Hornbill Festival A Photo Story

A lot more to read about Hornbill Festival.

Celebration of Life- Hornbill Festival

Hornbill Festival had been on our bucket list for a long time. The desire to see the tribes, know more about their culture and a fascination towards their way of living drew us to Nagaland. We definitely were fortunate to have been a part of the celebrations of the festival of festivals- Hornbill.

The 2015 Hornbill festival started with great extravaganza and you can hear the folk songs, the beats of the log drums and war cry of the tribes at the parking of Kisama Village, the venue for Hornbill. This festival not only provides an insight to the Naga tribes and culture but also gives an insight to the culture of all the other North Eastern states as well. These 10 days are more of celebrating life with an understanding of tribal heritage and getting a glimpse of the diverse cultures and cuisines of North East India. The best 10 days that you can live witnessing their indigenous games, listening and dancing to their music and folk songs. It is more like attending a wedding where food and drinks are in abundance, music and dance to keep you entertained with everyone dressed in their traditional best and of course laughter all around.

Hornbill festival not only unites the tribes of North East India but also whole of India. Artists from different part of India bring in their culture and celebrations. Cultural artists from Andhra had put up a great show and won the hearts of thousands of people in the audience. Any musical and cultural festival in India is definitely not complete without Punjabi Bhangra dance and here too Bhangra was saved for the last and the friendly North East folks too tried their hands at it.

After the cultural shows were wrapped up there was a fusion by all musicians and at that moment we understood why musicians across the globe are idolized by millions. The entire crowd was welcomed on stage and had their dancing shoes on. Music surpassed all communication and language barriers and untied people from all parts of the World to beat to one tune. The true essence of a festival- celebration of life could be captured in that one moment.

An entire day during the Hornbill is exclusively dedicated to Naga culture. Each of the 16 tribes portray their folklore and culture through dance, music or performances. The small Kisama heritage village comes to life and showcases the awesome features of the 16 Naga tribes. Each tribe has its own Morung where we saw men and women of the tribe dressed in their traditional attire. The Morungs are constructed in their unique and traditional way of that tribe displaying the artifacts and their way of living. Various cultural programs are performed to the delight of the visitors and visitors can even join them. One also gets to taste authentic Naga cuisine at each morung. Of course, no meal would be complete without gulping down the Naga rice beer from the traditional bamboo mugs.

The artisans corner is a treat for outsiders and also provides an understanding of the skill required, the man-hours put in and of course the beauty of the end product. We got a peek into the authentic lifestyle of Nagas. Bamboo mat making and basket making which was earlier the domain of men and considered a taboo for women has now broken free from superstitions. The womenfolk of the Ao tribe have led the way in overcoming all barriers and turning this art into a means of livelihood. The Konyak tribe of Longwa village are master metal craftsmen, they are renowned for metal craft-ware using wax process technique.

Salt extraction- Peletkie Village in Peren is famous for its mineral salt extraction. The locals extract salt from mineral springs using indigenous techniques. The whole procedure involves continuously boiling spring water for 3 nights and 4 days and a total of 100 baskets of firewood is required to extract 40 cakes of mineral salt. The salt is believed to have medicinal properties and is widely used for rejuvenation.

Right next to the artisans corner is the World War II Museum, an ideal place for history buffs. The World War II Vintage Car Rally organized by the Nagaland Adventure and Motor Sports Association is a showstopper and the mecca for Vintage car enthusiasts. Vintage Willys rally started from Dimapur and culminated at Kisama. They did their best to give an authentic feel of World War II with men dressed in army uniforms of different nations armed with prop guns.

Apart from the cultural programs, there is a culinary competition, adventure sports competition, literature festival, photo competition and indigenous competitions such as wrestling, fire eating, and the most anticipated Naga Chilli eating competition.

Kisama Village also has numerous stalls and you can pick up a range of products. From wooden handicrafts to hand looms to herbal and organic products. Exceptionally well made handcrafts are on sale. There are several amazing artifacts to choose from and one would be spoilt for choice.

The floral and agricultural galleries are total stunners. The most amazing part about this was the stall promoting the 'Hydroponics' system which is nothing but soil less farming. Organic and fresh fruits and vegetables are up for sale. The amazing fragrance was so inviting that one yields to the temptation of trying a kiwi or orange immediately.

For music lovers, renowned bands from different countries and states perform at the hockey grounds. These concerts are the perfect way to end the day on a high note.

