Courtallam Natures Own Water Spa

Courtallam, a tiny town in Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu, is blessed with abundant natural beauty and offers the best waterfall experience in India. There are several waterfalls spread across this town where people could experience one of the best gifts nature has to offer mankind. The icy cold water crosses huge forests before cascading down and is believed to  have therapeutic properties as the forests are known for their medicinal herbs. This otherwise quiet town comes to life with the onset of Southwest Monsoon, and one can experience the periodic drizzle, cool breeze, waterfalls in full throttle and views of beautiful mountains in the backdrop making this places a wonderland.

The feel of taking bath in a natural waterfalls is rejuvenating. The gushing water descends from several feet above breaks at several rocks and then separates into different streams reducing the flow and comes crashing down on us, it is definitely once in a lifetime experience. It can easily outrun any of the luxurious and excellent spa treatments. The wonders of Mother Nature are so tough to put in words. The main falls of Courtallam is a three tier massive water body towering several feet high.

If you are a first time visitor here, the gigantic waterfalls and crowd could easily freak you out but please do shed all your inhibitions, conquer your phobias and once you stand at the rocks where the waterfall breaks you are guaranteed to fall in love with this place. Initially the threshold is a couple of minutes and the more you enjoy the feel of ice cold water hitting you on your back and shoulders, the longer you would want to stand under these majestic falls. Rightly so, it is called the Spa of South India. Courtallam has its own charm and is kind of addictive in a positive way.

 The waterfalls are open 24 hours and attracts hordes of people, all the waterfalls are divided into designated men and women sections. There is a designated area for women to change. Even late in the night, the waterfalls are open for people to take bath and it looks like day time with several shops doing brisk business.  Late in the night, you see vendors selling steaming hot herbal tea locally known as "Chukku Kapi," it is very good for health and feels excellent after a cold bath. Several hotels serve piping hot food throughout the night. The cycle of life in Courtallam goes like - Wake up- Eat- take Bath for long hours- Eat- Sleep- Repeat. Life rolls by very slowly, the surroundings are so calm and serene with nature at its best.

En-route to the falls are several shops that sell hot and cold beverages, seasonal fruits, plenty of snacks and abundant toys for kids. Courtallam is known for its exotic fruits such as Mangosteen. They definitely are the sweetest and taste heavenly. Early morning and late night are perfect time to visit the falls and enjoy the serenity of the place. During season time, which is from July to September, the climate is excellent.

There is high presence of law enforcement personnel, strict laws are implemented so that tourists can have a peaceful and joyful time at the waterfalls. There are no storage units to keep valuables or cash so it would be better to carry very minimal stuff such as a towel and cash in a plastic zip lock bag. Using soap, shampoo, oil, detergents is a strict no no and violators face hefty fines.

Another striking feature of the waterfalls is that there are carvings of many Shivlingas on the rocks where the water falls with full flow. Very close to the waterfalls is an ancient temple Kutralanathar temple dedicated to lord Shiva. This beautiful temple has excellent carvings and several few thousand year old idols. The view of the falls from the temple and the thundering sound of water crashing on rocks is a phenomenal experience. Within the same compound is a jack fruit tree that is believed to be as old as the temple. You can see a demarcation on the walls with different shades and this shows how high the water level rose when several years ago massive floods engulfed this temple. The temple is open from 4 am to 12 pm and 4 pm to 6 pm.

A couple of kilometers from Courtallam is the Kashi Vishvanathar Temple in Tenkasi which is considered as the Kashi of Southern India. The highlight of this temple is its magnificent Gopuram. The brightly colored colossal monument towers 180 feet high adorned with excellent carvings. This  temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and many Hindu mythological creatures take center stage here. This temple is famous for its massive monolithic avatars depicted in stone and as you enter the main sanctum you are greeted by massive monolithic carvings on either sides the temple, an ingenious construction dating several thousand years ago. The beauty was not limited only to sculptures, they beautified even the minutest things such as the water drain channels that captures your attention and you tend to forget the purpose that it serves. The water management system is ingenious and works fine till date. This talks a lot about their dedication there was no room for concentrating only on the important features, every part of the temple was given equal importance.

