easily replaces one peg of whiskey in the cold weather.

Riding on Bhutan roads leaves you amazed by their traffic sense, their patience, and their respect for pedestrians. With so many junctions on a single lane you may expect traffic jams and grid locks but forget traffic jams this country does not need red, yellow or green lights to keep them in check. Yes, they do not have traffic signals yet they believe in following traffic rules and need not be manned by cops all the time. They follow the law whether someone is looking or not and this is what speaks volumes about their culture, values and the kind of people they are.

Our interaction with locals here confirmed the fact that Bhutan truly is a happy country. People here are content with their lives, give importance to cleanliness, they know that money can fetch you materialistic things but they do know that money cannot truly buy you happiness, which is a choice and they choose to be happy. Everyone you meet has a smile and they are very grounded and welcome you to their homes with open arms. They can be seen flaunting around their traditional attire, gho and kira, being at ease wearing them on a daily basis and do not feel the need to imitate other countries as they are very proud of  their deep rooted traditional and cultural values and why not- the basic act of being kind and respectful to another human being reflects among each one of them.

Thimphu, the capital, is a wonderful place to begin your travel for the first time in a Kingdom. It is the lifeline of Bhutan with a lot of activities around. Apart from being tourist friendly with abundant hotels and restaurants, there are a lot of  exhibitions organised to promote handicrafts from different parts of Bhutan. The weekend markets are definitely worth a visit and if you are a sports enthusiast, you might want to give a shot at Archery in Thimphu. They are also huge fans of Football and while we there, there was a Football Championship going on and the crowd was going berserk.

A 20 minute ride from Thimphu on a road between huge pine trees, strewn with the brown needle drops and of course the cold wind running the chills across your face lingering with the fragrance of Earth leads you to a brick establishment on a rock, sheltered by massive trees with the blue sky and white clouds in the background glorifying the monastery even more making you wonder if this is the the stairway to heaven.

This monastery is the Dechenphu Lhakhang popularly known as 'Denchen Pho' and is of great religious importance to the Bhutanese people. Non Bhutanese visitors are not allowed inside the Dzong but are free to visit the Monastery.

Apart from a handful of locals you will not spot anyone else here making it the ideal place for solitude and to get lost in your thoughts. Just sit on the grass, close your eyes and this place soothes you automatically leaving you in a trance mode.

On the foot hills is the Pangrizampa Lakhang. Today, this temple is used as an Astrologers Center of the state clergy and is home to close to 100 monks studying Astrology.

Tashichhoe Dzong, also called the "Fortress of the Glorious Religion," is the powerhouse and administrative building of Bhutan. It houses the throne room and offices of the king, the cabinet secretariat and the ministries of the home affairs and finance. It is open for public viewing from 4 to 5 pm. However, be there a little early to see the Royal Police Guards unfurl the Bhutan National Flag. While entering the Dzong, we were captivated by the paintings on the wall, each even more  impressive than the other. The Dzong is massive and beautiful and there is a huge monastery within the Dzong.

Bhutan National Library is a treasure trove of Bhutanese and Tibetan literature, be it ancient manuscripts carved on wood or written on handmade paper, they are all preserved at their pristine best. This three storeyed wooden building serves as a home for Monks and scholars. Most of the ancient manuscripts are wrapped in silk cloth. On the ground floor of the library is another great piece of history, the "Largest Published Book" in the World.

Only a few kilometers away from the National library is the Zilukha Nunnery which is the biggest nunnery in Bhutan. The nuns here are actively involved in helping the less privileged and the local communities. The panoramic view of the Tashichhoe Dzong from here is breathtaking.

The entire Kingdom seems to idolize the King and the Queen and is apparent from the Portraits and hearty message from the public to the royal family. Our sincere respect to the country as it values Gross Domestic Happiness over GDP.

We checked into Hotel New Grand, we stayed there for two nights and on the second day we were told fresh towels would not be provided and guest have to reuse the same towel as it's their policy which was not mentioned during check-in. This defied all logic, when the guests are expected to pay for each nights stay such gimmicks should be avoided. Also, their restaurant is very mediocre, majority of items on the menu are not available and their WiFi barely works. Overall, this hotel can be avoided as there are plenty of other options.

The rice bowl restaurant was our favorite for Bhutanese food and just around the corner is the Bhutan Kitchen Restaurant, the perfect place to try authentic Bhutanese food.

Next stop Paro valley.