The night carnival sets off the party side of Kohima. Vehicles go off the road and in place comes hundreds of stalls selling clothes, household items, flowers, toys, colorful face masks, temporary tattoos and of course several food stalls that sell authentic Naga delicacies.

We were exposed to a whole new level of non vegetarian cuisine in Nagaland. Ranging from pork, beef, snail and plenty of insects and worms on the menu, dog meat is also preferred and loved by the Nagas. Food is celebration of life and everyone has their own tastes, it is incorrect to judge anyone on any basis especially on their food habits. Sadly, the society and even the government in some cases seem to have a say on what people should or should not eat. In this century living in a free country and you cannot choose what can be on your plate.

While there are just a handful of options to stay in Kisama, Kohima which is only 12 km from Kisama, has tons of options to suit all budgets. It is pretty easy to commute as well, one can either hire a taxi or travel with the locals like we did in the city bus to PR hills and from there shared taxis ply to Kisama at Rs.50 per seat.

More picture from Hornbill Festival.

Experiencing The Beauty Of North East India

Loktak Lake

Our very first slow backpacking trip was to one of the least explored territories of India, North East India- the land of festivals. North East India has always been a fascination for us as she is so inviting and beautiful. Mother Nature has been very kind to this part of India blessing her with pristine lakes, magical streams, gorgeous rivers, breathtaking waterfalls, blue mountains, deep caves, rich flora and fauna. Of course, it is not just the natural beauty but also the kindhearted people residing there that make North East India an amazing destination to explore.

Willong Khullen

We backpacked across Nagaland, Manipur & Meghalaya cherishing each of the 53 days stay here. North East India gave us quite a few unforgettable experiences of a life time. Doyang, a tiny village in Nagaland, home to migratory birds- Amur Falcon, gave us a chance to drift into deep wilderness and we saw the great migration of millions of Amur Falcons. With the orange sun setting behind the hills we saw these amazing birds take over the entire sky.

Millions Of Amur Falcons 

Another memorable experience from the trip was heading to Longwa village in search of  Konyak tribesmen who were headhunters and are famous for their tattooed faces. Over bonfire we heard gripping tales from the last remaining headhunters while they smoked up opium.

Konyak Tribesmen

In Manipur, we went canoeing in  Loktak, the largest freshwater lake in North East which is known for the phumdis. Loktak is also home to the only floating National Park in the World, 'Keibul Lamjo' where we went in quest of the shy and rare dancing deer 'Sangai.' Another hidden treasure of Manipur is our very own 'Stonehenge' - Willong Khullen.

Only Floating National Park In The World

The tiny town of Dawki at India Bangla border opened up absolutely crystal clear blue waters and from the boat we could see the 'Unmagot' river bed and marine life. Mawlynnong village in Meghalaya is where we spent days strolling around and belting traditional Khasi food. This village was awarded the title "The cleanest village of Asia" by the travel magazine Discover India in 2003.

Magical Dawki

Cleanest Village In Asia

Cherrapunjee, one of the wettest place on the planet, gave us amazing views of some incredible waterfalls and an insight into hundreds of monoliths in 'Nartiang.'

Nohkalikai Waterfalls

We trekked an entire day to see the bio-engineering wonder of the world- "The Double Decker Living Root Bridge." The trek of over 3000 steps for over 4 hours to reach this wonder was a mind boggling experience and we were also very fortunate to experience the rare phenomena of how locals grow these living root bridges.

The Double Decker Living Root Bridge

A little further from the Double Decker Bridge and we reached stunning natural swimming pools of "Nongriat" Village that will forever be edged in our memories. The crystal clear turquoise blue water was so clean and clear that fishermen find it difficult to catch fish. These magical isolated places made us realize that Nature has so many hidden treasures to offer mankind if only we have the eye to observe.

North East being termed the Land Of Festivals is no mere understatement. During our stay, we attended three elaborate festivals that ran for days showcasing their indigenous games, culture, art, music, warfare, legacy, traditions and history. The festivals were a one stop shop for us to experience the culture of several tribes that have been living in this region since time immemorial.

War Scenes From Hornbill Festival

We experienced great hospitality from the locals, soaked ourselves in tribal traditions, were part of their festivals and celebrated it like ours. Many a homes generously opened their doors and hearts for us. In true village style, we traversed the country roads with friendly villagers, sharing seats with livestock and baskets of vegetables and fruits while gunny bags and bamboo cushioned our feet.