To ensure that the temple was lit with natural light at all times of the day, the temple was constructed in such a way that they left openings in the ceilings for natural light to seep in and fill the temple with a beautiful golden light and bright up the entire temple. The walls of the temple have ancient inscriptions carved so that several generations can read and gain knowledge. A phenomenal feature of this temples is the cool breeze that constantly flows and pushes one in the direction of the temple. This phenomenal super natural effect can be experienced under the massive Gopuram as one enters the temple. The temple is open on all days from 4 am to 12 pm and from 4 om to 9 pm.

Down south India is known for its passion and love for food. By far, the best South Indian Non Vegetarian meal that we had was at "Koorai Kadai" hotel in Tenkasi. This humble restaurant attracts hordes of food lovers from across the country as it serves an extensive variety of non vegetarian delicacies, all cooked to great perfection. It was here that we tried for the first time, the dry fish curry 'Karuvadu Kulambu'  and it was excellent. Had we not been told it was dry fish, we would have never guessed as it was not tangy but spicy and filled with flavors. It is not just the non vegetarian food, but even the simplest food that was exceptional such as rasam which had the perfect amount of pepper and flavors of various other spices. Their  'Kola Urundai' or minced mutton cutlet is a sensational delicacy and a must try. This beautiful little ball of joy is only 10 bucks. Their service is also excellent for a place that is this famous and the owner, a kind old humble man, took out time to show his gratitude to our compliments. The pricing of their food is unbelievably inexpensive.

Another gem of an eat out around Courtallam is 'Rahmat Parota Stall' in Sengottai 6 km from Courtallam. This place also known as 'Border Kadai' is a local superstar. This road side food joint gives a feel of a dhabha and like the name suggests it serves excellent parota, an Indian bread. It is famous for amazing and spicy pepper 'Natu Koli' or country chicken, the burst of flavors in your mouth and the tender, juicy chicken will make you crave for more. The only place maybe where country chicken can easily pass off as broiler chicken. The parotas are soft, small and melt in your mouth and the non vegetarian curry or "Salana" along with parotas is the reason why this place is always crowded. It is intriguing as well as very exciting to see close to 7 people work in tandem to prepare parotas on a massive scale. They use a huge tawa and in one shot over 80 parotas are cooked. There are plenty of autos that ply throughout the day till late in the night to Tenkasi and Sengotai from Courtallam. Private and state run buses also ply between these destinations.

Courtallam is easily accessible by road and rail. The nearest railway station is Tenkasi and from here autos would be the best way to reach Courtallam which is 8 km away. The nearest airport is in Tuticorin. Madurai is also an option, and there are plenty of trains that ply between Madurai and Tenkasi. A distance of 150 km can be covered in 3 hours. The best part would be to take an early morning train and throughout the journey you can spot peacocks dancing in the massive fields and welcoming the early morning sunshine. It is quiet a sight if you love birds. Also, you can spot the massive Goparum of the famous Srirangapatnam Temple from the train tracks itself. If you do have the time, it would be a good idea to include this place as well in your itinerary. There are plenty of stay options in Courtallam catering to all budgets.

Alleppey A Floating Paradise!

The placid canals and backwaters, massive amount of palm and coconut trees dotted along the backwaters, traditional homes, rich green paddy fields and banana plantations aptly defines what natural beauty is. Kerala is the perfect place to unwind while sipping coconut water and gorging on excellent sea food. Of course a mere mention of Kerala and the first thought that crosses our minds are the houseboats giving you a glimpse of Punammada Lake.

The houseboats on Punnamada lake, which is a part of the longest lake in India- Vembanad, are a pretty sight adding a lot of charm to Alleppey, no wonder it has been named, Venice of  the East. These traditional looking massive built house boats that are in abundance provide all the creature comforts in a luxurious way and complete the whole Kerala Backwater experience making it a pretty sight but cliche. But this most often chosen option of enjoying the Kerala life comes with its own hindrances or loopholes- Traffic jams due to their sheer numbers, docking the boats all of them cramped together at one place at night, limited movement which means less exploration and the food options are not much.