The true Glory of Sikkim- Pelling

Amidst huge alpine forests and farmlands with the magnificent Kanchenjunga in the background lies the quiet and secluded town of Pelling, the true glory of Sikkim. Pelling is gateway to Yuksom and gets you closest to Kanchenjunga with all the creature comforts available by your side. This place is a trekkers paradise and is the starting point for all adventure trails serving as the base camp for treks to Kanchenjunga National Park. With hardly any tourists and functioning just as a pit stop , this place has a lot to offer. Waterfalls, lakes in the vicinity, rich history and the fantastic views of the snowy mountains. And it forms the perfect post card picture as it is covered in a thick blanket of snow in winters.

A walk around the lane, at the first glimpse of dawn and you breathe in the aroma of tea decoction, hot aloo parathas immersed in ghee and of course a lot of activity on the road outside every tour and travels office. There are numerous travel offices providing packages to Rabdentse Ruins, Pemayangtse Monastery, Singshore Bridge, Changey Waterfall, Kachepori Lake and a trip to Yuksom. This is where all tours start and end with every vehicle all set to warm up their engines for the long ride ahead. However, if you are an explorer and want some leisure time while travelling venture out to these places on your own.

Rabdentse Ruins, the ancient Second capital of Sikkim, is a good 20 min walk and the path is neatly paved, The rock cut stones and the tiny bit of sun rays piercing through the branches of these high standing trees can easily trick you in getting lost in the wilderness had it not been for the path. Also, since it is a pretty long walk, ASI has installed interesting, witty and motivating signboards every few hundred meters to boost your morale and keep the travelers tempo up and going. On reaching the ruins, we were greeted by a stone cut 17th Century Chorten. From here on, the ruins take you back in time to the 17th Century. The entire complex is divided into palace, place of worship and residential area. You can catch a glimpse of the Pemayangtse Monastery perched high up on the mountain from here.

Pemayangtse Monastery, this three storeyed monastery was built in 1705 AD. The first floor is the main Prayer hall where we saw a group of Monks of all ages offering their respects and prayers. The second floor is a hall dedicated exclusively to the Holy text and manuscripts. The artifacts are centuries old and the best of the lot are the wooden manuscripts. On the third floor, we found exquisite and intricate wooden structure depicting Guru Rimpoche's Heavenly Palace. Beautiful paintings adorned the monastery walls. We were quite surprised to see a few paintings covered by a cloth.

We were curious to unravel the mystery and saw erotic paintings of tantric sexual postures. It left us dumbfounded to see this piece of art not being appreciated in its true form and it was being portrayed in negative light by covering it. It is shocking to see that the mentality of the 18th Century people was liberal and people of 21st Century from the so called modern era are narrow minded. Indeed a shameful reality that expressing passion is being considered taboo.

Around 25 km from Pelling is Asia's Second Highest bridge 'Singshore Bridge.' This bridge connects Dentam village to Uttarey village. We had the joy and thrill of riding on this 198 meter long bridge that can accommodate only one vehicle at a time.

Enroute to Singshore Bridge is the Changey waterfall, this massive fall is a treat to the eyes. Not just the waterfall but the Dantem market nearby is also very popular and worth a visit.

Another reason to definitely take up this 25 km This ride is even more memorable as you are welcomed by the bright and beautiful flowers. No wonder this state is so beautiful. Every house has their own garden with colorful flowers adding more charm to their already beautiful homes. And of course the cherry blossom trees on the road make the journey pleasing to the eyes. A stop to admire this rainbow of flowers and you will see butterflies and birds hopping from one flower to another.

This town being a small place, it comes as no surprise that everyone knows everyone here but the kindhearted people in this secluded town is the reason why this place will forever remain special. They treat their guests as their family members worrying about them walking out in the dark and  even offer you a torchlight if  you need to step out. They stay up late in the night till you reach safely to your room and have the same concerned look that you would see on your parents face when you reach home late in the night. This place surely felt home.

We checked into hotel Pine Valley in upper Pelling, this budget hotel is secluded yet only 2 minutes walking distance from the main bazaar. The rooms are pretty spacious and clean and their service is good. They have parking facility which is difficult to find in Pelling. Also, there are plenty of tour operators in the vicinity to carter to your sightseeing needs.

PS: Word of caution, there are bad roads, then there are worse roads, and then there are the roads from Pelling to Siliguri. Words cannot describe how awful the roads can get. The roads are rugged, dusty and tarmac appears in brief patches. In our opinion, majority of Sikkim is totally not accessible but for Gangtok. However, the amazing landscapes, valleys and the pristine natural beauty around you makes these challenges worthwhile.

Next Stop Bhutan.

Sanchi, Vidisha & Udaigiri Caves.

Day 41 Bhopal To Sanchi, Vidisha & Udaigiri

Distance: 50 km
Road Condition: Very good

The Great Stupa

Sanchi Stupas, the first stone monuments in India leave you spellbound! Built in the 3rd century BC, atop a hillock, these magnificent stone structures are nothing less than a feat of engineering ingenuity. These breathtaking Stupas built by Emperor Ashoka mark the birth of Buddhism. These World heritage monuments stand as a fine example of Classical Indian Architecture.