Traveling With Locals, Like A Local

We got a chance to experience local flavors and try authentic tribal food accompanied with homemade alcoholic beverages that kept us warm and tipsy. Almost every house had a garden and they grow their own fruits and vegetables even breeding their own livestock, living a very organic and healthy lifestyle. They love having nursery outside their homes and have a thing for decoration. The houses painted with vibrant colors were a treat for our eyes. Our stay in thatched huts and homes built with bamboo were one of the best travel experiences.

Authentic Manipuri Thali

Reaching remote parts of North East could be pretty difficult due to terrible road conditions or the roads could be good but with no public transport and even locals would have to accommodate themselves in a single jeep that plies on a daily basis to the nearest city. The challenge in accessing these places could be considered a blessing in disguise as even after several years the beauty still remains intact.

Their obsession with Sports is very promising. Their love for Football is evident by the sheer number of football fields that you can spot even in remote villages and these grounds just don't seem to exist, they are pretty much in use and you can see them play a game daily. And if you thought it is only Football that have them occupied, you are wrong, It were the people of North East who introduced to the world the game of Polo and now proudly host annual international tournaments.

Capt Kenguruse Memorial Tournament 

International Annual Polo Tournament, Manipur

People here are very warm, friendly and interested in having lengthy conversations despite language barrier and genuinely want to know our likes, dislikes, lifestyle choices et al. The life here in North East India is very relaxed and chilled out. Though people seem to have less they are a very happy lot. They are extremely proud of their tribes culture and wear it on their sleeves. The sheer number of folks both young and old who to-date adorn their traditional attire on a day to day basis is a startling testimony to the fact that they are so proud of their lineage.

Lotha Tribesman

Religion plays an integral part in their lives and you can see them dressed in their best on Sundays all set to go to church. Though Christianity has taken over, the age old traditions and festivals are kept very much alive. The artifacts from ancient times take centre stage in all the households that we stepped into. They are fashion conscious as well, setting new trends and love shopping. Women seem to enjoy a lot of freedom. They are working for their community and willing to bring about a change. Not just waiting for the government to do things or complain but actually working on improving things on their own.

The people are not just friendly but very welcoming too. Among the very few tourists to attend Tokhu Emong Festival in Wokha district, we were welcomed with open arms and were invited to their community celebration and were treated with royalty. Our visit to Doyang was made possible all thanks to these kind and wonderful friends we made in Wokha.

One night we lost way to our hotel in Kohima, a kind family not only offered to drop us but also treated us to one elaborate dinner at their home the next day. During our stay in Mawlynnong, where one of us suffered from a sore throat, the old and kind couple running the homestay nursed us and took care of us like their own kids. All these instances moved us beyond words and we were filled with immense respect and gratitude for having the opportunity to meet these people.

Eco Friendly Huts

Northeasterners are well read and show a keen interest in what is happening in other states. Be it politics or some natural disaster, their concern is genuine and it is such a shame that most of us
cannot even locate where a place from North East is on the map.

It is disheartening that many of our Countrymen call them names and are racially profiled. A geographical area that is very much a part of India is neglected. We Indians are the biggest racists and hypocrites who disrespect people from other parts of our country but when the same treatment is meted out outside India we cry wolf.

Amidst all this calm and beauty there is a bit of chaos and unrest. We were shocked and overwhelmed to see multiple massive Army carcade comprising of many jeeps mounted with automated weapons manned by bunch of smart, fit and able men and women of the Indian Army. They were completely covered from head to toe, we couldn't even see their eyes. We understood how lethal and professional our Army could be, tirelessly working to keep our Nation's interests and borders safe from internal and external threats. However, unfortunately events like Malom massacre have also happened under the Army's watch.

Memorial At Malom Bus Stop

Whatever demands or needs both sides have, it would be best to drop weapons and find solutions to all problems through constructive dialogues and lay foundation for real development that would benefit the future generations of our Country.

This trip taught us to quit the habit of surrendering ourselves to commercialization and make memories and experiences rather than collect materialistic things. It also taught us to introspect on how we have done some irreparable damage to Nature and have been living surrounded by toxic environment, processed and contaminated food and plastic people. We really need to get back to our roots, start respecting Nature, consume healthy and chemical free food, breathe fresh air without the help of filtering masks. We have to be very thankful and content with what we have.

"You Only Live Once But If You Do It Right, Once Is Enough."