We thought instead of opting for a houseboat it would be best to travel like the locals and take a ferry ride to catch a glimpse of their daily routine. The ferry ride helped us understand how on a daily basis it positively touches millions of lives. We passed through villages that had no roads, saw multiple small channels breaking from the massive backwaters and leading to even smaller and more beautiful villages. Some of these channels were so narrow that they could only be accessed by canoes.

The journey offers breathtaking views of paddy fields, the beautifully scattered churches and schools, the iconic post office and in a true sense we understood how massive and beautiful the backwaters of Kerala are.

It was an awesome sight to see the massive ferry stop on either sides of the banks for locals to alienate and reach their homes. The ferry definitely rules the waters here and it pretty much reminds you of the bus journeys on the road with so many left and right turns combined with a couple of U turns. The ferry clearly wins over the buses as they do not have to face traffic jams, it is an absolute free way! To our astonishment this mighty vessel managed to venture into small and narrow canals with as much ease as a small canoe would have.

Also, from the ferry you can witness various birds from egrets, cormorants to kingfishers busy hunting for fish and some even gracing your camera by posing for photos. We even saw an eagle resting on the compound wall of one of the houses in a village totally comfortable with so much activity around and completely at peace, making us realize once again how awesome and beautiful nature is. She feeds us when we are hungry, quenches our thirst, helps us travel. The least that we should give back is the respect that she deserves.

Since we were in Alleppey to attend the most awaited event of the year- the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, we got excited to see multiple teams prepare for the boat race set to happen the following day. The serene and calm town of Alleppey completely transforms and gives a feel that you are on the sets of action flick 'Fast And Furious.' Every year on the second Saturday of August, the government of Kerala conducts the prestigious 'Nehru Boat Race Festival.' We would definitely rate witnessing the teams sweat it out and practice as the highlight of the ferry ride.

This whole awesome package of a two and a half hour ferry ride with the locals from Alleppey town jetty to Pullicunno church came at an all inclusive price of  INR 15 per person.

We were left speechless when we saw the church on the banks of the water providing a picturesque view. This church with its Portuguese style architecture shot to fame thanks to the Tamil movie "Vinnaithaandi Varuvaayaa," parts of which were shot in this beautiful church. The church was so peaceful and we were the only visitors, it has a calming aura around it that makes you fall in love with this place almost instantly. We decided to get back by bus and it took us only 40 minutes to reach Alleppey town. If you are short on time or do not wish to take the local ferry there are frequent local buses that ply from Alleppey town to Ramankary with tickets priced at INR 22 per person and as always you have the luxury to hire a cab too.

The best way to explore any place is take a stroll around and you never know what might catch your attention. While walking towards the beach, we came across these beautiful bridges and canals that made us stop and appreciate the beauty all around us.

Alleppey Beach, a beautiful stretch of white sand and deep blue waters, is an ideal destination to watch the sun set in the horizon. It is not way too crowded giving ample space for an evening stroll. Kids and adults can enjoy camel ride and there are couple of eat outs to treat your taste buds. The hot fried peanuts and the view of the sunset makes one's life just perfect, indeed, small things in life give such great pleasure.

The Alleppey lighthouse is also worth visiting. We got to experience Kerala monsoons when we were at the lighthouse. It was a perfect moment with the panoramic view of the massive beach and rail tracks, the thunder of the clouds followed by mighty downpour. Note that the lighthouse is closed on Mondays.

Our enthusiasm to try out Kerala's authentic food had us all pumped up and we were not disappointed at all. Kerala's authentic food will satisfy even the best of food critics. There are plenty of restaurants to dig into for authentic Kerala cuisine and the meals includes Fish gravy, traditional fat red/white rice, two varieties of vegetable curry, sambar/rasam, Morekolambu, buttermilk, pickle, papadam and sweet. The best restaurants to try out the meals in Alleppey are 'Thaff' and 'Brothers.' In Thaff, do try out the chilly fish fry and the parota with chicken curry. If you are uncomfortable with the traditional fat Kerala rice do enquire if the hotel serves the normal thin rice.

For other delicacies like appam or parota, puttu, kadala curry, chicken curry, 'Creme Corner' restaurant is an ideal choice. The perfect way to finish your lunch or dinner would be with piping hot cup of 'Kattan Chai.' If you love sandwiches and puffs  head to 'Himalaya Bakers' that serves a wide variety of baked goodies and cookies to choose from.