The Stupa 1, towering over 16 mt in height & 36 mt in diameter, embellishing triple umbrella on the Dome is the center of attraction. One can find intricate carvings depicting the 'Life Of Buddha.'

Stupa 1

Stupa 2

Stupa 3

Every ruin has a sad story to tell and this place is no exception. Walking across the Stupas, one comes across a ruined pillar.  As the story goes, this pillar which was erected by Ashoka was destroyed by a local Zamindar. Only the lower portion of the pillar stands while the remains are now preserved under a shed. This pillar carries a strong message from Ashoka warning the Monks & Nuns of expulsion, if found to create schism within Buddhist Community.

The Britishers did not leave empty handed, the contents of the Stupas were shipped to England.

Vidisha & Udaigiri Caves

India is a treasure trove & never fails to amuse even the most seasoned Traveler, Vidisha is a fine example. This quiet town teleports one to the 3rd century - the structure, ruins, caves & pillars leaves one speechless. It gives any Indian immense bragging rights. Once a thriving town, this most sought after trade destination was abandoned during 6th century and till date continues to remain in an antique state. The ruins of Brahmanical Shrine here, reveals that the foundation bricks are cemented together with Lime Mortar, the first known example of use of cement in India.

Close to the ruins still stands 'Khambha Baba/ Heliodorus Pillar,' a free standing 20 feet pillar. Helio Dorus an ambassador from Taxila constructed this pillar to pay homage to Vasudev, Lord Vishnu. This pillar is strikingly similar to that of Ashoka pillar.

In 4th century AD came into being Udaigiri Caves, a series of rock cut carving with emphasis on the preaching of Hinduism & Jainism. These caves established by Vikramaditya stand as testimony of the craftsmanship during that period. Udaigiri caves represents great Indian craftsmanship, imagine such carvings done at an era when stone was the only tool available. I think it would be safe to assume that human race was much more smarter, better skilled & naturally gifted before modernization & fancy gadgets kicked in. The most significant features are the carving of 'Varaha,' the 3rd incarnation of Lord Vishnu & the statue of Vishnu resting, both carved out of single piece of rock.

Irony is Gods, the creator & protector of the human race, are now locked behind steel enclosures in order to keep them safe from humans because it is important for Pinku to express his eternal love for Tinku on centuries old monuments!

Checked into Hotel Samodhi at Sanchi- the property is value for money. Pretty spacious & clean rooms, the service & food is very good. Stay options are very basic & minimal, it is advisable to stay in Bhopal.

Our next stop- Bhimbetka.

Bhopal

Day 40 Gwalior To Bhopal

Distance 424 km 
Road condition: Moderate to Bad

Taj-ul-Masjid

Bhopal, the Capital of Madhya Pradesh, comes as a big surprise for people from metros or any developed cities. It is way ahead of it's time - brilliantly planned city with wide roads, express lanes for bus, immaculately functioning signals & people following traffic rules adds more beauty to the city.

The Upper & Lower lakes in Bhopal are very well kept and makes it an ideal place for a perfect evening. Sail, speed boats & ferries are available for hire, cruising on one of them & watching the sunset makes it a great experience.

Be sure to check out the Imposing Taj-ul-Masjid in old city. This is believed to be the largest Mosque in India. The most striking feature of the Mosque is the pillars towering to great heights flaunting brilliant Islamic architecture.

Jama Masjid, built in 1837, continues to impress people with its gold spikes on the domes. It would be a great idea to visit this mosque early in the morning when it is free from all chaos. The lanes that lead to the Masjid would be very crowded later during the day owing to the several hundred shops that have mushroomed around.

Sair Sapata: This amusement park on the other side of the lake is a great place for kids to have a ball. The toy train being the highlight, there are quite a few restaurants to pamper your taste buds. There are plenty of other activities to keep the kids engaged.

Despite all development and buzz there still lingers a dark shadow on Bhopal reminding us of the 'Bhopal Gas Tragedy.' The Union Carbide Factory that stands as a testimony of the tragedy that had befallen on Bhopal. The factory, in ruins today, continues to contaminate the environment and the area is still off-limits.

We checked into Hotel Sarthak in New Market. The rooms are spacious & clean, their service is good. Location of the hotel is brilliant. The food is good. Rooms offer a TV & fridge. They have exclusive car park.

From here we head to Sanchi. 

Gwalior

Day 27 Shivpuri To Gwalior

Distance: 200 km

Road condition: Average to Bad.
We were advised not to take the Datia route as it was in terrible condition. It was a dry 200 km drive with no food options en route.