The ideal way to commute within Alleppey would be by autos. The auto drivers were such gentlemen, they did not over charge us even once nor did they refuse to go to any part of the town. This was so much in contrast compared to other touristic destinations where they tend to burn a hole in your wallet.

We were fortunate to have the luxury of viewing lotus flowers in a small artificial pond right in front of our sit out bloom to the early morning sun rays. At the same time, we witnessed a darter dip and swim in the pond, and then bask in sun, providing company to the kingfishers perched on the palm trees making it one of the most beautiful mornings. This blissful experience was possible at  the 'Palmgrove Lake Resort.'

Set on the banks of Punnamada lake, this resort has great aesthetics with comfortable and cozy rooms. They offer 24 hour running hot water and free WiFi. Their service was top-notch. Though we did not try the food at their restaurant, we did go for a cup of Kattan Chai which was excellent. The flip side of this beautiful location was that we had to spend a little more to commute.

Matheran- A Perfect Monsoon Destination

Monsoons are the most cherished of all seasons with feelings of joy, romance, fun and awakening of a child within each of us. The pitter patter of rain drops, smell of earth, makes you crave for a hot cup of tea, a book in your lap instead of gadgets and getting drenched in rain, rejoicing the moment and forgetting all your worries.

If there is a place to experience sizzling monsoon in India, it is Matheran. This Eco friendly hill station has successfully managed an unimaginable feat by banning automobiles and it was only in the recent past that an ambulance was introduced. This summer retreat of the British era literally means "Forest on the forehead."

Since it is a vehicle free zone, at Dasuri, starting point of the hill station, one needs to park their vehicle if they are on a road trip. From Dasuri, a couple of hundred meters walk and you reach Aman Lodge. There are four options from Aman Lodge to reach Matheran- toy train, trek, horse back or hand pulled rickshaw. We highly recommend the Toy train- chugging on the tracks at its own pace, criss-crossing mountains offering spectacular views of green hills, it would be a 20 minute breathtaking joy ride. Choosing to trek is also a welcome option and would take close to 2 hours but the sights are worth the effort.

The trekpaths are the best way to explore this place, it gives you a feel of an explorer out in the jungle which is thrilling and exciting to say the least. A cup of chai, munching on garam garam bhutta and nature for company minus pollution makes life awesome. The occasional drizzle and thunder showers makes the moment romantic. The rains, green natural archways on red sand, fresh breeze, mist, and view of the waterfalls and valleys is something that makes this a vacation of a lifetime. This is the best way to rejuvenate by disconnecting with technology and connecting with yourself and your loved ones.

Though Matheran is the tiniest hill station in India, it still gives the other much hyped and commercialized hill stations run for their money. There are over 30 scintillating view points spread across 3 sq mile. Each view point has its own beauty with some offering captivating views of the deep gorges. For the adventurous soul, zippling allows you to reach the top of another hill in a matter of seconds passing through clouds making you feel like you have super powers.

And do not be surprised if you are accompanied by the most adorable and well behaved dogs tagging along and guiding you all the way. Yes, you would make some new friends and these little guys nudge you to climb up a few rocks for better views of the valley :) Without their help it might be impossible to find these hidden treasures offering stellar views.

The rest of the points offer great view of the waterfalls and the lake. Once you cross the path around the lake you reach Cecilia Point. Here, do stand on the rocks at the far end and feel the mist of waterfall all over. The wind blows with so much force that the water defies all laws of gravity, splashing you wet from head to toe. This feeling could only be experienced.

Matheran is a great place for trekkers as well, there are way too many mountains to hike and the feeling of accomplishment at the end of the hike fills you with pride. At lion's head point, the wind speeds gain massive momentum that they almost drag you along to the bottom of these magnificent valleys.

For a place that is vehicle free, it would be good idea to try and have as many signages as possible so that while walking along the trek-path people do not get lost. At every fork, we could see a bunch of people looking confused and not knowing which road to take. Of course, we took the one that was less traveled but on a serious note signages would be beneficial to avoid getting lost or walking miles in circles.

Also, do check out their Post Office, the most undermined department that has never received its share of due credit. At this modern age of digital era, we would never be able to truly appreciate their services. It is the only department to successfully reach the length and breadth of India. For ages this department has tirelessly carried messages fighting harsh climates, political turmoil, storms, riots and at times even bullets. Mighty Respect for this department and we would like to extend a huge thank you and gratitude for their services.

It is pretty easy to reach Matheran, Neral town is very well connected by train and road from Mumbai and Pune. We took a train to Neral junction from Mumbai and a quick shared taxi ride (INR 70 per person) took us to Dasuri town. On reaching Dasuri town one has entered Eco sensitive zone of Matheran. Capitation tax of Rs 50 is collected here and once past the booking office we were greeted by langurs, birds, pleasant & unpolluted cool breeze. It is fascinating to see an entire hill station in the 21st century without tarmac. The red sand adds so much life and charm to the surroundings.

If you plan to trek Matheran, set aside 3 days to cover all views points leisurely. One can also hire horse to visit the view points. In this case a 2 day trip is ideal. If you are a couple do carry an umbrella and when it pours step out for a romantic walk.

There are way too many stay options in Matheran. Radha cottage is a perfect resort in every possible parameter and is a 15 min walk from Matheran Railway station. This huge property is tucked away in a quite corner and almost all view points are accessible easily by walk. The best part about the cottage is the lush green around. And when it rains it takes the look and feel to a whole new level. The cottage serves lip smacking vegetarian & non-vegetarian Maharashtrian food and the variety they offer is rich. We stayed for 3 nights and not once did they repeat any dish which seems a pretty common thing with resorts. Their desserts are to die for. Their service is par excellence, the staff are courteous and very well behaved. They pay personal attention to all guests requests. The cottage also has TV and WiFi for those who cannot survive without technology, we did not connect to WiFi as virtual life can wait.

When in Matheran do taste honey & chikki. Another thing that stands out in Matheran is the street art focusing on Global warming and pollution. Matheran town is painted beautifully by moss in bright green that feels like velvet. At times mist seems to engulf the entire valley. The graffiti on the wall talks a lot about their interest in art and how they use art to drive down strong messages.

Matheran itinerary one- Radha cottage - Race Course - St. Xavier's school- Belvedere Point- One Tree Hill- Chowk Point- Rambaug- Alexander Point. This will take any where between 2 to 3 hours.

Itinerary two- Radha Cottage- Charlotte lake- Shiv Temple- Lord Point- Cecil Point- King George Point- Edward Point- Echo Point- Louisa Point- Malang Point- Coronation Point- Porcupine Point & Reach Radha via market.

A good pair of trek shoes are a must, rain gear & torch goes without saying.

Paro Valley The Place To Be For An Idyllic & Romantic Trip

The majestic Dzong or Monastery perched high on a hill, the river kissing the shore and the blue sky with white clouds scattered around, time definitely had come to a standstill with nothing but nature around and tales of history urging to be heard. These are the memories that leave an everlasting impression and it is this natural beauty that automatically calms you down, making you forget your worries and be content and filled with gratitude for having witnessed this moment. And to make this memory further more romantic, we noticed an old couple sitting right next to us clicking pictures and giggling away to glory while their eyes speaking volumes, if this doesn't define romance, there is nothing else that could. Happy and content with their memories and a childlike smile on their faces, they walked away but not before the man winked at us confirming that love is not age bound. Yes, this would definitely be one memory that would flash our minds minutes before resting in peace.

Paro valley is best explored on foot. Though lesser populated than Thimphu, Paro is more famous globally due to the imposing Tiger Nest Monastery. If Thimphu is calm and quite, Paro is serene. While heading to the most iconic place in Bhutan- Paro valley leaving the capital city of Thimphu behind, we were excited as this tiny town serves as the perfect retreat. The river that runs through the town, the beautiful and colorful trees, pristine valleys, the magnanimous Dzongs & monasteries make Paro picture perfect.