Gwalior Ki Shaan

The city of Gwalior was founded in the 8th century by Suraj Sen & named after Saint Gwalipa who cured the king of a deadly disease. Gwalior served as the Capital city for many royal dynasties. The invincible fort dominates the city. The splendid temples & palaces left behind stand as testimony of the Royals.

The massive fort on a cliff, 300 ft above ground level continues to epitomize Hindu architecture. At the foot hill you are greeted by huge Jain statues carved out of the mountain.

Rock Cut Mahavir

The fort complex is home for Man Singh Palace, 11th century Sas Bahu mandir, 9th century Teli Ka Mandir, Gurudwara, Suraj kund and the Scindia School.

For The Bahu 

For The Saas

The splendid Raja Mansingh Palace built in 1508 AD, is a four storeyed monument of which two are underground. This magnificent palace proudly flaunts the glazed iconic blue tiles with varied painting of figures like ducks, humans, peacocks etc. on its exterior wall. In its heyday, the entire palace was beautifully lit up with these tiles, much of it now remains in bits & pieces, telling a tale of the destruction the fort has witnessed.

Teli Ka Mandir: This temple soaring 30 mt in height is of Dravidian style & the carvings are from Indo Aryan period.

Jai Vilas Palace: This neo-classical palace, the residence of the royal family, takes you back in time and showcases the lifestyle of the Maharajas!

Home Of Royals

A section of the palace is converted into a museum exhibiting silver baggi & rath, Persian carpets, armoury, crystalware, paintings, stuffed white tiger skin & other precious artifacts.

The highlight of the museum tour is the Darbar Hall, that houses two Belgium glass cut chandeliers, each weighing 3.5 ton and were hung only after 10 elephants had tested the strength of the roof.

The magnificent chandeliers have made the palace famous and the hall housing the chandeliers is decked up with 560 kg of melted gold.

The dining hall houses a train that carries cigars, wine & champagne, used till date by the Royal family to host lavish dinners.

While in the study room, do catch a glimpse of the vintage kerosene run fans & phonograph.

Made In 1914

Another section of the palace is now converted to a heritage hotel, run by Taj group. If you want to have a real sense of how to live life King size, this palace is a must visit.

Gwalior is a foodies paradise, do try the faluda ice-cream, chaat, Bahadura's laddus made in desi ghee & finish with paan from Rathore at Gandhi market.

From here we head to Bhopal.

Shivpuri

Day 26 Orccha To Shivpuri

Distance: 120 km

Road Condition: Very good 4 way lane.

Chhatri In Memory Of Madhav Rao Scindia

Shivpuri, the then summer capital of Scindia rulers, is a small town with great places of interests such as Madhav National Park, George Castle, Chattris & Tatya Tope memorial.

Madhav National Park: It is a great park but sadly almost all wildlife was wiped out due to rampant hunting by the Royal family and their friends. The 20 km drive inside the park hardly yielded in any wildlife sighting. However, it is a bird watcher's paradise. The park is open from sunrise to sunset with no specific safari timings.

Within the park premises is the massive man-made Sakhya Sagar lake, home for marsh crocodiles. The lake has abundant water even during peak summer and is a good place to spot wildlife & birds quenching their thirst. MPTDC operates a boat club offering joyrides.

George Castle: Within the national park stands tall George Castle built by Maharaja Jiyaji Rao Scindia for the King Of England George V. It was built as a rest house for the King during his visit to hunt tigers, it so happened that he shot and killed one on the way and hence never stayed here.

These majestic beasts that were once found in abundance here are now completely wiped out. All to prove machismo of Nawabs, Kings and Britishers. The panoramic view of the national park from atop George Castle is fabulous. The castle is now converted into a museum.

Madhav Rao & Maharani Sakhya Raje Scindia Chhatri: In their memory the Scindia family have built 2 magnanimous Cenotaphs facing each other. These monuments are nothing less than architectural marvels. Especially the one dedicated to Madhav Rao Scindia built with sparkling white marbles is stellar.

The doors are made of silver and the exquisite mural wall paintings are a delight. This place is ideal to spend a quiet evening and watch the sunset.

Truly Royal - Silver Door

Tatya Tope memorial: Betrayed by his friend Man Singh this is where Legendary Tatya Tope's trial was conducted and he was publicly hanged to death by the British Raj for the Revolt of 1857.

Legend Lives On

We checked into Tourist village Shivpuri operated by MPTDC, this is one of the best properties. The property is brilliantly laid-out and the aesthetics are very good. It is at the edge of Madhav national park & shares boundary with Sakhya sagar lake. Resort houses swimming pool, gym, indoor games area & adventure activity zone. Mountain bikes are also available on rent. Food standards are pretty good. The boat club is within the resort premises.

Next destination Gwalior.