Paro/Rinpung Dzong: Also known as the "Fortress on the heap of jewels," it was built in the 15th century but was destroyed by fire in 1907. Built again using traditional methods i.e. no nails and bolts it stands as a fine example of Bhutanese architecture. This massive fortress now serves as an administrative office and is open for public viewing. The monastery can be reached either by a fleet of steep rock cut steps or an inclined and smooth pathway. After the tiring hike we climbed down and sat by the Paro river that made our evening idyllic & romantic.

One of the reasons why Bhutan is famous and most people visit Paro is to hike up Taksang Monastery. The dramatic monastery built 3000 m above sea level embracing a cliff  is nothing less than any wonder. Legend has it that Guru Padmasambhava flew here on a tigress from Tibet and meditated here in a cave for three months. Hence, it is known as Tiger's Nest Monastery. To give full justice to the monastery, we will be dedicating an exclusive post for Tiger Nest.

A few kilometers away from Paro town is the Paro National Museum, built as a watchtower to protect Paro Dzong in 1651, it was converted to a museum in 1965. This museum stands as another sign of the good relationship that India and Bhutan share. This museum was funded by the Indian government and one of the relics 'A double Barrel Gun' was gifted by Pundit Nehru to the Royal family. The museum is a must visit as it speaks volumes about the Bhutanese culture, history, wildlife & much more and houses more than 3000 pieces of artwork with a culture spanning over 1500 years. The first two halls of the museum are dedicated to Bhutanese culture exhibiting the different kinds of masks & Thankas (Buddhist paintings.) They exclusively showcase the rich tradition and culture of Bhutan. The other galleries proudly showcase the varied wildlife that exist in Bhutan ranging from their National animal 'Takin,' Snow/clouded leopard, gharial, bird species, butterflies etc. The museum has state of the art technology where visitors can watch documentaries to learn more about Bhutan culture. Any kind of photography is strictly prohibited inside the museum.

While in Bhutan it is a must to treat your taste buds with the Bhutanese cuisine, especially Mushroom Datshi, a dish with mushrooms and lot of green chillies in a cheese sauce and Chicken Paa that may include radish but nonetheless tastes spicy and excellent. Bhutanese food is way too spicy as chillies seem to be their main ingredient so do specify to add less chillies. Their butter salt tea is a must try and is an acquired taste but something very unique.

Paro offers some great restaurants and cafes, our favorite was the 'Champaca Cafe' as they serve lip smacking pastries, sandwiches & beverages. The people who run the Cafe are very kind, helpful and very cheerful with great aesthetic sense that reflects in the decor of their cafe. It is a perfect place to regain all the calories burnt while hiking to the Tiger's Nest and unwind in the evening with a nice ambience, coffee in your hand, sinful pastries to gorge on and watch the town carry on with their daily activities.

The nights provide a different picture- the sky dazzling with stars, the stream gushing down and crickets singing their tunes and the cold wind blowing across hypnotizing you and the drowsy eyes flicker and shut down with a smile plastered on the lips.

Bhutan is the place where we saw giant phalluses being sold as souvenirs and the phallic symbols are painted on the walls of homes & Dzongs as Bhutanese people believe it would wade off evil spirits and is considered as a sign of fertility. Do not be surprised if you come across small wooden phalluses hanging on doors of homes and shops. There are plenty of souvenir shops around that would help you choose a perfect memento as a mark of remembrance.

As if Tiger's Nest was not enough, there are few more monasteries that you might encounter in Paro valley that will make you wonder, how on earth did they manage to reach that high, forget building a monastery. Some things are best when left unexplained.

Not just the finished monuments, but ruins too are a sight to behold. These ruins capture your attention right on the highway.

Another interesting fact about Paro is its small airport with one runway, we literally rode our bike parallel to the runway. Interesting thing is guards stop traffic on the road in the event of a flight taking off or landing giving one a great view of the aircraft's belly. As luck would have it, on the last day when we were leaving from Paro we saw a Druk aircraft just mere meters away from us fly over our head and touch down at the airport.

We checked into hotel Sonam Trophel, a fantastic budget hotel with great service. Their management is very helpful and the hotel offers WiFi and the food is good and tastes pretty much like home cooked food.

We finally wrapped up our adventurous road trip lasting around 50 days covering 4269 km across the picturesque landscapes of Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. We bid adieu to the mountains and head back home.

"Do not be sad its Over, be glad it happened."